Free API
8.4L V10RWDMANUALgas
Founding sponsor spot is openYour name on every procedure for this vehicle, permanently.Sponsor — $99 →
suspension

Knuckle/Spindle - Rear

for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.8 h
Tools
11
Steps
17
Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

Complete removal and replacement of the rear wheel spindle/knuckle assembly on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including hub, bearing, and suspension component disconnect.

Warnings

⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands at all times. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
Rear axle nut is torqued to very high specification and may require significant force to loosen. Ensure vehicle is stable before applying force.
Suspension components are under tension and may move when disconnected. Keep hands and body clear of pinch points.
ℹ️Mark component orientation before removal to aid in proper reassembly alignment.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
  3. Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points
  4. Remove rear wheel and tire assembly
  5. Spray all suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove rear axle nut
    With vehicle on jack stands and parking brake engaged, use a breaker bar and appropriate socket to remove the center axle nut securing the halfshaft to the hub. This nut has very high torque and may require significant force. Have an assistant apply brake pedal or use a pry bar against wheel studs to prevent hub rotation while loosening.
  2. 2
    Disconnect brake caliper
    Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts securing the rear brake caliper to the knuckle. Support the caliper with wire or a bungee cord to prevent stress on the brake hose. Do not allow caliper to hang by the brake line.
  3. 3
    Remove brake rotor
    If rotor is retained by small retaining screws, remove them. Slide the brake rotor off the hub. If rotor is seized, use a rubber mallet to tap around the back side to break it free. Do not strike the rotor face.
  4. 4
    Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensor
    The 2008 Dodge Viper is not equipped with ABS from the factory, so there is typically no wheel speed sensor at the rear knuckle. If your vehicle has been retrofitted with a sensor, disconnect the electrical connector, remove the sensor mounting fastener, and carefully extract the sensor from the knuckle, noting its orientation and routing for reinstallation. Otherwise, skip this step.
  5. 5
    Disconnect lower control arm ball joint
    Remove the fastener securing the lower control arm connection to the knuckle (verify whether this is a castle nut with cotter pin or a through-bolt/nut for this suspension design; remove the cotter pin first if present). Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to break the taper joint if applicable. Apply force carefully to avoid damaging the knuckle or control arm. Once separated, support the lower control arm to prevent it from dropping.
  6. 6
    Disconnect upper control arm or camber link
    Locate the upper attachment point where the knuckle connects to the upper control arm or camber link. Remove the fastener(s) securing this connection. This may be a pinch bolt, through bolt, or ball joint depending on exact suspension design. Use a ball joint separator if applicable. Mark the orientation of any eccentric bolts or adjustment cams before removal for alignment reference.
  7. 7
    Disconnect tie rod end
    Remove the fastener from the rear toe/tie rod link at the knuckle (verify whether it uses a castle nut with cotter pin; remove the cotter pin first if present). Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the taper from the knuckle if applicable. Note the thread engagement depth for approximate reinstallation position.
  8. 8
    Disconnect shock absorber lower mount
    Remove the fastener securing the shock absorber lower mount to the knuckle or spindle assembly. This is typically a large bolt or through-bolt with nut. Support the shock to prevent it from extending fully once disconnected.
  9. 9
    Remove halfshaft from hub
    With all suspension components disconnected, pull the knuckle assembly outward away from the vehicle to disengage the halfshaft splines from the hub. The halfshaft may require tapping with a brass drift or rubber mallet from behind to break it free from the hub bore. Be careful not to damage the CV joint or allow the halfshaft to drop.
  10. 10
    Remove knuckle assembly
    With all connections separated and halfshaft clear, maneuver the knuckle assembly away from the vehicle. Check that no electrical connectors, brake lines, or other components are still attached. The hub and bearing are typically integrated with the knuckle on this platform.
  11. 11
    Inspect and clean mating surfaces
    Inspect all ball joint tapers, bolt holes, and mating surfaces on the control arms, tie rod, and shock mount for damage, corrosion, or wear. Wire brush all mounting surfaces and threads. Inspect the halfshaft splines for damage or excessive wear. Clean the hub bore area on the new knuckle if necessary.
  12. 12
    Install new knuckle assembly
    Position the new knuckle assembly into place. Align the hub bore with the halfshaft splines and slide the knuckle onto the halfshaft, ensuring full engagement of the splines. Thread the axle nut onto the halfshaft by hand to hold the assembly in position, but do not torque yet.
  13. 13
    Reconnect suspension components
    Reconnect the shock absorber lower mount, upper control arm or camber link, lower control arm ball joint, and tie rod end to the knuckle. Install all fasteners hand-tight initially. For ball joints, ensure the taper seats properly and install new castle nuts and cotter pins. Apply thread locker to fasteners as specified by manufacturer. Align any eccentric bolts or adjustment cams to their marked positions.
  14. 14
    Torque all suspension fasteners
    Torque all suspension fasteners to manufacturer specification in the following general order: upper control arm/camber link connection, lower ball joint castle nut (torque to specification then advance to next cotter pin slot), tie rod end castle nut (torque to specification then advance to next cotter pin slot), shock absorber lower mount bolt. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands so the suspension is at ride height before final torquing to avoid preloading bushings.
  15. 15
    Install ABS sensor and brake components
    If a wheel speed sensor was removed (non-factory equipment), reinstall it into the knuckle bore, torque the mounting fastener to specification, and reconnect the electrical connector; do not apply anti-seize to the sensor tip. Install the brake rotor onto the hub. Position the brake caliper over the rotor and install the caliper mounting bolts, torquing to specification.
  16. 16
    Torque axle nut
    With all components installed, torque the rear axle nut to the factory-documented specification (verify exact value in the FSM before applying — do not guess). Have an assistant apply the brake pedal to prevent hub rotation while torquing. Stake or install cotter pin if applicable to this axle nut design.
  17. 17
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Install the wheel and tire assembly. Thread lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque lug nuts to the factory-specified value (verify in the FSM before applying) in a star pattern.

Reassembly

  1. All fasteners must be torqued to manufacturer specifications with suspension at ride height to avoid bushing preload
  2. Use new castle nuts and cotter pins for all ball joint connections
  3. Apply medium-strength thread locker to suspension fasteners per manufacturer specification
  4. Verify ABS sensor connector is fully seated and secured

Verification

  • Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no abnormal noises from rear suspension
  • Check for proper wheel alignment and vehicle tracking
  • Verify ABS system operates without warning lights
  • Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles
  • Have four-wheel alignment performed by qualified technician as suspension geometry has been disturbed
🔧Stuck on this knuckle/spindle - rear? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Dodge within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Built by master technician Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2017 Dodge Viper repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Dodge Viper — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →