suspension
Knuckle/Spindle - Rear
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.8 h
Tools
11
Steps
17
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Complete removal and replacement of the rear wheel spindle/knuckle assembly on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including hub, bearing, and suspension component disconnect.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands at all times. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
⚠Rear axle nut is torqued to very high specification and may require significant force to loosen. Ensure vehicle is stable before applying force.
⚠Suspension components are under tension and may move when disconnected. Keep hands and body clear of pinch points.
ℹ️Mark component orientation before removal to aid in proper reassembly alignment.
Tools required
Torque wrench (50-250 ft-lb range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Thread locker (medium strength)Essential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Rear spindle/knuckle assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Axle nut (if reusing is not recommended) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points
- Remove rear wheel and tire assembly
- Spray all suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak
Procedure
- 1Remove rear axle nutWith vehicle on jack stands and parking brake engaged, use a breaker bar and appropriate socket to remove the center axle nut securing the halfshaft to the hub. This nut has very high torque and may require significant force. Have an assistant apply brake pedal or use a pry bar against wheel studs to prevent hub rotation while loosening.
- 2Disconnect brake caliperRemove the 2 caliper mounting bolts securing the rear brake caliper to the knuckle. Support the caliper with wire or a bungee cord to prevent stress on the brake hose. Do not allow caliper to hang by the brake line.
- 3Remove brake rotorIf rotor is retained by small retaining screws, remove them. Slide the brake rotor off the hub. If rotor is seized, use a rubber mallet to tap around the back side to break it free. Do not strike the rotor face.
- 4Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensorThe 2008 Dodge Viper is not equipped with ABS from the factory, so there is typically no wheel speed sensor at the rear knuckle. If your vehicle has been retrofitted with a sensor, disconnect the electrical connector, remove the sensor mounting fastener, and carefully extract the sensor from the knuckle, noting its orientation and routing for reinstallation. Otherwise, skip this step.
- 5Disconnect lower control arm ball jointRemove the fastener securing the lower control arm connection to the knuckle (verify whether this is a castle nut with cotter pin or a through-bolt/nut for this suspension design; remove the cotter pin first if present). Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to break the taper joint if applicable. Apply force carefully to avoid damaging the knuckle or control arm. Once separated, support the lower control arm to prevent it from dropping.
- 6Disconnect upper control arm or camber linkLocate the upper attachment point where the knuckle connects to the upper control arm or camber link. Remove the fastener(s) securing this connection. This may be a pinch bolt, through bolt, or ball joint depending on exact suspension design. Use a ball joint separator if applicable. Mark the orientation of any eccentric bolts or adjustment cams before removal for alignment reference.
- 7Disconnect tie rod endRemove the fastener from the rear toe/tie rod link at the knuckle (verify whether it uses a castle nut with cotter pin; remove the cotter pin first if present). Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the taper from the knuckle if applicable. Note the thread engagement depth for approximate reinstallation position.
- 8Disconnect shock absorber lower mountRemove the fastener securing the shock absorber lower mount to the knuckle or spindle assembly. This is typically a large bolt or through-bolt with nut. Support the shock to prevent it from extending fully once disconnected.
- 9Remove halfshaft from hubWith all suspension components disconnected, pull the knuckle assembly outward away from the vehicle to disengage the halfshaft splines from the hub. The halfshaft may require tapping with a brass drift or rubber mallet from behind to break it free from the hub bore. Be careful not to damage the CV joint or allow the halfshaft to drop.
- 10Remove knuckle assemblyWith all connections separated and halfshaft clear, maneuver the knuckle assembly away from the vehicle. Check that no electrical connectors, brake lines, or other components are still attached. The hub and bearing are typically integrated with the knuckle on this platform.
- 11Inspect and clean mating surfacesInspect all ball joint tapers, bolt holes, and mating surfaces on the control arms, tie rod, and shock mount for damage, corrosion, or wear. Wire brush all mounting surfaces and threads. Inspect the halfshaft splines for damage or excessive wear. Clean the hub bore area on the new knuckle if necessary.
- 12Install new knuckle assemblyPosition the new knuckle assembly into place. Align the hub bore with the halfshaft splines and slide the knuckle onto the halfshaft, ensuring full engagement of the splines. Thread the axle nut onto the halfshaft by hand to hold the assembly in position, but do not torque yet.
- 13Reconnect suspension componentsReconnect the shock absorber lower mount, upper control arm or camber link, lower control arm ball joint, and tie rod end to the knuckle. Install all fasteners hand-tight initially. For ball joints, ensure the taper seats properly and install new castle nuts and cotter pins. Apply thread locker to fasteners as specified by manufacturer. Align any eccentric bolts or adjustment cams to their marked positions.
- 14Torque all suspension fastenersTorque all suspension fasteners to manufacturer specification in the following general order: upper control arm/camber link connection, lower ball joint castle nut (torque to specification then advance to next cotter pin slot), tie rod end castle nut (torque to specification then advance to next cotter pin slot), shock absorber lower mount bolt. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands so the suspension is at ride height before final torquing to avoid preloading bushings.
- 15Install ABS sensor and brake componentsIf a wheel speed sensor was removed (non-factory equipment), reinstall it into the knuckle bore, torque the mounting fastener to specification, and reconnect the electrical connector; do not apply anti-seize to the sensor tip. Install the brake rotor onto the hub. Position the brake caliper over the rotor and install the caliper mounting bolts, torquing to specification.
- 16Torque axle nutWith all components installed, torque the rear axle nut to the factory-documented specification (verify exact value in the FSM before applying — do not guess). Have an assistant apply the brake pedal to prevent hub rotation while torquing. Stake or install cotter pin if applicable to this axle nut design.
- 17Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleInstall the wheel and tire assembly. Thread lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque lug nuts to the factory-specified value (verify in the FSM before applying) in a star pattern.
Reassembly
- All fasteners must be torqued to manufacturer specifications with suspension at ride height to avoid bushing preload
- Use new castle nuts and cotter pins for all ball joint connections
- Apply medium-strength thread locker to suspension fasteners per manufacturer specification
- Verify ABS sensor connector is fully seated and secured
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no abnormal noises from rear suspension
- Check for proper wheel alignment and vehicle tracking
- Verify ABS system operates without warning lights
- Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles
- Have four-wheel alignment performed by qualified technician as suspension geometry has been disturbed