engine
Lifter - Single
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
11.0 h
Tools
16
Steps
15
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace a single hydraulic valve lifter on the 2008 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10, requiring cylinder head removal to access the lifter valley.
Warnings
⚠️This procedure requires cylinder head removal on a high-performance engine. Incorrect reassembly can cause catastrophic engine failure, valve timing issues, or severe injury from engine malfunction. If you lack experience with cylinder head service, seek professional assistance.
⚠️The engine must be completely cold before beginning work. Hot coolant and oil can cause severe burns. Allow at least 4 hours of cool-down time.
⚠️Valve spring compressors store significant energy. Improper use can cause springs or keepers to launch at high velocity, causing injury. Wear eye protection and ensure compressor is properly seated before releasing pressure.
⚠Cylinder head bolts may be torque-to-yield (TTY) design and require replacement after removal. Verify bolt specification before reuse to avoid head gasket failure.
⚠The 8.4L V10 uses aluminum cylinder heads. Do not exceed torque specifications or use impact tools on head bolts, as thread damage will require expensive head replacement.
⚠Camshaft position sensor timing and crankshaft position must be maintained. Do not rotate engine with cylinder head removed unless following proper procedures.
ℹ️This procedure assumes the failed lifter bank has been identified. Replacing a single lifter on the opposite bank requires removing that cylinder head instead.
Tools required
Socket set (metric)Essential
Torx socket set (T20-T50)Essential
Valve spring compressorEssential
Magnetic pickup toolEssential
Pry bar (plastic or composite)Essential
Gasket scraper (plastic)Essential
Engine hoist or support fixtureEssential
Oil drain pan (15+ quart capacity)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Torque angle gaugeEssential
Clean lint-free ragsEssential
Parts organizer traysEssential
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Parts
- Hydraulic valve lifter × 1 — Use OEM Mopar specification
- Cylinder head gasket × 1 — Mopar 53021618AA or equivalent
- Valve cover gasket × 1 — Mopar 53021619AA or equivalent
- Intake manifold gasket set × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust manifold gaskets × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cylinder head bolts (if not torque-to-yield reusable) × 10 — Verify reusability per service manual
- Coolant (Mopar HOAT 50/50) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Engine oil (0W-40 full synthetic) × 1 — 11 quarts total capacity
- Oil filter × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- coolant — 19 qt
- engine_oil — 11 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery cable and secure away from terminal.
- Allow engine to cool completely (minimum 4 hours). Verify coolant hoses are cool to touch.
- Remove engine cover by releasing retaining clips.
- Relieve fuel system pressure: Remove fuel pump relay, start engine and allow to stall, then crank for 5 seconds.
- Position coolant drain pan under radiator drain valve and drain coolant completely.
- Position oil drain pan under engine and remove oil drain plug. Drain engine oil completely and remove oil filter.
- Document all electrical connector positions and routing with photos before disconnection.
- Label all vacuum lines and hoses before removal to ensure correct reassembly.
- Prepare clean workspace for cylinder head storage. Head must be placed on clean wood blocks, never directly on gasket surface.
Procedure
- 1Remove intake manifold assemblyDisconnect throttle body electrical connectors and IAC valve connector. Remove throttle cable bracket. Disconnect fuel rail supply and return lines using appropriate quick-disconnect tools. Disconnect all intake manifold vacuum lines, PCV connections, and brake booster line. Remove the intake manifold mounting bolts in reverse order from center outward. The 8.4L V10 uses approximately 16-20 intake manifold bolts depending on design iteration. Carefully lift intake manifold assembly off engine and set aside on clean surface. Inspect and cover intake ports with clean rags to prevent debris entry.
- 2Remove valve cover from affected bankDisconnect ignition coil connectors and any sensors mounted on valve cover. Remove ignition coil assemblies from the affected bank (verify coil count and configuration against service documentation). Remove valve cover mounting bolts; the Viper V10 typically uses 10-12 bolts per valve cover. Carefully break valve cover seal using plastic pry bar at designated pry points only—never between gasket surfaces. Lift valve cover straight up to avoid damaging gasket sealing surfaces. Inspect valve train for obvious damage or debris.
- 3Remove exhaust manifold from affected bankWorking from underneath vehicle or with adequate access, spray exhaust manifold studs with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15 minutes. Remove exhaust manifold heat shields if equipped. Disconnect oxygen sensors from exhaust manifold. Remove exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head fasteners; expect approximately 8-10 bolts or studs per manifold. Support exhaust system to prevent stress on remaining connections. Carefully remove exhaust manifold and gaskets, noting any damaged studs for replacement.
- 4Disconnect coolant and accessory connectionsIdentify and disconnect all coolant hoses connected to the cylinder head being removed, including heater hoses if routed to that bank. Disconnect any ground straps attached to cylinder head. Remove accessory brackets that may interfere with head removal (alternator bracket, power steering pump bracket, A/C compressor bracket as needed). Do not disconnect A/C lines—support compressor aside with wire if necessary. Disconnect camshaft position sensor connector.
- 5Remove rocker arm assembly and pushrodsWorking from front to back, loosen each rocker arm mounting bolt gradually in multiple passes to prevent binding. Remove rocker arm shaft assemblies or individual rocker arms depending on design. Store rocker arms in order if they are to be reused in the same positions. Carefully remove pushrods one at a time, storing them in order in a numbered rack or cardboard template. Pushrods must be reinstalled in their original positions unless being replaced as a set. Inspect pushrod ends for wear, scoring, or abnormal wear patterns. Note: Torque rocker arm/shaft fasteners to the factory service manual specification for the 8.4L V10.
- 6Remove cylinder head bolts and cylinder headIdentify all cylinder head bolt locations. Verify the exact cylinder head bolt count and pattern for the 8.4L V10 against the factory service manual before removal. Loosen cylinder head bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence: work from the outside bolts toward the center in a spiral pattern to prevent warping. Remove all cylinder head bolts and store safely. Carefully break cylinder head seal using plastic pry bars at designated lift points only—typically cast bosses on the head. NEVER pry between head and block gasket surfaces. Once seal is broken, lift cylinder head straight up to clear dowel pins. Use assistance or hoist if needed; cylinder head weighs approximately 50-70 lbs. Place cylinder head on clean wood blocks with gasket surface facing up.
- 7Access and remove failed lifterWith cylinder head removed, lifters are now accessible in their bores in the engine block. Identify the specific failed lifter by cylinder number and intake/exhaust position. If lifter is stuck in its bore, use a lifter removal tool or strong magnet to extract it. If lifter will not come out by hand, use a hydraulic lifter puller tool—do not damage the lifter bore surface. Once lifter is removed, inspect the lifter bore for scoring, debris, or metal particles. Clean the lifter bore thoroughly with lint-free cloth and inspect camshaft lobe corresponding to this lifter for wear, scoring, or abnormal patterns. If cam lobe shows damage, camshaft replacement is required (not covered in this procedure).
- 8Install new lifter and prepare for reassemblyVerify new lifter matches OEM specification exactly. Pre-fill new hydraulic lifter with fresh engine oil by submerging in clean oil and working plunger until all air is expelled and lifter is firm. Coat lifter body with assembly lube or fresh engine oil. Carefully insert new lifter into the cleaned bore, ensuring it slides in smoothly without binding. Lifter should rotate freely in its bore. Verify lifter is fully seated at the bottom of its bore. Clean all gasket surfaces on engine block deck using plastic scraper—remove all old gasket material without scratching aluminum surfaces. Inspect block deck surface for flatness or damage. Clean all oil passages and coolant passages in block with compressed air and clean rags.
- 9Prepare and install cylinder headThoroughly clean cylinder head gasket surface using plastic scraper and solvent. Inspect head gasket surface for warping using precision straightedge; out-of-flat beyond 0.002 inch requires machine shop resurfacing. Verify all bolt holes in block are clean and dry—use bottoming tap to chase threads if needed, then blow out with compressed air. Position new cylinder head gasket on block, aligning all coolant and oil passages. Verify gasket orientation matches the 'TOP' or 'FRONT' marking. Carefully lower cylinder head onto block, aligning with dowel pins. Do not slide head across gasket surface. Verify head is fully seated on dowel pins before installing bolts.
- 10Install and torque cylinder head boltsApply light coat of clean engine oil to cylinder head bolt threads and under bolt heads (unless using TTY bolts with specified dry installation). Install all head bolts finger-tight. Tighten cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence: start at the center and work outward in a spiral pattern. Torque sequence and values are critical: consult factory service manual for exact specifications. Torque cylinder head bolts to the exact multi-stage sequence and values specified in the factory service manual for the 2008 Viper 8.4L V10, including any torque-angle stages. Do not use approximate values. Use torque-angle gauge for angle-tightening stages. If using TTY bolts, they must be replaced and torqued per exact OEM specification without reuse.
- 11Install pushrods and rocker arm assemblyCoat each pushrod end with assembly lube. Install each pushrod into its original position (or new pushrods in order), ensuring the lower end is properly seated in the lifter cup. Verify each pushrod rotates freely by hand, indicating proper lifter seating. Apply assembly lube to rocker arm contact points, pivots, and pushrod cups. Install rocker arm shaft assemblies or individual rocker arms in their original positions. Install rocker arm mounting bolts finger-tight initially. Torque rocker arm bolts to specification (typically 18-25 ft-lbs, consult service manual). Verify valve lash/preload is within specification if adjustable rockers are used; hydraulic lifters typically require zero-lash plus specified preload turns.
- 12Install exhaust manifoldInstall new exhaust manifold gaskets on cylinder head studs or bolt holes. Position exhaust manifold onto cylinder head, aligning all ports. Install exhaust manifold fasteners finger-tight, then torque in the factory-specified sequence and value for the 8.4L V10. Reconnect oxygen sensors to exhaust manifold and torque to the factory-specified value. Install heat shields if equipped.
- 13Install valve cover and intake manifoldInstall new valve cover gasket onto valve cover or into cylinder head groove depending on design. Ensure gasket is properly seated in all locations. Position valve cover onto cylinder head, aligning all bolt holes. Install valve cover bolts and torque in a spiral pattern from center outward to the factory-specified value (over-torque will damage gasket). Install ignition coils and connect electrical connectors. Position new intake manifold gaskets on cylinder heads, ensuring proper alignment of all ports and coolant passages. Lower intake manifold into position, verifying all gaskets remain properly seated. Install intake manifold bolts and torque in the factory-specified sequence and value for the 8.4L V10. Reconnect all vacuum lines, fuel lines, throttle body connections, and sensors to intake manifold.
- 14Reconnect coolant system and accessory componentsReconnect all coolant hoses to cylinder head and intake manifold, securing with new hose clamps if originals are damaged. Reinstall any accessory brackets, alternator, power steering pump, or A/C compressor that were moved. Reconnect ground straps and all electrical connectors, verifying each connection is fully seated and locked. Install new oil filter and install oil drain plug with new crush washer, torquing to the factory-specified value.
- 15Refill fluids and perform initial startupFill engine with the factory-specified quantity of engine oil (approximately 10.5 quarts with filter) and verify level on dipstick; use the OEM-specified viscosity. Close radiator drain valve and refill cooling system with Mopar HOAT 50/50 coolant mixture to the factory-specified capacity, verifying level. Burp cooling system by running engine with radiator cap off until thermostat opens, adding coolant as needed to maintain level. Reconnect negative battery cable. Before starting engine, perform a dry cranking procedure: disable ignition system and crank engine for 10-15 seconds to build oil pressure and prime new lifter. Re-enable ignition system. Start engine and immediately verify oil pressure on gauge. Listen for abnormal noises, particularly valve train noise from the repaired cylinder bank. Idle engine for 5 minutes, monitoring for leaks at all gasket surfaces, coolant hoses, and oil seals. Check for exhaust leaks at manifold gaskets. Observe that valve train noise should decrease or disappear as new lifter pumps up and achieves proper preload. Shut off engine and recheck oil and coolant levels after 10-minute cool-down period.
Reassembly
- All components are installed during the step-by-step procedure above.
- Torque all fasteners to specification in the correct sequence to prevent gasket leaks and ensure proper clamping force.
- Verify all electrical connectors are fully seated and locked to prevent drivability issues.
- Double-check that no tools, rags, or debris remain in engine valley or intake ports before closing up engine.
Verification
- Start engine and verify immediate oil pressure indication on instrument cluster within 2-3 seconds.
- Listen for valve train noise from the repaired bank; new lifter should pump up within 30-60 seconds, with noise subsiding as it achieves proper preload.
- Allow engine to reach normal operating temperature while monitoring for coolant or oil leaks at all gasket surfaces.
- Perform a test drive, monitoring engine performance, oil pressure, and coolant temperature under various loads.
- After test drive and cool-down, recheck oil and coolant levels and inspect for any new leaks.
- If valve train noise persists after 5 minutes of operation, shut down immediately and verify lifter installation, pushrod seating, and rocker arm geometry.
- Check for diagnostic trouble codes related to camshaft position sensors or other engine management systems that may have been disturbed during service.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
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