suspension
Lower Control Arm - Front
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.8 h
Tools
11
Steps
13
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Remove and replace the front lower control arm on a 2008 Dodge Viper, requiring suspension disassembly and alignment afterward.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Suspension components are under load even when wheels are off the ground. Control arm may shift suddenly when fasteners are loosened.
⚠Ball joint separators can slip under load. Wear eye protection and keep hands clear of pinch points.
ℹ️Front suspension alignment is required after control arm replacement. Do not drive vehicle aggressively until alignment is completed.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (rated for 3+ tons)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 ft-lb range)Essential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Wrench set (metric)Essential
Pickle fork or ball joint separatorEssential
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Parts
- Front lower control arm assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or performance equivalent
- Lower ball joint nut × 1 — Replace if castellated type
- Control arm bushing fasteners × 2 — Inspect and replace if damaged
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands placed under manufacturer-designated jacking points on frame rails.
- Remove front wheel on side being serviced.
- Spray all suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak 10-15 minutes if vehicle shows corrosion.
Procedure
- 1Support lower control armPosition floor jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint. Raise jack until it just contacts the control arm with slight upward pressure to support the weight of the suspension components. This prevents the arm from dropping suddenly when fasteners are removed.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end linkLocate the sway bar end link connecting the stabilizer bar to the lower control arm. Hold the ball joint stud with a wrench to prevent spinning, then remove the nut securing the end link to the control arm. Detach the end link and swing it out of the way.
- 3Remove ball joint castle nutRemove the retaining nut from the lower ball joint stud. If a cotter pin and castellated nut are present, remove the cotter pin first, then remove the nut using a large socket. Do not reuse the cotter pin or a self-locking nut on reassembly — verify retention type against factory service information.
- 4Separate ball joint from knuckleInsert a pickle fork or ball joint separator between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle at the ball joint taper. Strike the tool firmly with a hammer to break the taper fit. Alternatively, use a two-jaw puller positioned to pull the knuckle upward off the ball joint stud. Once separated, slowly lower the floor jack to allow the control arm to drop away from the knuckle.
- 5Remove rear control arm mounting boltLocate the rear mounting point where the control arm attaches to the frame via a through-bolt and bushing. The bolt passes horizontally through the frame bracket and control arm bushing. Remove the nut from the rear bolt, then drive the bolt out using a punch or long drift. This is typically the larger of the two mounting points.
- 6Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front mounting point where the control arm attaches to the frame. Remove the nut from the front mounting bolt, then drive the bolt out. With both mounting bolts removed, maneuver the control arm out of the suspension bay. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.
- 7Inspect mounting points and clean threadsInspect frame mounting brackets for cracks, elongated bolt holes, or deformation. Check the steering knuckle ball joint taper seat for damage or gouging. Use a wire brush to clean threads in the frame brackets and on all fasteners. Apply anti-seize compound to bolt threads.
- 8Install new control arm front mounting boltPosition the new control arm into the suspension bay, aligning the front bushing with the frame bracket. Install any washers or spacers in their original orientation. Insert the front mounting bolt through the bracket and bushing, then thread the nut onto the bolt finger-tight. Do not fully tighten at this stage.
- 9Install rear mounting boltAlign the rear control arm bushing with the rear frame bracket. Insert the rear mounting bolt through the bracket and bushing, then thread the nut onto the bolt finger-tight. Ensure the control arm moves freely on both pivot points before proceeding.
- 10Connect ball joint to knuckleRaise the floor jack under the lower control arm to lift the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle taper. Align the stud with the hole in the knuckle and press upward until the taper is fully seated. Install the ball joint stud retaining nut and torque to factory specification. If a castellated nut is used, install a new cotter pin through the nut slots and stud, then bend the pin ends to secure. Confirm retention type and torque against factory service information.
- 11Reconnect sway bar end linkPosition the sway bar end link to the lower control arm mounting point. Install the nut onto the end link stud. Hold the ball joint stud with a wrench to prevent spinning and tighten the nut securely.
- 12Torque control arm mounting boltsWith the suspension at normal ride height (either lower vehicle onto jack stands positioned under the tires, or have an assistant sit in the driver's seat to load the suspension), torque the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. Tightening these bolts while suspension is hanging will cause premature bushing failure.
- 13Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the front wheel and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower vehicle until tire just contacts the ground. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.
Reassembly
- Control arm mounting bolts must be torqued to specification with suspension at ride height, not hanging free.
- Always replace cotter pins with new hardware.
- Verify all suspension fasteners are tight before test driving.
Verification
- Bounce front suspension by pushing down firmly on fender. Control arm should pivot smoothly without binding or squeaking.
- Visually inspect that ball joint stud is fully seated in knuckle taper and cotter pin is properly installed.
- Schedule immediate front end alignment. Check for unusual tire wear or steering pull after alignment is complete.
- Test drive at low speed and verify no clunking, popping, or unusual handling.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0001Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/OpenP0002Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Range/PerformanceP0026Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1P0027Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1P0030HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1P0031HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1P0042HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 3)P0043HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 3)P0050HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1P0051HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2 Sensor 1P0062HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 3)P0063HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
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