Free API
8.4L V10RWDMANUALgas
Founding sponsor spot is openYour name on every procedure for this vehicle, permanently.Sponsor — $99 →
suspension

Lower Control Arm - Rear

for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.6 h
Tools
10
Steps
13
Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

Remove and replace the rear lower control arm on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including disconnecting the ball joint, removing mounting bolts, and reinstalling with proper alignment.

Warnings

⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for its weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
Suspension components are under tension even with weight off wheels. Control arms may shift suddenly when fasteners are removed.
Ball joint separators generate significant force. Ensure the tool is properly seated to prevent slippage and injury.
ℹ️Rear alignment will be affected. Professional alignment is required after this repair.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
  3. Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands under frame rails
  4. Remove rear wheel on side being serviced
  5. Spray all control arm fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
  6. Mark control arm orientation relative to mounting points for reinstallation reference

Procedure

  1. 1
    Support the suspension
    Position a floor jack under the rear knuckle or lower control arm to support the suspension assembly. Raise jack just enough to take light load off the control arm, but do not lift the vehicle. This prevents the suspension from dropping when the control arm is disconnected.
  2. 2
    Disconnect the ball joint
    Verify the rear lower control arm-to-knuckle attachment method for this vehicle. If the arm connects to the knuckle via a tapered ball joint stud with a castle nut and cotter pin, remove the cotter pin, remove the castle nut completely, install a ball joint separator tool between the control arm and knuckle, ensure proper engagement, and apply pressure to separate the taper. If instead the arm bolts to the knuckle via a through-bolt and bushing, remove that pivot bolt/nut and disengage the arm from the knuckle.
  3. 3
    Mark cam bolt alignment (if equipped)
    If the rear control arm uses cam bolts for alignment adjustment at either mounting point, clearly mark the current position of the cam relative to the mounting bracket using a paint pen or scribe. This provides a baseline for reinstallation and minimizes alignment deviation.
  4. 4
    Remove front mounting bolt
    Locate the front mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the forward mounting bracket on the subframe or chassis. Support the control arm with one hand or use the floor jack to prevent it from falling. Remove the mounting bolt completely using a socket and breaker bar. Note the orientation of any washers or sleeves.
  5. 5
    Remove rear mounting bolt
    Locate the rear mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the rear mounting bracket on the subframe or chassis. Remove this bolt completely. The control arm is now free and can be maneuvered out of the suspension assembly. It may require angling or slight manipulation to clear the knuckle and mounting points.
  6. 6
    Remove control arm
    Carefully extract the lower control arm from the vehicle. Inspect the removed arm for worn bushings, cracks, or damage to verify replacement is necessary. Check the ball joint for excessive play or torn boots.
  7. 7
    Prepare mounting points
    Clean the mounting bolt holes at both chassis mounting points and at the knuckle ball joint taper using a wire brush. Remove any corrosion, dirt, or debris. Inspect mounting brackets for cracks or damage. Clean threads on mounting bolts if reusing.
  8. 8
    Install new control arm
    Position the new lower control arm into the suspension assembly, aligning the ball joint stud with the hole in the knuckle. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut onto the ball joint stud and tighten hand-tight. Do not torque at this stage.
  9. 9
    Install front mounting bolt
    Align the front bushing of the control arm with the forward mounting bracket. Insert the front mounting bolt through the bracket and control arm bushing, ensuring any washers or sleeves are in their original orientation. Thread the nut onto the bolt hand-tight. Do not torque at this stage.
  10. 10
    Install rear mounting bolt
    Align the rear bushing of the control arm with the rear mounting bracket. If cam bolts are used, align the cam to the marks made during disassembly. Insert the rear mounting bolt through the bracket and control arm bushing. Thread the nut onto the bolt hand-tight.
  11. 11
    Load suspension to ride height
    Use the floor jack under the knuckle or control arm to raise the suspension to simulate normal ride height. This compresses the suspension to the position it will be in when the vehicle is on the ground, which is critical for proper bushing alignment and longevity. The suspension should be at approximately the same height as when the vehicle is sitting on its wheels.
  12. 12
    Torque all fasteners
    With the suspension loaded to ride height, torque the front control arm mounting bolt to specification, then torque the rear mounting bolt to specification. Torque the ball joint castle nut to specification, then advance the nut as needed to align the next castle slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure. Lower the jack slightly to verify fasteners remain tight.
  13. 13
    Final inspection
    Remove the floor jack from under the suspension. Visually inspect all connections to ensure bolts are fully seated and the cotter pin is properly installed. Verify the control arm moves freely through its range of motion without binding or interference. Check that no tools or hardware have been left in the wheel well.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the rear wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts
  2. Lower vehicle to ground and torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern
  3. Perform a final walk-around inspection to ensure all fasteners are secure
  4. Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify no abnormal noises or handling issues

Verification

  • Bounce the rear of the vehicle and listen for any clunking or rattling from the control arm area
  • Verify the ball joint has no excessive play by attempting to move the wheel assembly with the vehicle on the ground
  • Confirm all mounting bolts are tight and cotter pin is properly installed
  • Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible to restore proper rear suspension geometry

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

🔧Stuck on this lower control arm - rear? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Dodge within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Built by master technician Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2017 Dodge Viper repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Dodge Viper — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →