Rack and Pinion Boots

This procedure covers removal and replacement of the inner and outer rack and pinion boot assemblies on a 2008 Dodge Viper with 8.4L V10 engine, requiring access from underneath the vehicle with wheels removed.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rack and pinion boot kit (inner and outer boots, clamps) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Tie rod end dust boot (if damaged during separation) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• power_steering — 1.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove).
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated front jacking point.
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at manufacturer-specified lift points on frame rails.
6. Remove front wheels completely and set aside.
7. Center steering wheel and verify front wheels are pointing straight ahead.

Procedure

1. 1

   Access the steering rack assembly
   From underneath the vehicle, locate the steering rack assembly running laterally behind the front suspension crossmember. Identify the inner and outer tie rod boots on both driver and passenger sides. The outer boots cover the tie rod end ball joint; the inner boots cover the tie rod-to-rack connection point and are secured with clamps to both the tie rod and the rack body.
2. 2

   Mark tie rod position
   Before loosening any fasteners, use a paint marker or scribe to mark the position of the tie rod end jam nut relative to the outer tie rod. Make a second mark showing the tie rod end position relative to the tie rod threads. These marks will help maintain approximate alignment during reassembly.
3. 3

   Disconnect outer tie rod ends
   Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut. Using the correct size socket (verify against the fastener), loosen and remove the castle nut securing the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Use a tie rod end separator tool (pickle fork or ball joint press) to separate the tie rod end taper from the knuckle. Strike the separator tool sharply if using a pickle fork, or apply steady pressure if using a press-type tool. Once separated, swing the tie rod assembly downward away from the knuckle. Repeat for both sides.
4. 4

   Remove outer boot clamps and boots
   Locate the boot clamps securing the outer tie rod end boot. These are typically low-profile band clamps. Use boot clamp pliers to open and remove the clamps, or carefully cut them with wire cutters if they are one-time-use crimp clamps. Slide the outer boot off the tie rod end housing toward the center of the vehicle and off the tie rod shaft. Inspect the tie rod end dust boot for damage; if torn, note for replacement. Repeat for both sides.
5. 5

   Access inner boot clamps
   The inner rack boots are secured with two clamps each: one large clamp attaching to the steering rack bellows housing, and one smaller clamp attaching to the tie rod near the inner tie rod joint. Identify both clamps on the boot you are replacing. The inner boot may be partially obscured by the tie rod, requiring you to rotate it slightly for access.
6. 6

   Remove inner boot outer clamp
   Starting with the clamp nearest the wheel (outer position on the inner boot, attached to the tie rod), use boot clamp pliers to open and remove it. If it is a crimp-style clamp, carefully cut it with wire cutters, taking care not to score the tie rod shaft. Once removed, slide this end of the boot toward the center of the vehicle to expose the inner tie rod joint area.
7. 7

   Remove inner boot inner clamp and boot
   Remove the large clamp securing the inner boot to the steering rack bellows housing. This clamp is typically a band clamp or low-profile gear clamp. Use boot clamp pliers or carefully cut with wire cutters. Once removed, slide the entire inner boot off the tie rod and away from the rack housing. Fluid may drain from the boot and rack bellows; have rags ready to catch power steering fluid. Repeat steps 5-7 for the opposite side inner boot.
8. 8

   Inspect and clean rack and tie rod surfaces
   With boots removed, thoroughly inspect the exposed tie rod shafts and rack bellows housing for corrosion, scoring, or damage. Check the rack bellows for cracks or tears. Inspect the inner tie rod joint for excessive play or damage. Use brake parts cleaner and clean rags to remove old grease, dirt, and debris from all surfaces where new boots will seat. Use a parts brush for stubborn contamination. Ensure sealing surfaces on the rack housing and tie rods are smooth and clean.
9. 9

   Install new inner boots
   Slide a new inner boot onto the tie rod from the outboard end, with the larger diameter end facing toward the rack center. Work the boot over the inner tie rod joint area and position the large end over the steering rack bellows housing. Ensure the boot is fully seated in the groove on the rack housing with no twists or folds. Install the new large clamp over the rack housing end of the boot and tighten securely using boot clamp pliers, ensuring the clamp seats properly in the boot groove. Slide the smaller end of the boot back toward the wheel and position it over the tie rod shaft in the designated groove. Install the new small clamp and tighten securely. Verify the boot has no twists and moves freely with tie rod articulation. Repeat for the opposite side.
10. 10

    Install new outer boots
    Slide a new outer boot onto the tie rod shaft from the end, working it over the tie rod threads toward the tie rod end housing. Position the boot over the tie rod end ball joint housing and ensure it seats fully in the housing groove. Install the new clamp(s) per the kit instructions and tighten securely. Verify the boot is properly seated with no gaps or twists. Repeat for the opposite side.
11. 11

    Reconnect tie rod ends to steering knuckles
    Swing the tie rod ends back up to the steering knuckle ball stud holes and insert the tapered stud into the knuckle. Thread the castle nut onto the stud by hand, then tighten using the correct socket to the manufacturer-specified torque (verify exact specification in the 2008 Viper service manual before final torque). Tighten until the next castle slot aligns with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure. Verify the tie rod end is firmly seated in the knuckle taper with no play. Repeat for both sides.
12. 12

    Verify alignment marks and steering center
    Check that the alignment marks made in step 2 are still aligned on both sides. If marks do not align, loosen the tie rod end jam nuts and adjust the tie rod ends to match the marks, then retighten jam nuts. Verify the steering wheel is still centered with wheels pointing straight ahead. Note that professional alignment is required after this repair.
13. 13

    Check power steering fluid level
    Locate the power steering fluid reservoir in the engine bay. Check fluid level with engine off. Add the manufacturer-specified power steering fluid (verify exact spec in the 2008 Viper service manual — commonly Mopar ATF+4 for Chrysler products) as needed to bring level to the COLD mark on the dipstick or reservoir. Do not overfill.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Reinstall front wheels, threading lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern using a socket. Lower vehicle from jack stands to the ground using the floor jack, then remove jack stands. With vehicle weight on wheels, torque lug nuts to the manufacturer-specified value (verify exact specification in the 2008 Viper service manual) in a star pattern using a torque wrench and the correct socket.
15. 15

    Bleed power steering system and test
    Start the engine and turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock 3-4 times to purge air from the system. Check for fluid leaks at all boot clamp locations. Check power steering fluid level again and top off as needed. Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area, checking for proper steering response and any unusual noises. Monitor for any fluid leakage from boot areas after test drive.

Reassembly

1. Torque all fasteners to specification per this procedure.
2. Ensure all boot clamps are fully tightened with no gaps between clamp and boot.
3. Verify steering wheel returns to center position after lock-to-lock test.
4. Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment immediately after completing this repair, as toe settings will likely be altered even with alignment marks used.

Verification

• Verify no power steering fluid leaks from any boot clamp location with engine running and steering turned lock to lock.
• Confirm steering operates smoothly with no binding or unusual noises through full range of motion.
• Check that all tie rod end castle nuts are properly torqued with cotter pins installed.
• Verify power steering fluid level is at proper mark on reservoir.
• Confirm all boots are properly seated with no visible twists, tears, or gaps at clamp locations.
• Test drive vehicle and verify steering response is normal with no pulling to either side (note: alignment is still required).

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