suspension
Radius Arm
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.9 h
Tools
11
Steps
13
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Removal and replacement of the front suspension radius arm (lower control arm) on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including ball joint separation and bushing inspection.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠The Viper's suspension is under significant load. Spring tension and weight distribution can cause sudden movement when fasteners are loosened.
⚠Ball joint separators apply significant striking force. Ensure proper PPE and secure the tool to prevent slippage.
ℹ️Radius arm bushings may require a hydraulic press for replacement. Inspect bushings before removal to determine if replacement is needed.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
21mm socket and ratchetEssential
Torx and E-Torx socket setEssential
Pry barEssential
Breaker barEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 ft-lb range)Essential
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Parts
- Radius arm (lower control arm) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Radius arm bushings (if not included with arm) × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-recommended lift points
- Remove front wheel on side being serviced
- Spray all radius arm fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Remove ball joint cotter pin and castle nutLocate the ball joint connection where the radius arm attaches to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin securing the castle nut. Using the correct size socket (verify against manufacturer specification), remove the castle nut from the ball joint stud. Do not discard the castle nut unless replacing; inspect threads for damage.
- 2Separate ball joint from steering knucklePosition a ball joint separator tool between the radius arm and steering knuckle at the ball joint taper. Strike the tool firmly to break the taper fit. If using a pickle fork, note that this may damage the ball joint boot. Once taper is broken, the ball joint stud will separate from the knuckle. Support the radius arm to prevent sudden dropping.⚠Ball joint may release suddenly under spring tension. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
- 3Disconnect sway bar end link from radius armLocate the sway bar end link attachment point on the radius arm. Remove the fastener securing the end link to the radius arm. This is typically a single nut on a threaded stud. Use a Torx or hex key to hold the stud from spinning while removing the nut. Disconnect the end link from the radius arm.
- 4Remove rear radius arm pivot boltLocate the rear mounting point where the radius arm pivots on the crossmember. This is a large through-bolt with a bushing. Remove the nut from the rear pivot bolt, then drive or press the bolt out of the bushing assembly. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.
- 5Remove front radius arm mounting fastenersLocate the front mounting point of the radius arm to the crossmember or frame bracket. Remove the 2 bolts securing the front bushing bracket to the chassis. These bolts pass through the bushing housing and into the frame. Use a breaker bar if fasteners are seized.
- 6Remove radius arm from vehicleWith all fasteners removed and the ball joint separated, lower the radius arm from the vehicle. Maneuver the arm clear of the steering knuckle, sway bar, and any brake line brackets. Inspect the removed arm for damage, bent condition, or torn bushings.
- 7Inspect and replace bushings if necessaryInspect both front and rear bushings in the radius arm for cracking, tearing, or separation from the metal sleeve. If bushings are worn, press them out using a hydraulic press and appropriate adapters. Press new bushings into the radius arm housing, ensuring proper alignment and full seating. If installing a new complete radius arm assembly, skip this step.ℹ️Bushing replacement requires specialized tools. Consider professional service if press equipment is unavailable.
- 8Install radius arm to front mounting positionPosition the radius arm to the front mounting bracket on the crossmember, aligning the bushing bracket with the bolt holes. Insert the 2 mounting bolts through the bracket and into the frame. Thread bolts by hand to start, but do not fully tighten yet. Suspension fasteners must be torqued at ride height or with suspension loaded.
- 9Install rear radius arm pivot boltAlign the rear bushing of the radius arm with the mounting point on the crossmember. Insert the pivot bolt through the bushing and crossmember bracket. Install any washers or spacers in their original orientation. Thread the nut onto the pivot bolt by hand, but do not fully tighten yet.
- 10Connect ball joint to steering knuckleLift the radius arm into position and insert the ball joint stud into the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut onto the ball joint stud and tighten to draw the taper fully seated. Once seated, tighten the castle nut and align the slots with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.⚠Castle nut must be tightened to specification, then advanced to next slot if necessary for cotter pin alignment. Never loosen the nut to align slots.
- 11Reconnect sway bar end linkReconnect the sway bar end link to the radius arm mounting point. Install the fastener and tighten while holding the stud from spinning. Ensure the end link is properly seated in the mounting hole.
- 12Torque all radius arm fastenersSupport the suspension at normal ride height using a floor jack under the radius arm or lower ball joint area. With the suspension loaded to simulate ride height, torque the front mounting bolts, rear pivot bolt nut, and ball joint castle nut to manufacturer specifications. Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent.
- 13Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the front wheel and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.
Reassembly
- All suspension fasteners must be torqued with the vehicle at ride height or with suspension loaded to simulate normal position
- Always use a new cotter pin for the ball joint castle nut
- Inspect all rubber bushings for proper seating and absence of binding during installation
- Verify sway bar end link moves freely without binding after installation
Verification
- Bounce the front suspension several times to settle components and verify no unusual noises
- Verify all fasteners are fully tightened and cotter pin is properly installed
- Perform a visual inspection underneath the vehicle for any loose components or interference
- Test drive at low speed in a safe area to verify normal handling and no suspension noises
- Schedule a professional alignment as soon as possible, as radius arm replacement affects front suspension geometry