engine
Connecting Rod Bearings
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
16.8 h
Tools
20
Steps
22
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Complete replacement of connecting rod bearings on the 2008 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10, requiring engine removal, disassembly to crankshaft level, bearing installation, and reassembly with precision measurement and torque procedures.
Warnings
⚠️Engine weighs approximately 700 pounds. Ensure engine hoist and stand are rated appropriately and all safety chains are used during removal and handling.
⚠️Disconnect negative battery cable and wait 10 minutes before beginning work to allow airbag system capacitors to discharge.
⚠Connecting rod bearings must be measured with Plastigage and micrometers. Installing bearings without proper clearance verification can result in catastrophic engine failure.
⚠Rod bolts are torque-to-yield design. Measure stretch and replace if beyond service limit. Reusing over-stretched bolts will cause rod bearing failure.
⚠Mark all rod caps and pistons by cylinder number and orientation before disassembly. Mixing components will cause bearing failure and engine damage.
ℹ️Work on a cool engine only. Allow at least 4 hours after shutdown for complete cooling.
ℹ️This procedure requires precision measurement tools and experience with internal engine work. Improper bearing installation will destroy the engine within minutes of startup.
Tools required
Engine hoist with load levelerEssential
Engine stand rated for 800+ lbsEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 ft-lb range)Essential
Torque angle gaugeEssential
Inside micrometer (2-4 inch range)Essential
Outside micrometer (3-4 inch range)Essential
Dial bore gauge setEssential
Transmission jackEssential
Complete socket set (metric and SAE)Essential
Ridge reamerEssential
Oil pump priming toolEssential
Assembly lube for bearingsEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Connecting rod bearing set (standard size or appropriate oversize) × 1 — Use OEM specification or King/Clevite equivalent
- Main bearing set (if inspection reveals wear) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Rod bolts (if torque-to-yield or stretched) × 20 — OEM Mopar part number
- Engine oil filter × 1 — Mopar or equivalent
- Oil pan gasket × 1 — Mopar OEM
- Valve cover gaskets × 2 — Mopar OEM, left and right
- Intake manifold gasket set × 1 — Mopar OEM
- Exhaust manifold gaskets × 2 — Mopar OEM
- Coolant hoses (as needed based on inspection) × 1 — OEM specification
- Thermostat and housing gasket × 1 — Mopar OEM
- Water pump gasket × 1 — Mopar OEM
- Engine mount hardware (inspect and replace as needed) × 1 — OEM specification
- New engine oil × 1 — 0W-40 full synthetic
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- 0W-40 full synthetic engine oil — 11 qt
- Mopar HOAT coolant 50/50 — 19 qt
Preparation
- Position vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake. Place wheel chocks at rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery cable and isolate from terminal. Wait 10 minutes for airbag system discharge.
- Drain engine oil completely into appropriate container. Remove oil filter.
- Drain engine coolant from radiator petcock and block drains into suitable container.
- Remove engine cover by releasing spring clips or fasteners at perimeter.
- Relieve fuel system pressure by removing fuel pump relay and cranking engine until it fails to start.
- Photograph and label all electrical connectors, vacuum lines, and hose routing for reference during reassembly.
- Prepare clean workspace for engine disassembly with organized parts storage and labeling system.
Procedure
- 1Remove intake and fuel system componentsRemove air intake system including air filter housing and intake tubes. Disconnect throttle body electrical connector and remove throttle body from intake manifold. Disconnect fuel supply and return lines at fuel rail using appropriate disconnect tools. Disconnect all fuel injector electrical connectors and label by cylinder. Remove fuel rails with injectors attached as an assembly. Disconnect MAP sensor, IAT sensor, and any vacuum lines from intake manifold. Remove intake manifold bolts in reverse of the factory tightening sequence (verify count and pattern in service manual) and lift manifold away. Inspect intake manifold gaskets and set aside with hardware.
- 2Remove exhaust manifolds and accessoriesWorking from underneath vehicle if needed, disconnect exhaust pipes from manifolds at slip joints or flanges. Remove exhaust manifold bolts and remove both manifolds. Disconnect alternator wiring and remove alternator with brackets. Remove power steering pump with lines attached and secure out of the way without disconnecting lines if possible. Remove A/C compressor with lines attached and secure out of the way. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner and idler pulleys. Remove water pump and thermostat housing.
- 3Remove valve covers and cylinder headsDisconnect ignition coil connectors and remove all 10 individual coil packs. Remove spark plugs and store by cylinder number. Remove valve cover bolts and lift off both valve covers. Remove rocker arm/pedestal fasteners in sequence per service manual and keep all rocker components organized by cylinder and bank. Remove pushrods and store in order. Remove cylinder head bolts in reverse of the factory tightening sequence (verify count and pattern in service manual) in multiple passes. Lift cylinder heads off block. If heads are stuck, use plastic mallet to break gasket seal - never pry between sealing surfaces.
- 4Remove engine from vehicleDisconnect remaining coolant hoses at engine. Disconnect transmission cooler lines if equipped. Remove transmission bell housing bolts accessible from top. Support transmission with transmission jack. Attach engine hoist with load leveler to factory lifting points on cylinder heads or block. Remove motor mount through-bolts on both sides. Disconnect ground straps from engine to chassis. Disconnect wiring harness main connector at firewall or PCM location. Carefully lift engine while monitoring for any remaining connections. Tilt engine as needed using load leveler to clear firewall and subframe. Once clear, move engine to engine stand location.
- 5Mount engine on stand and remove front accessoriesInstall engine stand adapter plate to engine block using bell housing bolt holes. Secure engine to stand with grade 8 bolts of appropriate length. Rotate engine to convenient working position. Remove harmonic balancer center bolt using balancer holding tool. Use harmonic balancer puller to remove balancer from crankshaft snout. Remove timing chain cover bolts and remove cover. Remove oil pump drive assembly if accessible from front. Note timing marks on camshaft and crankshaft sprockets before removing timing chain.
- 6Remove oil pan and windage trayRotate engine to inverted position on stand for oil pan access. Remove all oil pan bolts working around perimeter. Carefully separate oil pan from block using plastic gasket scraper if needed - do not pry on sealing surfaces. Remove windage tray or baffle if equipped by removing its attachment bolts. Remove oil pickup tube from main bearing cap or block. Inspect oil pump condition and remove if replacement or inspection is needed.
- 7Mark and inspect rod and piston assembliesRotate crankshaft to position cylinder 1 at bottom dead center. Using permanent marker or stamp, clearly mark each connecting rod and rod cap with cylinder number (1-10) and orientation mark showing which side faces front of engine. Mark pistons with same cylinder numbers. Verify factory markings are visible before assuming none exist. Check rod side clearance on crankshaft using feeler gauges and record measurements for reference. Inspect cylinder bores at top for ridge formation.
- 8Remove cylinder ridge and measure boresUsing ridge reamer, carefully remove any ridge at top of cylinder bores following tool manufacturer instructions. Remove only the ridge - do not cut into unworn portion of cylinder. Clean bore thoroughly after ridge removal. Using dial bore gauge, measure each cylinder bore at three depths (top, middle, bottom) and two orientations (parallel and perpendicular to crankshaft). Record all measurements. Compare to service specifications for taper and out-of-round limits to determine if boring is required.
- 9Remove connecting rod caps and pistonsWorking on cylinder 1, remove the two rod cap bolts. Carefully remove rod cap and bearing insert, keeping cap with its specific rod. Push piston and rod assembly up and out through top of bore. Place a clean shop towel over rod bolts or install rod bolt protectors to prevent damage to crankshaft journal. Repeat process for remaining cylinders, keeping each rod cap with its rod and maintaining organization by cylinder number. Place piston assemblies in numbered order on clean workbench.
- 10Inspect and clean connecting rodsRemove old bearing inserts from rods and caps. Clean all bearing surfaces with solvent and compressed air. Inspect rod big end and cap for any scoring, heat discoloration, or damage. Check rod bolt holes for thread damage or stretching. Check rod bolts for necking, thread damage, or elongation. Using rod bolt stretch gauge, measure bolt length from underhead to end. If stretch exceeds specification or bolt shows damage, install new rod bolts. Inspect small end bushing for wear or scoring.
- 11Measure crankshaft journalsUsing outside micrometer, measure each connecting rod journal diameter at four points 90 degrees apart. Record all measurements. Check for taper by comparing measurements at each end of journal. Check for out-of-round by comparing measurements around journal circumference. Compare all measurements to service specifications. If journals are scored, tapered beyond limits, or undersize, crankshaft requires grinding and undersize bearings. Inspect each journal surface visually for scoring or discoloration indicating bearing failure or lubrication issues.
- 12Measure main bearings and journalsCheck main bearing cap bolts for proper torque. If removing main caps for inspection, mark each cap with its position and orientation before removal. Measure main bearing journals using same procedure as rod journals. Inspect main bearing inserts for wear patterns, scoring, or embedded material. If main bearings show significant wear or damage, plan for main bearing replacement as well. Check crankshaft endplay using dial indicator before disturbing main bearing caps.
- 13Install and check new rod bearings dry fitSelect appropriate bearing size based on crankshaft journal measurements (standard or oversize). Install upper bearing insert into connecting rod, ensuring bearing tang engages slot in rod and bearing seats fully in bore. Install lower bearing insert into rod cap with same attention to tang engagement. Without lubrication, install rod cap to rod in correct orientation matching your marks. Install rod bolts and torque to specification. Using inside micrometer or dial bore gauge, measure bearing inside diameter. Calculate oil clearance by subtracting crankshaft journal diameter from bearing inside diameter. Target clearance should be within specification range. Record clearance for each rod.
- 14Verify bearing clearance with PlastigageRemove rod caps. Place strip of Plastigage across crankshaft journal parallel to crankshaft centerline, avoiding oil hole. Install rod cap with dry bearings and torque bolts to specification. Do not rotate crankshaft with Plastigage installed. Remove rod cap carefully without rotating. Compare width of flattened Plastigage to scale on package envelope to determine clearance. Clearance should match previous micrometer measurements and fall within specification. If clearance is too tight, verify correct bearing size. If too loose, next undersize bearing may be needed, indicating worn journal. Repeat Plastigage check for all rod journals. Clean all Plastigage residue completely before final assembly.
- 15Clean and prepare components for assemblyThoroughly clean all bearing surfaces in rods and caps with clean solvent. Clean crankshaft journals with solvent and lint-free cloth. Blow out all oil passages in crankshaft using compressed air. Clean piston ring grooves using ring groove cleaner or broken piston ring, ensuring all carbon deposits are removed. Clean piston domes and skirts. Inspect piston pins and pin bores for wear. Oil all bearing surfaces with assembly lube specifically designed for engine bearings. Oil cylinder bores with clean engine oil.
- 16Install pistons with new bearingsInstall upper bearing insert in connecting rod with assembly lube on bearing surface. Position piston for cylinder 1 with ring gaps staggered per service manual specification. Install piston ring compressor around piston, ensuring all rings are fully compressed into grooves. Orient connecting rod to match original orientation marks. Insert rod bolt guides or use towel over bolts. Guide piston and rod assembly into cylinder 1 from top of block, tapping gently on piston crown with wooden hammer handle while ensuring rod does not damage crankshaft journal. Once piston is seated in bore, rotate crankshaft to position journal accessible from bottom. Apply assembly lube to lower bearing insert and install in rod cap. Install rod cap in correct orientation matching marks. Install rod bolts and torque to specification in service manual. If torque-to-yield bolts, apply initial torque then rotate additional degrees per specification. Remove bolt guides or towel. Check rod side clearance on journal. Repeat for remaining cylinders, working methodically through all ten.
- 17Install oil pump and pan assemblyInstall oil pump pickup tube with new O-ring or gasket. Install oil pump with new gasket if removed. Install windage tray or baffle with correct hardware. Clean oil pan and block mating surfaces thoroughly. Apply small bead of RTV sealant at corners where rubber seals meet gaskets if specified in service manual, or install new gasket per manufacturer instructions. Position oil pan and install all bolts finger tight. Torque oil pan bolts in spiral pattern from center outward to specification in multiple passes to prevent distortion. Allow RTV to cure per product instructions if used.
- 18Install timing components and front coverRotate crankshaft and camshaft to align timing marks per service manual specifications. Install timing chain with sprockets, ensuring marks align correctly. Install timing chain tensioner if equipped. Rotate engine through two complete revolutions and recheck timing mark alignment. Clean timing cover and block mating surface. Install new timing cover gasket or apply RTV per manufacturer specification. Install timing cover and torque bolts to specification. Install harmonic balancer using balancer installation tool - never hammer balancer onto crankshaft. Install and torque balancer bolt to specification.
- 19Reinstall cylinder heads and valve trainClean cylinder head and block mating surfaces thoroughly. Install new head gaskets in correct orientation, checking for up arrows or front marks. Position cylinder heads on block, ensuring dowel pins engage head properly. Install cylinder head bolts with light oil on threads. Torque head bolts following sequence and specification in service manual, typically in multiple passes with final torque-to-yield angle rotation. Install pushrods in original locations. Install rocker arm assemblies and torque rocker shaft bolts to specification in sequence. Verify valve lash if adjustable. Install valve covers with new gaskets and torque evenly.
- 20Reinstall engine and connect systemsRemove engine from stand and position on engine hoist. Reverse removal procedure to install engine in vehicle, carefully aligning motor mounts and bellhousing to transmission. Install motor mount bolts and torque to specification. Reconnect all wiring harness connectors, ground straps, and sensors. Install exhaust manifolds with new gaskets and torque to specification. Install intake manifold with new gaskets and torque in sequence. Reconnect fuel system, throttle body, and all vacuum lines. Install accessories including alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, and water pump. Install accessory drive belt. Reconnect all coolant hoses.
- 21Fill fluids and prime oiling systemInstall new oil filter. Fill engine with the factory-specified oil capacity (verify in service manual) of 0W-40 full synthetic engine oil. Prime the oil system using the manufacturer's specified priming method (this engine has no distributor drive) until oil pressure registers on gauge or oil appears at rocker arms. This may take several minutes. Fill cooling system with the factory-specified coolant capacity (verify in service manual) of Mopar HOAT 50/50 coolant mixture. Reconnect negative battery cable. Check all connections and verify no tools or parts remain in engine compartment.
- 22Initial startup and break-inStart engine and immediately verify oil pressure registers on gauge. Allow engine to idle for 20-30 seconds, monitoring for any unusual noises, leaks, or warning lights. If oil pressure is not present within 10 seconds, shut down immediately and investigate. Check for coolant, oil, and fuel leaks. Allow engine to reach operating temperature while monitoring temperature gauge. Check for proper thermostat operation. Vary engine speed between 1500-2500 RPM for 20 minutes to seat bearings, avoiding sustained high RPM or load. Shut down and allow to cool. Check oil level and add if needed. Recheck all fluid levels.
Reassembly
- Torque all fasteners to manufacturer specifications using proper sequence where applicable
- Replace all gaskets, seals, and single-use fasteners with new OEM parts
- Use assembly lube on all bearing surfaces and engine oil on cylinder bores during assembly
- Verify all electrical connectors are fully seated and locked
- Double-check timing mark alignment before installing timing cover
- Stagger piston ring gaps per manufacturer specification before installation
- Prime oiling system before initial startup to prevent bearing damage
Verification
- Verify oil pressure builds immediately on startup and maintains at least 10 PSI at idle when warm
- Listen for any abnormal knocking, ticking, or rattling noises from bottom end during idle and light acceleration
- Check for oil leaks at pan gasket, timing cover, and valve covers after test drive
- Verify no coolant leaks at head gaskets, intake manifold, or water pump
- Monitor oil consumption over first 500 miles - excessive consumption indicates ring sealing issues
- Perform compression test if any concerns arise - all cylinders should be within 10% of each other
- Change oil and filter after 500 mile break-in period and inspect for bearing material in filter media
- Verify smooth operation through full RPM range with no misfires or hesitation