suspension
Strut Assembly - Front
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.8 h
Tools
11
Steps
14
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Complete front strut assembly replacement on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including removal of strut-to-knuckle connection, upper strut tower mounting, and installation of new strut assemblies.
Warnings
⚠️Strut assemblies are under extreme spring tension. NEVER loosen the center strut shaft nut unless the strut is properly compressed in a spring compressor or you are replacing a complete pre-assembled strut. Serious injury or death can result from uncontrolled spring release.
⚠️This procedure directly affects vehicle steering and suspension. Errors in assembly, torque specifications, or component alignment can result in loss of vehicle control, crash, and death. If you are uncertain about any step, seek professional service.
⚠️Ensure vehicle is properly supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠The strut-to-knuckle bolts may be torque-to-yield (TTY) fasteners. Replace with new bolts if specified by service manual or if bolts show thread deformation or stretching.
⚠Front suspension components may be corroded. Apply penetrating oil to fasteners 15-30 minutes before removal to ease disassembly.
Tools required
Torque wrench (50-200 Nm range)Essential
18mm socket and ratchetEssential
21mm socket and ratchetEssential
15mm wrenchEssential
Breaker barEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
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Parts
- Front strut assembly (left) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket equivalent
- Front strut assembly (right) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket equivalent
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove).
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points.
- Remove front wheels completely.
- Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts, strut tower nuts, and sway bar end link nuts if corrosion is visible. Allow to penetrate while gathering tools.
Procedure
- 1Access upper strut tower mountingOpen the hood and locate the upper strut tower in the front wheel well area. On the Viper, the strut towers are accessible from the engine bay. Identify the upper shock mount fasteners; verify the exact count and configuration against the factory service manual, as the Viper uses a coil-over shock rather than a MacPherson strut. Do NOT loosen the center nut at this time—it retains the spring under high tension.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end link (if necessary for clearance)Locate the sway bar end link connecting the sway bar to the strut assembly or lower control arm. Using a 15mm wrench to hold the stud and an 18mm socket on the nut, remove the upper end link nut connecting to the strut. Swing the end link out of the way. Note the orientation and any washers/bushings for reassembly.Torque specSway Bar End Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 3Disconnect brake line bracket (if applicable)Check for any brake line brackets or ABS sensor wiring attached to the strut body. If present, remove the fastener securing the bracket to the strut using the appropriate socket. Do not disconnect the brake line itself—simply free it from the strut so it does not hang under tension when the strut is removed.
- 4Remove strut-to-knuckle boltsLocate the two large bolts connecting the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle. Identify the two large bolts connecting the bottom of the shock/strut to the steering knuckle; confirm the exact bolt head size against the factory service manual before selecting a socket. Support the knuckle assembly with one hand or a floor jack positioned under the lower control arm. Using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, remove both strut-to-knuckle bolts completely. The knuckle will now be free to pivot—control its movement to prevent damage to brake lines or the ABS sensor wiring. Note: Support the knuckle and brake assembly before fully removing the second bolt to prevent sudden drop and damage to brake lines or ABS sensor wiring.⚠Support the knuckle and brake assembly before fully removing the second bolt to prevent sudden drop and damage to brake lines, ABS sensor wiring, or CV axle boot.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts150 Nm (111 lb-ft)
- 5Remove upper strut tower nutsReturn to the engine bay and locate the three nuts on the upper strut mount. Using an 18mm socket and ratchet, remove all three upper strut tower mounting nuts. Do NOT remove or loosen the center strut shaft nut—this nut retains the compressed spring. Keep the nuts and any washers organized for reinstallation.⚠️Do NOT loosen the center strut shaft nut. This nut holds the spring under extreme compression. Loosening it without a spring compressor will cause violent spring release resulting in severe injury or death.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 6Remove strut assembly from vehicleWith the upper nuts removed and lower bolts disconnected, carefully maneuver the strut assembly downward and out through the wheel well. The assembly is heavy and awkward—control its descent to avoid striking brake components, control arms, or body panels. Repeat steps 2-6 for the opposite side strut if performing both sides.
- 7Inspect mounting points and hardwareWith the strut removed, inspect the strut tower mounting surface for damage, cracks, or corrosion. Check the steering knuckle clevis for cracks or elongated bolt holes. If the strut-to-knuckle bolts are torque-to-yield (TTY), replace them with new bolts. Clean the strut tower mounting surface and knuckle clevis with a wire brush to ensure proper seating of the new strut.
- 8Position new strut assemblyManeuver the new strut assembly up through the wheel well, aligning the upper mounting studs with the holes in the strut tower. You may need an assistant or a floor jack under the lower control arm to support the knuckle while positioning the strut. Once the upper studs are through the tower, thread the three upper strut tower nuts onto the studs by hand to hold the assembly in place.
- 9Connect strut to steering knuckleAlign the lower strut clevis with the steering knuckle. You may need to use a pry bar or jack to manipulate the knuckle position for alignment. Insert both strut-to-knuckle bolts through the knuckle and strut clevis. Thread the nuts onto the bolts by hand initially, ensuring the bolts are fully seated and threads engage smoothly.
- 10Torque strut-to-knuckle boltsUsing a torque wrench and the correct socket, torque both shock-to-knuckle bolts to the factory-specified value; verify this torque against the 2008 Viper service manual before final tightening. Torque in a cross pattern if applicable, or torque each bolt incrementally to ensure even loading. Verify both bolts are properly seated before final torque application.⚠If using new torque-to-yield bolts, ensure they are torqued in a single continuous motion to final specification without backing off and re-torquing.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts150 Nm (111 lb-ft)
- 11Torque upper strut tower nutsReturn to the engine bay. Using a torque wrench and the correct socket, torque the upper shock mount nuts to the factory-specified value in a star pattern to ensure even loading of the mount; verify this torque against the 2008 Viper service manual. If the assembly uses a center shaft retaining nut, verify it has not loosened; confirm the correct factory torque value against the 2008 Viper service manual.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)Strut Mount Center Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 12Reconnect brake line bracket and sway bar end linkReattach any brake line brackets or ABS sensor wiring to the strut body using the original fasteners. Reconnect the sway bar end link to the strut assembly, ensuring all washers and bushings are in their original orientation. Holding the stud with the appropriate wrench, torque the sway bar end link nut to the factory-specified value; verify the torque and fastener sizes against the 2008 Viper service manual.Torque specSway Bar End Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 13Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleReinstall the front wheels, threading lug nuts by hand initially. Lower the vehicle until the wheels just contact the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer-specified value in a star pattern; verify the exact torque against the 2008 Viper service manual. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.
- 14Settle suspension and perform final checksBounce the front end of the vehicle several times to settle the suspension components into their normal operating position. Recheck all fastener torques, paying particular attention to the strut-to-knuckle bolts and upper strut tower nuts. Verify no brake lines, ABS wiring, or other components are pinched or under tension.
Reassembly
- Reassembly is covered in the main procedure steps 8-14.
- Ensure all electrical connectors and brake line brackets are reattached.
- Verify sway bar end links are properly oriented with bushings in correct position.
- Double-check all torque specifications before test driving vehicle.
Verification
- Perform a visual inspection of all strut mounting points from both engine bay and wheel well to ensure no loose fasteners or missing hardware.
- Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary, listening for unusual noises, binding, or interference.
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area, checking for unusual noises, vibrations, or steering pull.
- After initial test drive (5-10 miles), recheck torque on all strut mounting fasteners.
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment—strut replacement will alter suspension geometry and cause tire wear if not corrected.