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8.4L V10•RWD•MANUAL•gas
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suspension

Sway Bar Link - Rear

for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Easy
Time
1.0 h
Tools
10
Steps
9
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

Replace the rear sway bar end links on a 2008 Dodge Viper, which connect the sway bar to the suspension arms and reduce body roll during cornering.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Sway bar links are under tension when the suspension is loaded. Do not place body parts near the link during removal as it may spring loose.
⚠If fasteners are severely corroded, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak before removal to prevent stud breakage.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
  2. Chock the front wheels securely
  3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
  4. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at approved lift point
  5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands under rear subframe or axle
  6. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect sway bar link condition
    Locate the rear sway bar links connecting the sway bar to the rear suspension (lower control arm/knuckle mounting point per the factory service manual). Inspect both links for worn ball joints, torn boots, or damaged hardware. The links are roughly vertical and connect the sway bar to the rear suspension mounting point. Check for any signs of binding or seized hardware that may require penetrating oil.
  2. 2
    Apply penetrating oil if needed
    If fasteners show corrosion or the vehicle has been exposed to salt/moisture, spray penetrating oil on the upper and lower mounting nuts/bolts where the link attaches to the sway bar and suspension arm. Allow to soak for 10-15 minutes for best results. This step is optional but recommended for vehicles with over 50,000 miles or those in rust-prone climates.
  3. 3
    Remove upper link fastener
    The upper end of the link attaches to the sway bar with a stud and nut. Using the correct socket on the nut and holding the stud from spinning (many links use an internal hex/Torx drive in the stud end), remove the upper mounting nut. Verify the exact fastener sizes and stud anti-rotation feature against the factory service manual. If the ball joint spins freely, apply upward pressure on the link while loosening the nut.
  4. 4
    Remove lower link fastener
    The lower end of the link attaches to the suspension control arm with a similar stud and nut arrangement. Using the correct socket on the nut and holding the stud from spinning, remove the lower mounting nut (verify exact sizes against the factory service manual, as upper and lower may differ). Once removed, the link should drop free from both mounting points.
  5. 5
    Remove sway bar link
    Pull the sway bar link away from the mounting points. The link should separate easily once both fasteners are removed. Inspect the mounting points on both the sway bar and suspension arm for damage, excessive wear, or deformation. Clean the mounting surfaces with a wire brush if corrosion is present.
  6. 6
    Prepare new sway bar link
    Remove the new sway bar link from packaging and verify it matches the original in length and ball joint configuration. Check that the protective boots are intact and properly seated. Ensure all mounting hardware (nuts, washers if applicable) is included with the new link.
  7. 7
    Install new sway bar link
    Position the new sway bar link between the sway bar and suspension arm mounting points. Insert the upper stud through the sway bar mounting hole first, then align the lower stud with the suspension arm hole. Thread the upper nut onto the stud by hand to hold the link in position, then thread the lower nut by hand. Do not fully tighten yet.
  8. 8
    Torque link fasteners
    With both nuts started by hand, use the correct socket and torque wrench to tighten the upper nut to the factory-specified torque while holding the stud from rotating. Repeat for the lower nut. Confirm the exact torque value against the Viper factory service manual before final tightening. Tighten fasteners with the suspension at normal ride height or slightly compressed to prevent binding. The link should pivot freely at both ball joints after installation without excessive play.
  9. 9
    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 3 through 8 on the opposite rear sway bar link. Both links should be replaced as a pair to ensure balanced suspension performance. Verify both links are properly torqued and pivot freely at the ball joints.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall rear wheels and thread lug nuts by hand
  2. Lower vehicle until tires barely touch ground
  3. Torque wheel lug nuts to factory specification in a star pattern
  4. Lower vehicle completely and remove jack stands
  5. Remove wheel chocks
  6. Perform final torque check on wheel lug nuts after vehicle is on ground

Verification

  • Start vehicle and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary to verify no binding or unusual noises from rear suspension
  • Test drive vehicle at low speed and perform gentle turns to verify improved handling and no clunking noises
  • After 50-100 miles, re-inspect link fasteners for proper torque and check that ball joint boots remain intact
  • Verify no rattling or clunking noises from rear suspension over bumps or during cornering
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