suspension
Sway Bar Links - Front Pair
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Easy
Time
54 min
Tools
9
Steps
10
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the front sway bar end links on a 2008 Dodge Viper to eliminate clunking noises and restore proper suspension performance.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands on a level surface.
⚠Sway bar is under tension from vehicle weight. Control components as they are disconnected to prevent sudden movement.
⚠Inspect all suspension components for damage during service. Worn ball joints or control arm bushings can affect handling and safety.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
18mm wrench or socketEssential
18mm box-end wrench (second wrench)Essential
Torque wrenchEssential
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Parts
- Front sway bar end link (left) × 1 — Mopar 68069088AA or equivalent
- Front sway bar end link (right) × 1 — Mopar 68069088AA or equivalent
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated front jacking point
- Secure vehicle on jack stands placed at proper front lift points per owner's manual
- Remove front wheels completely and set aside
- Apply penetrating oil to sway bar link nuts and studs if corrosion is visible; allow 10-15 minutes to soak
Procedure
- 1Locate and inspect front sway bar linksThe front sway bar links connect the sway bar to the lower control arms. Visually inspect both links for torn boots, bent studs, or separated ball joints. Each link has a ball stud connection at the top (to sway bar) and bottom (to control arm).
- 2Remove driver side sway bar link upper nutPosition yourself to access the top of the left sway bar link where it connects to the sway bar. Use the appropriate wrench on the hex portion of the ball stud to hold it stationary, then use a second wrench or socket to remove the upper retaining nut (verify fastener/hex size against factory service data). The ball stud has a hex integrated into the shaft for this purpose. Keep the nut and any washers in order for reference.
- 3Remove driver side sway bar link lower nutMove to the lower connection point where the link attaches to the lower control arm. Again use an 18mm wrench on the ball stud hex to prevent rotation, and a second 18mm wrench or socket to remove the lower retaining nut. Remove any washers or bushings and note their order and orientation.
- 4Remove driver side sway bar linkPull the link free from both the sway bar and control arm mounting points. If the ball stud binds in the mount, gently tap the mounting ear with a soft hammer while pulling the link. Inspect the removed link for wear patterns, torn boots, or play in the ball joints.
- 5Remove passenger side sway bar linkRepeat the removal process for the right side link: remove the upper nut while holding the ball stud hex with an 18mm wrench, then remove the lower nut using the same technique. Remove the link and inspect. Note any differences in wear between left and right sides.
- 6Clean mounting surfacesUse a wire brush to clean the sway bar and control arm mounting points where the links attach. Remove any corrosion, dirt, or old thread lock compound from the mounting holes and surrounding areas. This ensures proper seating of the new links.
- 7Install driver side sway bar linkPosition the new left sway bar link with the ball studs inserted through both the sway bar mounting point (top) and the lower control arm mounting point (bottom). Install any washers or bushings in the same orientation as removed. Thread the upper and lower nuts onto the ball studs by hand, but do not tighten yet. Ensure the link moves freely and is not cross-threaded.
- 8Install passenger side sway bar linkPosition the new right sway bar link with ball studs through the sway bar and control arm mounting points. Install washers or bushings as they were on the original link. Thread both upper and lower nuts by hand without tightening. Verify proper alignment and free movement.
- 9Torque driver side sway bar link fastenersUsing the 18mm wrench to hold each ball stud hex stationary, torque the upper nut to the factory-specified value, then torque the lower nut to the same factory-specified value (verify against 2008 Viper service manual before final tightening). Apply medium-strength thread lock compound to the threads before final tightening if desired for extra security. Verify the link can still pivot freely at both ball joints after torquing.
- 10Torque passenger side sway bar link fastenersRepeat the torquing process on the right side: hold each ball stud hex with the appropriate wrench and torque both upper and lower nuts to the factory-specified value (verify against 2008 Viper service manual). Check for free pivot movement at both connections after tightening.
Reassembly
- Reinstall front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in star pattern
- Raise vehicle slightly with floor jack to remove jack stands
- Lower vehicle completely to ground
- Torque wheel lug nuts to specification (120 ft-lbs) in star pattern
- Remove wheel chocks
Verification
- Start vehicle and turn steering wheel fully left and right while stationary to verify no binding or interference
- Test drive vehicle at low speed over small bumps and through turns to confirm elimination of clunking or rattling noises
- After 50-100 miles of driving, re-check torque on all four sway bar link nuts to ensure they have not loosened
- Verify no new suspension noises have appeared and handling feels stable