steering
Tie Rod End - Outer
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
42 min
Tools
13
Steps
12
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2008 Dodge Viper, requiring removal of the tie rod end from the steering knuckle and inner tie rod, followed by installation and alignment.
Warnings
⚠Vehicle will require a professional wheel alignment after this repair. Do not drive at highway speeds or for extended distances before alignment is performed.
⚠Use only jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
ℹ️Marking the tie rod position before removal will provide a rough starting point for reassembly, but professional alignment is still required.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (rated for 3+ tons)Essential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (0-150 ft-lb range)Essential
19mm socketEssential
Locking pliers or vise gripsEssential
Marker or paint penEssential
Ruler or tape measureEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification (Mopar 68003706AA or equivalent)
- Outer tie rod end castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification if not included with tie rod end
- Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking point
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at front frame rail or subframe mounting points
- Remove front wheel completely on the side being serviced
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod positionBefore removing the outer tie rod end, use a marker or paint pen to mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads. Additionally, measure and record the distance from the inner tie rod jam nut to the outer tie rod end center (stud location). This provides a reference point for initial installation, though alignment will still be required.
- 2Remove cotter pin and castle nutLocate the outer tie rod end stud where it connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Use the correct size socket (verify against the actual castle nut, commonly 19-21mm) to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud. Do not discard the nut if the replacement tie rod end does not include a new one.
- 3Separate tie rod end from knuckleUsing a tie rod end separator (pickle fork style) or ball joint separator tool, separate the outer tie rod end stud from the steering knuckle. Position the separator between the tie rod end and knuckle, then drive or force the taper to break free. The tie rod end should pop out of the knuckle taper. If using a pickle fork, note that it may damage the tie rod end boot (acceptable since part is being replaced).⚠Striking the knuckle directly with a hammer can damage steering components. Use proper separation tools.
- 4Loosen jam nutLocate the jam nut (lock nut) where the outer tie rod end threads onto the inner tie rod. This jam nut is typically 1-1/4" or 32mm. Use a large adjustable wrench or appropriate open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut several turns, but do not remove it completely yet. You may need to use penetrating oil if the threads are corroded.
- 5Remove outer tie rod endWhile holding the inner tie rod shaft steady with locking pliers or vise grips (clamp on the flat section near the boot, not on threads), unthread the outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand or with a wrench on the tie rod end body. Count the number of full turns required to remove it, which will help during installation. Once removed, slide the jam nut off the old tie rod end.
- 6Clean and inspect threadsUse a wire brush to clean the threads on the inner tie rod. Inspect the threads for damage or excessive wear. Check the inner tie rod boot for tears or damage; if compromised, the inner tie rod assembly should also be replaced. Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads if available.
- 7Install new outer tie rod endSlide the jam nut onto the new outer tie rod end threads first. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod clockwise, turning it the same number of turns recorded during removal, or until it aligns with the reference marks made in Step 1. The goal is to achieve approximately the same overall length as before removal.
- 8Install tie rod end into knuckleInsert the outer tie rod end stud into the taper hole in the steering knuckle. Ensure the stud seats fully into the taper. Install the new castle nut (or cleaned original if reusing) onto the stud and tighten by hand until snug.
- 9Torque castle nut and install cotter pinUsing a torque wrench and 19mm socket, torque the castle nut to the factory-specified value (verify exact spec in 2008 Viper service manual before final assembly). If the castle nut slots do not align with the stud cotter pin hole, tighten the nut further (up to 1/6 additional turn) until the next slot aligns. Never loosen the nut to achieve alignment. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud, then bend the ends of the cotter pin to secure.
- 10Tighten jam nutWhile holding the outer tie rod end body steady with a wrench to prevent it from rotating, tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end using a large adjustable wrench. Torque the jam nut to the factory-specified value (verify exact spec in 2008 Viper service manual before final assembly). Ensure the outer tie rod end has not rotated during this process.
- 11Reinstall wheelReinstall the wheel onto the hub, threading lug nuts by hand until snug. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (to prevent wheel rotation), then torque the lug nuts to the factory-specified value (verify exact spec in 2008 Viper service manual) in a star pattern.
- 12Lower vehicle and final checksFully lower the vehicle to the ground and remove jack stands and floor jack. Perform a final torque check on all lug nuts. Gently rock the steering wheel left and right while stationary to ensure the tie rod end is properly seated and there are no unusual noises or binding.
Reassembly
- Installation is detailed in the steps above
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification before driving
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately
Verification
- Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent through castle nut
- Verify jam nut is tight against outer tie rod end body
- Check that tie rod end stud moves smoothly in its socket with no binding when steering is turned (engine off)
- Verify wheel lug nuts are torqued properly
- Test drive at low speed in a safe area to confirm steering response before scheduling alignment
- Have wheel alignment performed by qualified technician and verify toe settings are within specification