30K Service

Comprehensive 30,000-mile scheduled maintenance service including engine oil and filter change, chassis lubrication, fluid level checks, filter replacements, and complete safety inspection.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Engine oil filter × 1 — Motorcraft FL-1A or equivalent
• Engine air filter × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Fuel filter (inline) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• PCV valve × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Chassis grease (NLGI #2) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• 10W-30 or 10W-40 conventional engine oil — 5 qt
• Type F ATF (automatic transmission) — 0.5 qt
• 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil (rear differential) — 0.25 qt
• Ethylene glycol green 50/50 coolant — 1 qt
• DOT 3 brake fluid — 0.1 qt
• Windshield washer fluid — 2 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake firmly.
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
3. Allow engine to cool completely if recently driven (minimum 1 hour).
4. Gather all tools, parts, and fluids before beginning work.
5. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support on jack stands at frame rails.
6. Verify vehicle is stable before working underneath.

Procedure

1. 1

   Drain engine oil
   Position drain pan under oil pan drain plug located at rear passenger side of oil pan. Remove drain plug using appropriate wrench and allow oil to drain completely (approximately 5-10 minutes). Inspect drain plug threads and washer for damage. Clean drain plug with shop rag and reinstall drain plug hand-tight, then snug with wrench. Do not overtighten.
2. 2

   Replace oil filter
   Locate oil filter on driver side of engine block. Position drain pan underneath filter. Use oil filter wrench to loosen and remove old filter by turning counterclockwise. Verify old filter gasket came off with filter and did not remain stuck to engine block mounting surface. Clean mounting surface with shop rag. Apply thin coat of fresh engine oil to new filter gasket. Thread new filter on by hand until gasket contacts mounting surface, then tighten an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn per filter manufacturer instructions.
3. 3

   Fill engine with oil and check level
   Lower vehicle to ground. Remove oil filler cap on driver side valve cover. Using funnel, add approximately 4.5 quarts of 10W-30 or 10W-40 conventional engine oil, then check the dipstick and add to reach the FULL mark (total capacity approximately 5 quarts with filter). Replace oil filler cap. Start engine and let idle for 1 minute, watching for oil pressure indication on gauge. Shut off engine and wait 2 minutes. Check oil level on dipstick and add oil as necessary to bring level to FULL mark.
4. 4

   Replace engine air filter
   Open hood and locate air cleaner assembly on top of carburetor. Remove air cleaner wing nut or clips (typically 1 center wing nut). Lift off air cleaner top cover. Remove old air filter element and inspect air cleaner housing for debris. Clean housing interior with shop rag if dirty. Install new air filter element ensuring proper seating. Reinstall air cleaner top cover and secure with wing nut or clips.
5. 5

   Replace fuel filter
   Locate inline fuel filter between fuel pump and carburetor on driver side of engine. Place shop rags around filter to catch fuel spillage. Using two wrenches, hold fuel line fitting while loosening filter connection on inlet side. Disconnect inlet fuel line. Repeat for outlet side. Note direction of fuel flow arrow on old filter. Install new fuel filter with arrow pointing toward carburetor. Hand-tighten connections, then snug with wrench. Do not overtighten as the fittings can strip or the lines can be damaged. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
6. 6

   Replace PCV valve
   Locate PCV valve in rubber grommet on driver side valve cover (typically near rear). Pull PCV valve straight up and out of grommet with twisting motion. Disconnect hose from top of PCV valve by pulling off. Inspect grommet for cracks or deterioration and replace if damaged. Connect hose to new PCV valve and press valve firmly into grommet until fully seated.
7. 7

   Lubricate chassis grease fittings
   Raise vehicle on jack stands. Locate all grease fittings (zerks): 4 fittings on steering linkage (2 on tie rod ends, 2 on drag link ends), 2 fittings on upper ball joints, 2 fittings on lower ball joints, 2 fittings on spring shackles, and 1 fitting on driveshaft slip yoke. Clean each fitting with shop rag. Attach grease gun and pump NLGI #2 chassis grease into each fitting until new grease appears at component seal or slight resistance is felt (typically 2-3 pumps per fitting). Wipe excess grease from fittings.
8. 8

   Inspect and adjust drive belts
   With engine off and cool, inspect fan belt and alternator belt for cracks, glazing, or fraying. Check belt tension by pressing firmly on belt midway between pulleys - deflection should be approximately 1/2 inch. To adjust tension, loosen alternator mounting bolts, pry alternator away from engine to tighten belt, then retighten mounting bolts. Replace belts if worn or damaged.
9. 9

   Check and top off all fluid levels
   Check coolant level in radiator (engine cold) - should be 1 inch below filler neck. Add 50/50 coolant mix if low. Check brake master cylinder reservoir on firewall - fluid should be 1/4 inch from top. Add DOT 3 if needed. If equipped with power steering, check power steering reservoir on pump - fluid should reach FULL COLD mark. Add Type F ATF if needed. If equipped with automatic transmission, check fluid with engine warm and running in Park - should be in HOT range on dipstick. Add Type F ATF if needed. Check windshield washer reservoir and fill with washer fluid. Verified detail (1972 F-100 with manual steering was standard; power steering was optional. This should be qualified or removed if not universally applicable to all 1972 F-100 configurations.): If equipped with power steering, check reservoir on pump - fluid should reach FULL COLD mark. Add Type F ATF if needed. Verified detail (This assumes an automatic transmission, but the 1972 F-100 was commonly equipped with a 3- or 4-speed manual transmission. If manual, there is no ATF dipstick and gear oil level should be checked at a fill plug instead. Step should be conditional on transmission type.): If equipped with an automatic transmission, check fluid with engine warm and running in Park - should be in HOT range on dipstick. Add Type F ATF if needed. If equipped with a manual transmission, check gear oil level at the fill plug and top off with the specified gear lubricant.
10. 10

    Inspect rear differential fluid level
    Locate rear differential fill plug on front face of differential housing at approximately axle centerline height. Clean area around plug. Remove fill plug using appropriate wrench or socket. Fluid level should be at bottom of fill plug hole (fluid should just touch your finger inserted into hole). If low, add 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil (meeting Ford spec) using pump or squeeze bottle until fluid reaches proper level. If the axle is a limited-slip (Traction-Lok) unit, add the required friction modifier additive. Clean and reinstall fill plug.
11. 11

    Inspect tires and adjust pressure
    Visually inspect all tires for abnormal wear patterns, cuts, bulges, or embedded objects. Check tire tread depth - should be minimum 2/32 inch remaining. Using tire pressure gauge, check pressure in all 4 tires when cold. Inflate to the pressure specified on the vehicle tire information decal (glovebox or door area) or in the owner's manual for the installed tire size and load rating. Check spare tire pressure and condition.
12. 12

    Inspect brakes and suspension
    With vehicle on jack stands and wheels removed, inspect brake linings through inspection holes in backing plates for drum brakes (standard), or if equipped with optional front disc brakes, visually inspect pad thickness. Minimum lining thickness is 1/16 inch above rivets or shoe. Inspect brake lines and hoses for leaks, cracks, or damage. Check wheel bearings for play by grasping tire at top and bottom and attempting to rock it. Slight movement is normal; excessive play indicates adjustment needed. Inspect suspension components for wear, damage, or loose fasteners. Reinstall wheels.
13. 13

    Clean battery terminals and check connections
    Inspect battery case for cracks or damage. Check electrolyte level in each cell (if non-sealed battery) - should cover plates. Add distilled water if low. Inspect battery terminals for corrosion. If corroded, disconnect negative cable first, then positive. Clean terminals and cable ends with battery terminal brush and baking soda/water solution. Rinse with water and dry. Reconnect positive cable first, then negative. Ensure connections are tight.
14. 14

    Test operation and perform final inspection
    Start engine and verify proper oil pressure indication. Check for oil leaks around filter and drain plug. Check for fuel leaks at fuel filter connections. Test operation of all lights (headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals). Test windshield wipers and washer function. Test horn operation. Road test vehicle to verify proper operation of engine, transmission, brakes, and steering. Listen for unusual noises.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all drain plugs, fill plugs, and caps are properly reinstalled and tightened.
2. Verify no tools or shop rags were left in engine compartment.
3. Lower vehicle from jack stands and remove wheel chocks.
4. Reset service interval reminder if equipped.

Verification

• Oil level reads FULL on dipstick with engine off and cool.
• No fluid leaks visible under vehicle after running engine and road test.
• All fluid levels are at proper marks on reservoirs and dipsticks.
• Engine idles smoothly with normal oil pressure indication.
• All lights, wipers, and accessories function properly.
• Tire pressures are at specification.
• No unusual noises during road test.

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