Ball Joint - Lower

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the lower ball joint on a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8, requiring suspension disassembly and pressing or riveting operations.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Lower ball joint × 1 — Use OEM specification or Moog K778
• Castle nut for ball joint stud × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at frame rail
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at frame rails behind front axle
6. Remove front wheel and tire assembly
7. Spray all suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak 15-20 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Support lower control arm
   Verify the front spring configuration for this 1972 F-100 before proceeding. Position the floor jack to support the control arm that carries the coil spring load, raising it just enough to make contact and slightly compress the spring so the spring stays controlled and tension is removed from the ball joint throughout the procedure.
2. 2

   Remove brake caliper
   If the vehicle is equipped with front disc brakes, remove the bolts securing the brake caliper to the spindle (verify count against the factory manual). Note: many 1972 F-100 trucks have front drum brakes; if so, remove the drum and hub assembly instead. Lift caliper off rotor and suspend it from the frame with wire or a bungee cord. Do not let caliper hang by the brake hose.
3. 3

   Remove castle nut from lower ball joint stud
   Remove cotter pin from castle nut on lower ball joint stud at the spindle. Using a socket and breaker bar, remove the castle nut completely. Keep the nut as a reference if purchasing new hardware.
4. 4

   Separate ball joint from spindle
   Insert ball joint separator (pickle fork) between the lower control arm and spindle at the ball joint taper. Strike the separator firmly with a hammer to break the taper fit. Alternatively, use a ball joint press-type separator. Once the taper is broken, the spindle will drop down. Control the descent with the jack under the lower control arm.
5. 5

   Remove spindle assembly
   With the lower ball joint separated, pivot the spindle upward and outward. You may need to separate the upper ball joint as well for clearance. If so, remove the upper ball joint castle nut and cotter pin, then use the ball joint separator on the upper joint. Remove the entire spindle and set aside on a clean surface.
6. 6

   Remove rivets securing ball joint to control arm
   The factory lower ball joint is secured to the lower control arm with 3 rivets. Using a 1/2" drill bit, drill through the rivet heads to remove them. Alternatively, use a cold chisel and hammer or air chisel to cut off the rivet heads. Once heads are removed, drive the rivet shanks out with a punch and hammer. Clean the mounting surface with a wire brush.
7. 7

   Remove old ball joint from control arm
   With rivets removed, the ball joint should pull free from the control arm. If the joint is press-fit into the arm bore, use a ball joint press or C-clamp arrangement to press it out from below. Remove the joint and inspect the control arm bore for damage or deformation.
8. 8

   Install new ball joint into control arm
   Position the new lower ball joint into the control arm with the stud pointing downward. Most replacement ball joints mount with the bolt heads facing up through the control arm. Align the bolt holes in the joint with the rivet holes in the control arm (holes may need slight enlargement if undersized).
9. 9

   Secure ball joint with bolts
   Insert the 3 mounting bolts (included with replacement ball joint) through the control arm from the top, passing through the ball joint flange below. Thread nuts onto bolts from below. Tighten bolts in a cross pattern to pull the joint firmly against the control arm. Torque mounting bolts to the ball joint manufacturer's specification (verify exact value from the instructions supplied with the replacement joint before final tightening).
10. 10

    Reinstall spindle assembly
    If upper ball joint was separated, reconnect it first. Position the spindle over the lower ball joint stud and guide the stud through the hole in the spindle. Use the floor jack to raise the lower control arm and align the ball joint stud fully through the spindle boss.
11. 11

    Install and torque castle nut
    Thread the new castle nut onto the lower ball joint stud. Torque the castle nut to 100-120 ft-lb per factory specification. Continue tightening as needed (do not back off) to align the next castle slot with the hole in the stud. Insert a new cotter pin through the stud and bend the ends to secure. Verified detail (The 80 ft-lb lower ball joint stud castle nut torque is a guess and should be verified against the Ford factory service manual for the 1972 F-100; ball joint stud nut specs on this era truck are often higher (commonly around 90-110 ft-lb range).): Thread the new castle nut onto the lower ball joint stud. Torque the castle nut to the factory specification for the 1972 F-100 (verify exact value in the Ford shop manual before tightening).
12. 12

    Reinstall brake caliper
    Position brake caliper over rotor and align with mounting holes on spindle. Install the caliper mounting bolts and torque to the factory specification for the 1972 F-100 front disc brake caliper (verify bolt count and torque value in the Ford shop manual).
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Thread lug nuts on by hand, then snug them in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove jack stands. With vehicle weight on the ground, torque lug nuts to the factory specification for the 1972 F-100 (verify value, commonly in the 85-115 ft-lb range) in a star pattern. Verified detail (100 ft-lb is too high for 1972 F-100 wheel lug nuts. Factory specification for this year/model is typically 70-85 ft-lb for the standard 1/2" wheel studs.): With vehicle weight on the ground, torque lug nuts to 70-85 ft-lb in a star pattern.

Reassembly

1. Repeat procedure on opposite side if both lower ball joints require replacement
2. After driving 50-100 miles, recheck all fasteners for proper torque
3. Have front end alignment checked and adjusted at a qualified shop after ball joint replacement

Verification

• With vehicle on ground, grasp tire at top and bottom and attempt to rock it in and out. There should be no play or clunking from the lower ball joint
• Visually inspect that cotter pin is properly installed and bent in castle nut
• Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises or vibrations from front suspension
• Verify steering response is normal with no loose or wandering feeling

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