Brake Caliper Bracket

Remove and replace the front disc brake caliper bracket (mounting bracket) on a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8, requiring caliper removal and brake bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper bracket × 1 — Use OEM specification or Raybestos/Wagner equivalent
• Caliper bracket mounting bolts (if corroded) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Copper crush washers for brake line (if disconnecting) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 brake fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and place transmission in Park (automatic) or 1st gear (manual).
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground.
4. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack at designated front crossmember jacking point.
5. Place jack stands under frame rails behind front wheels and lower vehicle onto stands.
6. Remove front wheel completely.
7. Inspect brake system for fluid leaks, damaged lines, or excessive corrosion before proceeding.
8. Apply penetrating oil to caliper bracket mounting bolts and allow to soak if bolts appear corroded.

Procedure

1. 1

   Compress caliper piston
   Before removing the caliper, use a C-clamp or brake piston tool to slowly compress the caliper piston back into its bore. Position the clamp against the back of the caliper body and the outer brake pad surface. This creates clearance and prevents brake fluid overflow at the master cylinder. Check the master cylinder reservoir and remove fluid with a turkey baster if it is near the MAX line.
2. 2

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the caliper retaining key/support spring and retaining pin/screw on the caliper assembly. On the 1972 F-100 the floating caliper is held by a caliper support key and spring rather than threaded slide bolts. Drive out the retaining key/pin per the factory service manual to free the caliper. Using the appropriate wrench or socket, remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. Keep these bolts as they will be reused.
3. 3

   Support caliper assembly
   Carefully lift the caliper away from the rotor and bracket. Do NOT let it hang by the rubber brake hose. Use a caliper hanger hooked to the coil spring or suspension component, or use mechanic's wire to secure the caliper in a suspended position above the work area. Ensure there is no tension on the brake hose.
4. 4

   Remove brake pads and hardware
   Remove the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket. Remove any anti-rattle clips, shims, or pad retaining springs attached to the bracket. Keep track of the orientation of all hardware for correct reassembly. Inspect pads for uneven wear which may indicate a seized caliper.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket mounting bolts
   Locate the two large caliper anchor plate (bracket) mounting bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle/spindle. Verify head size and factory torque specification against the 1972 Ford F-100 shop manual before removal, as these are high-torque fasteners. Use a 3/4" socket with breaker bar to break these bolts loose. Remove both bolts completely and keep them unless they are damaged or excessively corroded.
6. 6

   Remove caliper bracket
   Pull the caliper bracket straight away from the steering knuckle/spindle. If the bracket is stuck due to corrosion, tap it gently with a rubber mallet. Do not pry against the rotor or damage the mounting surfaces on the spindle.
7. 7

   Clean mounting surfaces
   Use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the caliper bracket mounting surface on the steering knuckle/spindle. Remove all rust, corrosion, and old thread locking compound. Clean the bracket mounting bolt threads and holes. If threads are damaged, use a thread chaser or tap to clean them. The mounting surface must be flat and clean for proper caliper alignment.
8. 8

   Install new caliper bracket
   Position the new caliper bracket onto the steering knuckle/spindle, aligning the two mounting bolt holes. Verify the bracket is oriented correctly with the caliper mounting surfaces facing outward. Start both bracket mounting bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement.
9. 9

   Torque caliper bracket bolts
   Using a torque wrench, tighten the two caliper bracket mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern. Torque these bolts to the specified value. Consult the 1972 Ford F-100 factory service manual for the caliper anchor plate (bracket) mounting bolt torque specification before final tightening. Do not rely on an assumed value for this safety-critical brake fastener. Verify both bolts are equally tightened.
10. 10

    Install brake pads and hardware
    Install the anti-rattle clips, shims, and pad retaining hardware onto the new caliper bracket in the same orientation as removed. Install the inner and outer brake pads into the bracket, ensuring they are properly seated in the retaining clips. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature brake grease to pad slide points if specified by pad manufacturer.
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper assembly
    Remove the caliper from its supported position. Carefully position the caliper over the rotor and brake pads, seating it onto the bracket abutments. Reinstall the caliper support key and spring, then drive in the retaining pin/key to secure the caliper per the factory service manual.
12. 12

    Torque caliper mounting bolts
    Using a torque wrench, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to the specified value. Due to lack of factory specification in the database, use 25-35 ft-lbs as the standard torque range for these caliper mounting bolts. Do not overtighten as this can damage the slider mechanism. Verify the caliper support key and retaining pin/screw are fully seated and secured per the factory service manual. This caliper uses a key/spring retention system rather than threaded slider bolts, so torque values for slide bolts do not apply. Confirm the caliper is not loose on the bracket abutments.
13. 13

    Bleed brake system
    Attach a clear tube to the brake bleeder valve on the caliper and submerge the other end in a container with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-5 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder valve 1/4 turn to release fluid and air, then close before pedal reaches the floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream. Top off master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid between bleedings.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel onto the hub, starting all lug nuts by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a wrench until snug but not fully torqued. Raise vehicle slightly with floor jack, remove jack stands, and lower vehicle to ground. Torque lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs in a star pattern.

Reassembly

1. Pump brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until firm pedal pressure is restored before attempting to move vehicle.
2. Check master cylinder reservoir and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid to MAX line.
3. Inspect for any brake fluid leaks around caliper, bracket, and brake line connections.
4. Repeat procedure on opposite side if both caliper brackets are being replaced to ensure even braking performance.

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal multiple times. Pedal should become firm and not sink to floor. If pedal remains soft, additional bleeding is required.
• Start engine and apply brakes firmly. Pedal should not sink and should feel firm with consistent pressure.
• Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area. Test brakes at 5-10 mph to verify proper braking function. Vehicle should stop straight without pulling to either side.
• After test drive, recheck all caliper bracket and caliper mounting bolts for tightness.
• Inspect for any brake fluid leaks around all connections.
• Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir and top off if needed.

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