CV Boot - Outer

This procedure replaces the outer CV boot on a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8. Note: This truck uses a solid front axle with U-joints, not CV joints - this procedure assumes an aftermarket IFS conversion kit has been installed.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer CV boot kit (includes boot, clamps, grease) × 1 — Use OEM specification or aftermarket IFS kit manufacturer specification
• Axle nut (one-time use recommended) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• CV joint grease × 1 — Moly-based CV grease, typically included in boot kit

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
4. Loosen (but do not remove) the front axle nut while vehicle is on ground - this nut is typically torqued to 150-200 ft-lb
5. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at frame rail or designated lift point
6. Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at frame rails
7. Remove front wheel completely

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove axle nut and washer
   With the wheel removed and the axle nut already loosened, completely remove the axle nut and washer. Set aside the washer for potential reuse, but plan to use a new axle nut for reassembly. Clean any debris from the axle threads with a wire brush.
2. 2

   Separate outer tie rod end
   Locate the outer tie rod end connected to the steering knuckle. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tie rod end stud. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle. Strike the separator firmly with a hammer to break the taper - expect 3-5 strikes.
3. 3

   Separate lower ball joint (if necessary)
   Depending on your IFS kit configuration, you may need to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle to provide clearance for axle removal. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut, then use the ball joint separator to break the taper. This step may not be required on all IFS conversion kits - assess clearance before proceeding.
   ⚠Support the lower control arm with a jack or stand before separating the ball joint to prevent sudden dropping of suspension components.
4. 4

   Remove CV axle from hub
   With the axle nut removed and steering components separated, pull the steering knuckle outward and push the CV axle shaft out of the hub bearing. You may need to tap the end of the axle shaft with a rubber mallet or use a puller if it's stuck. The outer CV joint should now be accessible and movable.
5. 5

   Mark CV joint orientation
   Before removing the boot, use a paint marker or scribe to mark the orientation of the outer CV joint housing relative to the axle shaft. This ensures proper reassembly alignment and prevents potential vibration issues.
6. 6

   Remove outer boot clamps
   Locate the two clamps securing the outer CV boot - one at the CV joint housing end and one at the axle shaft end. Use side cutters or a boot clamp removal tool to cut and remove both clamps. If using reusable clamps, carefully pry the tabs open with CV boot clamp pliers.
7. 7

   Slide boot back and clean joint
   Slide the damaged boot back toward the inner joint to expose the outer CV joint completely. Use shop rags to wipe away all old grease from the CV joint housing, balls, cage, and axle shaft. Inspect the joint for wear, pitting, or damage. If the joint shows wear, it should be replaced rather than just re-booted.
8. 8

   Remove old boot
   Slide the old boot completely off the axle shaft toward the inner joint. Clean the boot sealing surfaces on both the axle shaft and outer CV joint housing with shop rags and solvent if necessary. Remove all traces of old grease and debris.
9. 9

   Install new boot onto axle shaft
   Slide the new CV boot onto the axle shaft from the inner joint side, small end first. Position it on the shaft but do not install the shaft-side clamp yet. Ensure the boot is not twisted and the sealing lip area is clean.
10. 10

    Pack CV joint with grease
    Pack the outer CV joint completely with the CV grease supplied in the boot kit (typically 3-4 ounces). Work grease into the ball tracks, cage, and around all balls. Also pack grease into the boot itself, filling it approximately half full. Proper grease quantity is critical for joint longevity.
11. 11

    Position boot and install clamps
    Slide the new boot into position over the outer CV joint housing, ensuring it seats properly in both grooves (shaft groove and housing groove). Align the boot so it is not twisted or stretched. Install the new clamps at both ends - position the shaft-side clamp first and crimp it securely with CV boot clamp pliers, then install and crimp the housing-side clamp. Ensure clamps are tight and tabs are fully folded.
12. 12

    Reinstall CV axle into hub
    Apply a thin layer of clean grease to the axle splines. Pull the steering knuckle outward and guide the CV axle shaft splines into the hub bearing. Push firmly until the shaft is fully seated. Install the washer and thread the new axle nut onto the shaft by hand, but do not tighten yet.
13. 13

    Reconnect steering and suspension components
    Reconnect the lower ball joint (if separated) by lifting the control arm and seating the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification per your IFS kit instructions. Install a new cotter pin. Reconnect the outer tie rod end in the same manner, torquing the castle nut and installing a new cotter pin.
14. 14

    Install wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel onto the hub and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the full weight is still on the jack stands. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern to snug. Lower the vehicle completely to the ground and remove jack stands.
15. 15

    Perform final torquing
    With the vehicle on the ground and full weight on the suspension, torque the axle/spindle nut to specification per your specific IFS kit documentation (do not assume a generic value; Mustang II-style kits vary significantly). Torque the lug nuts to specification (typically 85-100 ft-lb, verify against your hub/wheel setup) in a star pattern. Double-check that all fasteners are secure. Verified detail (1972 F-100 lug nut torque specification is typically 140 ft-lb for factory steel wheels with 9/16" studs, not 100-125 ft-lb. Also, star pattern terminology is problematic for potential 8-lug configuration.): Torque the lug nuts to 140 ft-lb in a criss-cross pattern (consult IFS kit documentation if aftermarket hubs/studs were installed as torque may vary). Verified detail (The specified torque wrench in the tools list is rated 0-150 ft-lb, which is adequate, but the axle nut torque of 150-200 ft-lb exceeds the listed torque wrench capacity, creating an internal inconsistency.): Torque the lug nuts to specification (typically 85-100 ft-lb) in a star pattern.

Reassembly

1. Verify all suspension and steering components are properly reconnected and torqued
2. Check that the CV boot is properly seated with no twists or kinks
3. Ensure both boot clamps are securely crimped and not loose
4. Confirm the axle nut is properly torqued with vehicle weight on suspension

Verification

• Turn the steering wheel full lock left and right while stationary to verify no binding or interference
• Test drive vehicle at low speed and listen for clicking noises during turns - clicking indicates CV joint damage or insufficient grease
• Inspect the new boot after test drive for leaks, tears, or grease seepage
• Verify steering response is normal with no looseness or wandering
• Re-check axle nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving

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