Front Brake Pad Replacement

This procedure replaces the front disc brake pads on a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8, including caliper service and hardware inspection.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (4 pads total) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Brake hardware kit (clips, springs, shims) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 brake fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake firmly.
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels on both sides.
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground (do not remove yet).
4. Remove approximately 1/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or fluid transfer pump to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons. Store in clean container.
5. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack using approved lift point on front axle or frame.
6. Place jack stands under frame rails behind front axle. Lower vehicle weight onto jack stands.
7. Remove front wheel lug nuts completely and remove both front wheels.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect brake system condition
   Before disassembly, inspect the brake rotor surface for deep scoring, cracks, or excessive wear. Check brake hoses for cracks, bulges, or fluid leaks. Measure rotor thickness if micrometer available (minimum thickness typically stamped on rotor hat). If rotors are damaged beyond light scoring or below minimum thickness, they must be replaced or resurfaced before installing new pads. Inspect caliper mounting bracket and slide pins for damage or excessive wear.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   On the Kelsey-Hayes fixed caliper, the brake pads are retained by pins or keys and can typically be removed without unbolting the caliper. Locate and remove the pad retaining pins/keys and anti-rattle springs to free the pads. If caliper removal is required, locate the two caliper mounting bolts that secure the caliper to the mounting bracket. These are typically located on the rear side of the caliper assembly. Using appropriate socket or wrench, remove both caliper mounting bolts completely.
3. 3

   Remove caliper from rotor
   On a fixed caliper, pads are typically removed with the caliper still bolted in place after removing the retaining pins/keys. If the caliper must be removed for service, support it with wire or a bungee cord. Never allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose, as this can damage the hose internally and cause brake failure. The entire caliper assembly lifts straight off the rotor once the mounting bolts are removed. Carefully lift the caliper straight up and away from the brake rotor.
4. 4

   Remove old brake pads
   With the caliper removed, the brake pads will be visible in the caliper mounting bracket. Remove the outer brake pad and inner brake pad from the bracket. Note the position and orientation of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or springs for reinstallation. Remove and discard all old brake hardware clips from the mounting bracket.
5. 5

   Clean caliper mounting bracket and inspect hardware
   Spray brake cleaner liberally on the caliper mounting bracket, focusing on the pad slide surfaces and bolt holes. Use a wire brush to remove rust, corrosion, and old brake dust from the areas where pads contact the bracket. Inspect the bracket for cracks or damage. Clean the caliper slide pin bores thoroughly. Do not use compressed air for cleaning due to asbestos hazard.
6. 6

   Inspect and service caliper slide pins
   Inspect the caliper mounting bolts and bushings for corrosion, wear, or damage. If corroded or worn, they must be replaced. Clean bolts with brake cleaner and wipe dry. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the bolt threads and any caliper mounting bushings. Do not use petroleum-based grease as it will damage rubber components. This fixed caliper has no slide pins. Instead, inspect the pad retaining pins/keys and anti-rattle springs for corrosion, wear, or damage and replace as needed. Clean components with brake cleaner and wipe dry.
7. 7

   Compress caliper piston
   On this fixed 4-piston caliper, carefully push each pair of opposed pistons back into their bores using a flat tool or pad spreader while watching the master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow. Retract pistons only enough to allow the new pads to fit. Place the clamp against the back of the caliper body and against the old inner brake pad (or a block of wood) over the piston. Tighten slowly and watch the master cylinder reservoir to ensure it does not overflow. This step is necessary to create clearance for the thicker new brake pads. With the caliper still hanging safely, use a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool to slowly compress both caliper pistons fully into their bores. The caliper has two pistons, one on each side of the rotor, and both pistons must be compressed. Compress one piston at a time, working alternately to maintain even pressure.
8. 8

   Install new brake hardware
   Install the new anti-rattle clips and hardware springs from the brake hardware kit onto the caliper mounting bracket according to the kit instructions. Ensure all clips are fully seated and secure. These clips prevent pad rattle and ensure proper pad positioning.
9. 9

   Install new brake pads
   Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to the back (non-friction side) of each brake pad and to the pad ears that contact the mounting bracket. Do not get grease on the friction material surface. Install the inner and outer brake pads into the caliper mounting bracket, ensuring they are properly seated in the hardware clips. The friction material should face the brake rotor. If pads have wear indicators (metal tabs), position them according to manufacturer instructions (typically on the inner pad, top position).
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper
    Remove the caliper from its hanging position. Carefully position the caliper over the new brake pads and rotor. Align the caliper mounting holes with the mounting bracket holes. Insert the caliper mounting bolts through the caliper and thread into the mounting bracket. Apply anti-seize compound to the mounting bolt threads if desired.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Torque caliper slide pin bolts
    Thread both caliper mounting bolts by hand until snug. Using a torque wrench, tighten each caliper mounting bolt to 95.0 Nm (70 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern. Verify both bolts are torqued correctly. These bolts are critical for caliper retention and proper brake function.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Repeat for opposite side
    Repeat steps 2 through 11 for the opposite front wheel. Ensure all hardware, pads, and fasteners are installed correctly on both sides before proceeding.
13. 13

    Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
    Position each front wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Using a torque wrench, tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to the Ford-specified value for this vehicle (verify in the shop manual; typically approximately 85-115 lb-ft for the 1972 F-100). This ensures even pressure distribution and proper wheel seating. If the caliper was unbolted from the spindle for service, follow the factory torque spec on reinstallation; caliper removal is not required for pad replacement on this fixed-caliper design.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts142.4 Nm (105 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Restore brake fluid level
    Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Add DOT 3 brake fluid to bring the level to approximately 1/4 inch below the top of the master cylinder reservoir. Do not overfill. Use only new brake fluid from a sealed container. Wipe up any spills immediately. Reinstall reservoir cap securely.
15. 15

    Bed brake pads
    Before removing jack stands, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until pedal feels firm. This repositions the caliper pistons against the new pads. Check pedal travel - it should be firm and consistent. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely. Perform 10-15 moderate stops from 30-40 mph to bed the new pads to the rotors, allowing 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles to allow proper pad break-in.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all caliper slide pin bolts are torqued to specification before driving.
2. Verify brake pedal is firm and does not sink to the floor before moving vehicle.
3. Check all brake line connections for leaks after testing brakes.
4. Retorque wheel lug nuts to specification after driving 50-100 miles.

Verification

• Pump brake pedal several times - pedal should become firm within 3-4 pumps and hold pressure without sinking.
• With engine running, apply firm brake pressure for 30 seconds - pedal should not sink or feel spongy.
• Perform low-speed test stop in safe area (5-10 mph) to verify brakes engage properly and vehicle stops straight without pulling to either side.
• Inspect around wheels for any brake fluid leaks while someone applies brake pedal pressure.
• After first test drive, recheck wheel lug nut torque and caliper bolt tightness.
• Verify master cylinder fluid level is at MAX line and cap is secure.
• Listen for any unusual noises during brake application (squealing may be normal for first few stops as pads bed in).

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