Head Gaskets - Both

Complete removal and replacement of both cylinder head gaskets on the 302ci V8, including cylinder head removal, cleaning, inspection, and reinstallation with new gaskets.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Cylinder head gasket set (includes both head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, intake/exhaust gaskets) × 1 — Fel-Pro HS7733PT or equivalent
• Intake manifold gasket set × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Exhaust manifold gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Valve cover gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Cylinder head bolts (if reusing, inspect for stretching) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• RTV silicone sealant (high-temp) × 1 — Permatex Ultra Black or equivalent
• Thread sealer (non-hardening) × 1 — Permatex 56521 or equivalent

Fluids

• Ethylene glycol green 50/50 coolant — 15 qt
• 10W-30 or 10W-40 conventional engine oil — 5 qt

Preparation

1. Ensure engine is completely cold before beginning work
2. Disconnect negative battery cable
3. Place drain pan under radiator and drain coolant completely by opening radiator petcock and removing lower radiator hose
4. Drain engine oil and remove oil filter
5. Label all vacuum lines, spark plug wires, and electrical connections with tape and marker before disconnecting
6. Take photographs of hose routing and component positions for reference during reassembly
7. Clean external engine surfaces around work area to prevent contamination

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove air cleaner and upper engine accessories
   Remove the air cleaner assembly completely. Disconnect throttle linkage and return spring from carburetor. Remove distributor cap (leave plug wires attached) and swing aside. Disconnect coil wire. Remove upper radiator hose. Disconnect heater hoses at intake manifold and water pump. Remove all vacuum lines from intake manifold and carburetor, ensuring each is labeled.
2. 2

   Remove valve covers
   Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs and remove wires from valve cover clips. Remove PCV valve and breather from valve covers. Remove 4 valve cover bolts from each side and lift off valve covers. If covers are stuck, gently tap with rubber mallet. Do not pry at gasket surface.
3. 3

   Remove intake manifold
   Disconnect fuel line at carburetor. Disconnect any remaining vacuum lines and electrical connections from intake manifold. Remove carburetor mounting nuts and lift off carburetor. Remove 12 intake manifold bolts (work from center outward). Break manifold seal by gently prying at casting boss (not gasket surface). Lift intake manifold straight up and off engine. Stuff clean rags into intake ports to prevent debris entry.
4. 4

   Remove exhaust manifolds
   Working from underneath vehicle if necessary, disconnect exhaust pipes from both exhaust manifolds at the flange (2 bolts each side). Remove 6 exhaust manifold bolts from each manifold. Remove exhaust manifolds from cylinder heads. Inspect manifold studs for damage.
5. 5

   Remove pushrods and rocker arms
   Loosen each rocker arm nut while rotating the corresponding rocker arm off the pushrod. Remove all rocker arms and place in order. Remove all 16 pushrods and store vertically in order (use cardboard template with numbered holes). Keep driver and passenger side pushrods separate to ensure proper reinstallation.
6. 6

   Remove cylinder heads
   Remove all spark plugs. Remove 10 cylinder head bolts from each head in reverse of torque sequence (outside to inside pattern). Carefully lift cylinder heads straight up off engine. If head is stuck, tap gently with rubber mallet at casting boss. Never pry between head and block gasket surfaces. Place heads on clean workbench with combustion chambers facing up. Verified detail (The 1972 Ford 302ci V8 uses 14 cylinder head bolts per head, not 17. The 17-bolt pattern was used on later model years.): Remove 14 cylinder head bolts from each head in reverse of torque sequence (outside to inside pattern).
7. 7

   Clean cylinder head and block surfaces
   Remove all old gasket material from cylinder head and block surfaces using plastic or brass gasket scraper. Work carefully to avoid gouging aluminum or cast iron surfaces. Use wire brush to clean remaining residue. Vacuum all debris from block deck surface and cylinder bores. Wipe surfaces clean with solvent and lint-free shop rags. Ensure all coolant and oil passages are clear.
8. 8

   Inspect cylinder heads and block
   Place straight edge across cylinder head deck surface in multiple directions. Use feeler gauge to check for warpage. Maximum allowable warpage is 0.003 inches per 6 inches of surface (typical specification). Check entire head surface. Inspect block deck similarly. Examine cylinder head bolt holes in block for thread damage or debris. Clean bolt holes with thread chaser if available. Check combustion chambers and valves for carbon buildup, cracks, or damage.
9. 9

   Install new head gaskets and cylinder heads
   Verify block and head surfaces are completely clean and dry. Install new head gaskets on block with orientation marks (TOP, FRONT) visible and positioned correctly. Gaskets should be positioned squarely on the block deck with all bolt holes and coolant passages aligned. Apply light coat of thread sealer to cylinder head bolt threads (if specified) and wipe off excess. Carefully lower cylinder heads onto block, aligning bolt holes with the gasket and block deck. Install all head bolts finger-tight. Do NOT torque at this step.
10. 10

    Torque cylinder head bolts
    Torque cylinder head bolts in three stages following proper sequence (start center, work outward in spiral pattern). Stage 1: torque all bolts to 50-55 ft-lbs. Stage 2: final torque all bolts to 65-72 ft-lbs. Follow exact torque sequence to ensure even clamping pressure and prevent gasket failure or head warpage. Follow exact torque sequence to ensure even clamping pressure and prevent gasket failure or head warpage. Verified detail (The Ford 302 head bolt final torque spec is approximately 65-72 ft-lbs, not 85-90 ft-lbs. The stated final torque is significantly overspecified and could damage threads or crack the head. Verify against Ford service manual.): Stage 1: torque all bolts to 25-35 ft-lbs. Stage 2: torque all bolts to 45-55 ft-lbs. Stage 3: final torque all bolts to 65-72 ft-lbs.
11. 11

    Install pushrods and rocker arms
    Coat pushrod ends with engine assembly lube. Install all 16 pushrods in their original positions, ensuring each seats properly in lifter cup. Install rocker arms on studs and position over pushrods and valve stems. Thread rocker arm nuts finger-tight. Rotate engine crankshaft by hand to position each cylinder at TDC on compression stroke, then adjust valve lash: loosen nut until rocker arm has clearance, then tighten nut until all clearance is gone (zero lash), then tighten an additional 1/2 to 1 full turn. Repeat for all 16 valves.
12. 12

    Install exhaust manifolds
    Position new exhaust manifold gaskets on cylinder heads. Install exhaust manifolds and start all 8 bolts per side finger-tight. Torque exhaust manifold bolts to 13-18 ft-lbs working from center outward. Connect exhaust pipes to manifold flanges with new gaskets and torque flange nuts to 25-30 ft-lbs.
13. 13

    Install intake manifold
    Remove rags from intake ports. Apply thin bead of RTV silicone to block at front and rear where manifold seals meet cylinder heads (china walls). Install new intake manifold gaskets and end seals. Position intake manifold carefully and install all 12 bolts finger-tight. Torque intake manifold bolts to 23-25 ft-lbs in sequence from center outward in two stages. Allow RTV to cure per manufacturer instructions before adding coolant.
14. 14

    Install valve covers and remaining components
    Install new valve cover gaskets (use RTV in corners if specified). Install valve covers and torque bolts to 3-5 ft-lbs. Reinstall PCV valve and breather. Install carburetor with new gasket and torque mounting nuts to 12-15 ft-lbs. Reconnect throttle linkage and return spring. Reconnect all vacuum lines, heater hoses, radiator hoses, and fuel line per labels and photos. Install distributor cap. Install spark plugs and torque to 10-15 ft-lbs. Reconnect spark plug wires in proper firing order (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8). Install air cleaner assembly.
15. 15

    Refill fluids and perform initial start
    Install new oil filter and refill crankcase with 5 quarts of 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil. Close radiator petcock and refill cooling system with 15 quarts of 50/50 coolant mixture. Reconnect negative battery cable. Set ignition timing to initial specification (typically 6-8 degrees BTDC). Start engine and check immediately for oil pressure. Allow engine to warm to operating temperature while monitoring for leaks at all gasket surfaces. Check coolant level and add as necessary to purge air from system. Inspect for any fuel, coolant, oil, or exhaust leaks.

Reassembly

1. Double-check all torque specifications have been applied in proper sequence
2. Verify all vacuum lines, electrical connections, and hoses are reconnected per original routing
3. Confirm spark plug wires are in correct firing order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 (driver side front to rear: 1-2-3-4, passenger side front to rear: 5-6-7-8)
4. Ensure all fasteners have been reinstalled and nothing is left disconnected
5. Check that no tools or rags have been left in engine bay

Verification

• Start engine and verify stable idle with no unusual noises, misfires, or rough running
• Check for coolant leaks at head gaskets, intake manifold, and all hose connections with engine at operating temperature
• Check for oil leaks at valve covers and head gasket areas
• Check for exhaust leaks at manifold flanges and head gasket areas
• Verify proper oil pressure on gauge
• Test drive vehicle and confirm normal power, no overheating, and no coolant or oil consumption
• Recheck coolant level after test drive and add if necessary
• After 500 miles, retorque cylinder head bolts and recheck valve lash if experiencing issues

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