drivetrain
Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear
for 1972 Ford F-100 302ci V8 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
16
Steps
13
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure covers removal and replacement of press-in style rear wheel bearings on a 1972 Ford F-100 with full-floating rear axle, including axle shaft removal, bearing pressing, and seal installation.
Warnings
⚠This procedure requires a hydraulic press. Attempting to install press-fit bearings without proper equipment will damage components.
⚠Full-floating axle shafts are heavy (25-35 lbs). Use proper lifting technique to avoid injury.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
ℹ️The 1972 F-100 uses a full-floating rear axle where the bearing rides on the axle housing tube, not the axle shaft itself.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
1/2 inch drive socket setEssential
Torque wrenchEssential
Bearing race driver setEssential
Brass drift punchEssential
Seal driver setEssential
Wire brushEssential
Clean ragsEssential
Drain panEssential
Rubber malletEssential
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Parts
- Rear wheel bearing (press-in type) × 1 — Use OEM specification for full-floating axle
- Axle shaft seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Axle flange gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification or RTV gasket maker
- Differential cover gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification or RTV
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- 80W-90 GL-5 rear differential fluid — 3.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake.
- Chock the front wheels securely.
- Loosen lug nuts on the wheel for the side being serviced while vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise rear of vehicle and support with jack stands under the frame rails.
- Remove wheel and tire assembly.
- Place drain pan under differential if fluid level is at or above axle tube.
Procedure
- 1Remove axle shaft flange boltsRemove the 4 nuts securing the bearing retainer plate to the brake backing plate. These are accessed through holes in the axle shaft flange. The axle shaft is retained by this plate, not by flange bolts to the hub.
- 2Extract axle shaft assemblyAttach a slide hammer to the axle flange studs and extract the axle shaft with the bearing as an assembly. The bearing is pressed onto the shaft and retained by the retainer plate, so it will not slide out by hand. Remove and discard the old gasket material from the mating surface.
- 3Inspect axle shaft and splinesExamine the axle shaft for wear, cracks, or damage to the splines. Check for excessive wear on the bearing journal surface. If the shaft shows scoring, pitting, or spline damage, replace it. Clean the shaft thoroughly with solvent and rags.
- 4Remove bearing retainer and sealRemove the axle shaft completely. Remove the outer bearing retaining nut and lock washer from the spindle on the axle housing. The hub/drum assembly can then be pulled off the housing spindle, bringing the outer bearing cone with it. The inner bearing cone remains on the spindle or comes out with the hub.
- 5Remove old bearing from housingUsing a brass drift inserted through the hub from the opposite side, drive the old bearing race (cup) out of the hub bore by tapping evenly around the inner circumference. Remove both inner and outer bearing races. The bearing cones can be pulled off the housing spindle if they didn't come off with the hub. The bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft and secured by a pressed-on retainer collar. Nick the retainer collar with a chisel to relieve tension, then press the old bearing and collar off the axle shaft using a hydraulic press and bearing splitter/plate.
- 6Clean bearing bore and inspect housingThoroughly clean the bearing races bores in the hub assembly using a wire brush and solvent. Clean the axle housing spindle with solvent and inspect for wear, scoring, pitting, or damage. Remove all old grease, rust, and debris. Inspect the bore for scoring, cracks, or damage. Check that the bore is round and not egg-shaped. Any damage to the housing requires housing replacement.
- 7Press new bearing into housingUsing a hydraulic press or bearing race driver and appropriately sized driver that contacts only the outer edge of the race, press the new bearing races squarely into the hub assembly bores. Press the inner and outer races until fully seated against the shoulders in the hub. Ensure the races go in straight to prevent cocking or damage. On the semi-floating axle, the new bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft (contacting the inner race), not into the housing bore, and a new retainer collar is pressed on behind it. Using a hydraulic press and bearing driver that contacts only the inner race, press the new bearing squarely onto the axle shaft against its shoulder. Then press a new retainer collar onto the shaft behind the bearing to lock it in place. Ensure the bearing seats fully and squarely.
- 8Install bearing retainerPack the inner and outer bearing cones with appropriate wheel bearing grease. Install the inner bearing cone into the inner race in the hub. Install the hub assembly onto the axle housing spindle. Confirm the pressed-on bearing retainer collar is fully seated against the bearing on the axle shaft. The bearing/axle assembly is retained by the retainer plate that bolts to the backing plate, installed later.
- 9Install new axle sealCoat the outer diameter of the new axle seal with a thin film of 80W-90 gear oil. Using a seal driver or large socket that contacts only the outer edge of the seal, drive the seal squarely into the housing bore until it seats against the bearing retainer or housing shoulder. Coat the seal lip with gear oil.
- 10Reinstall axle shaftAfter installing and adjusting the hub bearings and securing with the spindle nut, install the axle seal. Carefully guide the axle shaft into the housing, ensuring the splines align with the differential side gear. Push the shaft in fully until the flange is near the hub mounting flange. Install a new axle flange gasket between the axle shaft flange and hub flange.
- 11Install and torque flange boltsInstall the 4 bearing retainer plate nuts and tighten evenly in a cross pattern. Torque to specification (verify exact value; typically in the 20-40 ft-lbs range). Ensure the gasket is properly seated with no gaps.
- 12Check differential fluid levelRemove the differential fill plug located on the axle housing. Fluid level should be at the bottom of the fill hole. If low, add 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil through the fill hole until it begins to seep out. Reinstall fill plug.
- 13Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower vehicle to ground and torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern (typically 100-140 ft-lbs depending on wheel type).
Reassembly
- Torque all fasteners to specification in proper sequence.
- Verify differential fluid level is correct after test drive.
- Check for any fluid leaks around the axle seal after initial operation.
- Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
Verification
- Rotate the wheel by hand and verify smooth rotation with no binding, grinding, or excessive play.
- With wheel off ground, check for axle end play by pushing and pulling on the brake drum - there should be minimal movement (less than 0.010 inch).
- Check for gear oil leakage around the axle flange gasket and seal after test drive.
- Test drive vehicle and verify no unusual noises, vibrations, or handling issues from the rear axle.
- Verify no heat buildup at the wheel hub after a 10-15 minute drive at moderate speeds.