Wheel Studs

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of wheel studs on a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8. Requires pressing or driving out damaged studs and installing new ones.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Wheel stud × 1 — Ford Motorsport M-1107-A or equivalent 1/2"-20 RH thread, 2.25" UHL

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
2. Chock wheels that will remain on ground
3. Loosen lug nuts on affected wheel 1/2 turn before lifting vehicle
4. Lift vehicle at appropriate jacking point and secure with jack stands
5. Remove wheel completely and set aside

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake drum or rotor assembly
   On drum brake models, remove the brake drum by pulling straight off the hub. If drum is stuck, use light hammer taps around the outer edge or back off brake adjusters through the access hole in the backing plate. On disc brake models (optional on 1972 F-100 front), remove caliper mounting bolts and secure caliper with wire, then slide rotor off hub. The wheel studs are pressed into the hub from the back, so the drum or rotor must be removed for access. Verified detail (1972 F-100 front brakes were drum on most trucks, with disc brakes available. On disc setups the rotor is typically integral with the hub, and front studs are pressed into the hub/rotor assembly which must be removed together — the rotor does not simply slide off the hub separately.): On disc brake models, remove caliper mounting bolts and secure caliper with wire, then remove the hub/rotor assembly (rotor is typically integral with the hub on this era). The wheel studs are pressed into the hub for both drum and disc configurations.
2. 2

   Inspect damaged stud and hub
   Examine the damaged stud to confirm it needs replacement (stripped threads, bent shaft, or broken). Check the hub bore where the stud seats for damage, cracks, or wallowing that would prevent proper seating of the new stud. The stud knurl should seat tightly in the hub with no play. If hub bore is damaged, hub replacement may be required.
3. 3

   Remove damaged wheel stud
   Using a ball peen hammer and brass drift punch, drive the damaged stud out from the front of the hub toward the rear. Strike firmly and squarely on the stud face to avoid damaging adjacent studs or the hub. The stud should drive out with moderate force once the knurled section is freed from the hub bore. If stud is extremely tight, apply penetrating oil and let sit 10-15 minutes before continuing.
4. 4

   Clean hub stud bore
   Use a wire brush to clean the stud bore in the hub, removing rust, debris, and old metal particles from the knurled stud. The bore must be clean for the new stud to seat properly. Inspect bore again for damage. The hole should be round and not enlarged or oval-shaped.
5. 5

   Position new wheel stud
   Insert the new wheel stud through the hub from the back side, pushing it by hand as far as it will go. The knurled section should begin to enter the hub bore. Ensure the stud is straight and aligned properly before pressing. On 1972 F-100 hubs, there are 5 studs evenly spaced; ensure proper spacing is maintained.
6. 6

   Press wheel stud into hub
   Thread 3-4 lug nuts onto the stud threads from the front, with washers between each nut to distribute force. Alternatively, use a wheel stud installation tool or large socket slightly larger than the stud shank. Tighten the top nut while holding the bottom nuts stationary. This will pull the stud through the hub until the knurled section is fully seated and the stud shoulder is flush against the back of the hub. If using a C-clamp or arbor press, press evenly on the stud face until fully seated. The stud should require significant force to seat and should not spin in the bore.
7. 7

   Verify stud installation
   Remove installation nuts and washers. Check that the stud is fully seated with shoulder tight against hub back. The stud should not rotate or have any play. Measure stud protrusion from the front of the hub and compare to adjacent original studs; they should be equal within 1/16 inch. Thread a lug nut onto the new stud by hand to verify threads are undamaged from installation process.
8. 8

   Reinstall brake drum or rotor
   Slide the brake drum or rotor back onto the hub, ensuring it seats fully against the hub face. On drum brakes, align any locating features. Rotate the drum or rotor to verify it spins freely without interference from the new stud.
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel and lug nuts
   Mount the wheel onto the hub, aligning lug nut holes with studs including the newly installed stud. Thread all lug nuts on by hand to ensure proper threading. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern but do not fully tighten while vehicle is on jack stands.
10. 10

    Lower vehicle and torque lug nuts
    Remove jack stands and carefully lower vehicle to ground. Torque all lug nuts to the factory specification (approximately 85-115 ft-lbs for 1/2"-20 studs — verify exact value in the shop manual) in a star pattern, making at least two complete passes to ensure even seating. Verify the new stud performs identically to original studs during tightening with no abnormal feel or movement.

Reassembly

1. Ensure brake drum or rotor was fully reinstalled and secured before mounting wheel
2. Lug nuts should be torqued in multiple passes using star pattern for even wheel seating
3. Re-check lug nut torque after first 50-100 miles of driving

Verification

• New stud should be fully seated flush with hub back surface with no play or rotation
• Stud protrusion from hub front should match adjacent original studs
• Lug nuts should thread smoothly onto new stud and torque normally
• Wheel should spin freely with no rubbing or interference
• Test drive vehicle and verify no vibration or unusual wheel behavior

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