This procedure covers removal and replacement of the front brake caliper on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD, including bleeding the brake system.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper (driver or passenger side as needed) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Copper brake line washers × 4 — Two per banjo bolt connection
• Brake caliper mounting hardware kit (if needed) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and set parking brake firmly
2. Chock rear wheels on both sides to prevent rolling
3. Using a turkey baster or syringe, remove approximately half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons
4. Loosen wheel lug nuts on the front wheel(s) to be serviced while vehicle is still on the ground
5. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands at proper frame support points
6. Remove wheel(s) completely and set aside
7. Inspect brake rotor, pads, and hoses for damage or excessive wear while caliper is accessible

Procedure

1. 1

   Prepare brake line connection
   Locate the brake hose banjo bolt connection at the back of the caliper. Clean the area around the banjo bolt thoroughly to prevent contamination of the brake system. Position a drain pan underneath to catch brake fluid. Have new copper washers ready for reassembly.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Using a flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the brake hose banjo bolt from the caliper. Brake fluid will drain out - direct it into the catch pan. Once removed, immediately plug the brake hose end with a rubber cap or wrap tightly with plastic wrap and tape to minimize fluid loss and contamination. Discard the old copper washers - these must be replaced with new ones.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain immediately when banjo bolt is removed. Have drain pan positioned and be prepared for fluid flow.
3. 3

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the rear of the caliper assembly. These are typically 18mm bolts. If bolts are corroded, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak. Using an 18mm socket or wrench, remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. Keep these bolts if they are in good condition with no thread damage; otherwise replace them.
   ⚠Caliper will be loose once both bolts are removed. Support it with your hand to prevent it from falling.
4. 4

   Remove caliper from bracket
   With mounting bolts removed, carefully lift the caliper assembly away from the brake rotor and bracket. The caliper is no longer connected and can be removed completely. Inspect the old caliper for fluid leaks, torn dust boots, or seized pistons to confirm replacement is necessary. Set the old caliper aside in the drain pan.
5. 5

   Inspect and prepare bracket
   Inspect the caliper bracket that remains mounted to the knuckle. Check slide pins for corrosion, binding, or damage. Clean the bracket mounting surfaces and slide pin bores with a wire brush. If replacing the bracket or if bolts show thread damage, remove the bracket bolts now. Apply anti-seize compound to slide pin contact surfaces if pins are being reused.
6. 6

   Compress piston on new caliper
   Before installing the new caliper, the piston(s) must be fully compressed to accommodate the brake pads. Use a C-clamp or brake piston tool to slowly and evenly compress the piston(s) fully into the caliper bore. This will push fluid back toward the master cylinder (which is why reservoir was partially drained earlier). Ensure piston compresses smoothly without binding or tilting.
7. 7

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align it with the mounting bracket. Ensure brake pads are properly seated in the bracket. Insert both caliper mounting bolts and thread them in by hand first to ensure proper thread engagement. Once both bolts are hand-tight, use a torque wrench to tighten them to specification in a cross pattern.
   ⚠Ensure caliper mounting bolts thread smoothly by hand. Cross-threading will ruin the new caliper and bracket. Stop immediately if resistance is felt and check alignment.
8. 8

   Connect brake hose to caliper
   Remove the plug or wrap from the brake hose. Install one NEW copper washer on each side of the banjo fitting (total of two washers). Position the banjo fitting into the caliper port, ensuring proper alignment with no twisting of the brake hose. Insert the banjo bolt and hand-tighten first. Verify the hose is not twisted or kinked, then torque the banjo bolt to specification using a flare nut wrench and torque wrench.
   ⚠️New copper washers are MANDATORY. Reusing old washers will result in brake fluid leaks and potential brake failure.
9. 9

   Bleed the brake caliper
   Locate the bleeder screw on top of the caliper. Attach clear tubing to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn - fluid and air will flow through the tube. Close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the tube and only clean fluid flows. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir frequently during bleeding to prevent it from running dry.
   ⚠️Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run empty during bleeding. This will introduce air into the ABS system requiring specialized scan tool bleeding procedures.
   ⚠Bleeder screws are fragile. Do not overtighten - torque specification is only 7 lb-ft. Over-torquing will snap the bleeder screw requiring caliper replacement.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final inspection and wheel installation
    Verify the banjo bolt and all caliper mounting bolts are torqued to specification. Ensure no brake fluid is leaking from any connection. Check that the brake hose has adequate clearance and is not contacting the wheel or suspension components through full steering range. Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (still supported by jack), then torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
    ⚠Rotate steering lock-to-lock while checking for brake hose interference. Hose contact with rotating or moving parts will cause hose failure and brake fluid loss.

Reassembly

1. Refill master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid only
2. Lower vehicle completely to the ground and remove jack stands
3. Re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification with vehicle weight on ground
4. If both front calipers were replaced, bleed the opposite side using the same procedure

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal multiple times - pedal should become firm and hold steady pressure without sinking
• Check master cylinder reservoir level - top off if needed and verify no rapid fluid loss indicating leaks
• Start engine and verify brake pedal remains firm with power assist (pedal will drop slightly when power assist activates, this is normal)
• Visually inspect all brake line connections for leaks while assistant applies firm brake pressure
• Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area - brake pedal should be firm and vehicle should stop straight without pulling to either side
• After test drive, inspect all connections again for leaks and verify no brake fluid drips or wetness
• Perform several moderate stops from 30-40 mph to properly seat the brake pads before returning to normal driving
• If brake pedal feels soft, spongy, or sinks under pressure, DO NOT DRIVE - repeat bleeding procedure or have vehicle towed to a qualified technician

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