This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear brake caliper on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD, including bleeding the brake system.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Copper crush washers for brake line banjo bolt × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 242 or equivalent
• Brake fluid × 1 — Motorcraft DOT 4 LV

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake
2. Chock the front wheels securely
3. Remove master cylinder reservoir cap slowly to relieve any pressure, then use turkey baster or fluid pump to remove approximately half the brake fluid from reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons
4. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove
5. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight at manufacturer-specified jacking points
6. Remove rear wheel and tire assembly completely
7. Spray caliper bolts and brake line banjo bolt with penetrating oil if corrosion is present; allow to soak 10-15 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake line from caliper
   Place a drain pan or absorbent material under the caliper area. Using a flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the brake line banjo bolt from the rear of the caliper. Immediately plug the brake line opening with a rubber cap or clean shop rag to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo bolt; these must be replaced with new washers.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain from the line and caliper. Have a drain pan ready and work quickly to minimize fluid loss.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the rear side of the caliper. These are 13mm or 18mm bolts depending on caliper design. Using the appropriate socket, remove both caliper slide bolts completely. Support the caliper with your hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Carefully lift the caliper assembly off the brake rotor and caliper bracket. The caliper will still have brake pads attached or they may remain on the bracket. If replacing only the caliper and reusing brake pads, mark pad orientation before removal. Inspect brake pads for uneven wear, contamination, or damage; replace if necessary.
4. 4

   Inspect caliper bracket and hardware
   With the caliper removed, inspect the caliper bracket for damage, excessive corrosion, or worn slide pins. Clean the bracket mounting surfaces with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner. Check that slide pins move freely in their bores. If the bracket is damaged or slide pins are seized, the bracket should also be replaced.
5. 5

   Prepare new caliper
   Remove the new caliper from packaging. Verify it matches the old caliper design and mounting configuration. If the new caliper includes a bleeder screw cap, leave it in place until bleeding. Check that the caliper piston is fully retracted; if not, use a C-clamp or caliper piston tool to compress it fully before installation.
6. 6

   Install brake pads and caliper
   Install brake pads into the caliper bracket if removed, ensuring proper orientation with friction material facing the rotor. Position the new caliper over the rotor and brake pads, aligning the mounting holes with the caliper bracket. Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper slide bolt threads.
7. 7

   Install and torque caliper bolts
   Install both caliper slide bolts by hand, ensuring they thread smoothly without cross-threading. Once both bolts are hand-tight, use a torque wrench to tighten them to specification. The exact specification depends on your caliper design - verify whether these are the Caliper Bolts (75 lb-ft) or Caliper Mounting Bolts (86 lb-ft) for your specific rear caliper configuration.
   ⚠Verify which bolt specification applies to your specific rear caliper design. Consult service manual if uncertain.
8. 8

   Connect brake line to caliper
   Remove the plug or rag from the brake line. Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the brake line banjo fitting (one washer on each side of the fitting where it contacts the caliper). Insert the banjo bolt through the fitting and thread it into the caliper port by hand. Ensure the brake line is properly positioned without kinks or tension.
   ⚠️You MUST use new copper crush washers. Reusing old washers will result in brake fluid leaks and brake system failure.
9. 9

   Torque brake line banjo bolt
   Using a torque wrench and appropriate socket or flare nut wrench, tighten the brake line banjo bolt to exactly 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Do not overtighten as this can damage the caliper port threads or deform the copper washers, causing leaks.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Bleed rear brake caliper
    Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Locate the bleeder screw on the rear of the caliper. Place a clear hose over the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a clean container with a small amount of brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn until fluid flows, then close it before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat until fluid flows clear without air bubbles. Maintain reservoir level throughout bleeding.
    ⚠️Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding, as this will introduce air into the ABS system requiring specialized equipment to bleed.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final bleeding check and pedal test
    After bleeding is complete, ensure the bleeder screw is tightened to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) - do not overtighten as it will strip easily. Top off master cylinder reservoir to MAX line and reinstall cap. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal firmly several times. The pedal should become firm and not sink slowly to the floor. If pedal remains soft or sinks, repeat bleeding procedure or check for leaks.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Install wheel and lower vehicle
    Clean the wheel hub surface with a wire brush. Install the wheel and tire assembly, threading lug nuts by hand first to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a hand wrench until snug. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but suspension is not fully loaded. Use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to 156 Nm (115 lb-ft) in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.

Reassembly

1. Double-check all brake line connections for signs of leakage
2. Verify master cylinder reservoir is at proper level with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid
3. Ensure no tools or parts have been left in wheel well area
4. Check that all caliper bolts are properly torqued

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal 10-15 times. Pedal should be firm and maintain height. A soft or sinking pedal indicates air in the system or a leak
• Start engine and verify brake warning light is not illuminated on instrument cluster
• Inspect around all brake line connections and bleeder screw for any signs of fluid leakage
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area with no traffic. Vehicle should stop straight without pulling to either side
• Perform a final high-pressure brake test from 30-40 mph in a safe area. Brakes should feel firm and responsive
• After first 50-100 miles of driving, re-check all caliper bolt torque values and brake fluid level
• If any abnormal brake pedal feel, noise, vibration, or pulling occurs, stop driving immediately and inspect the installation

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