This procedure replaces a single front brake rotor on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD, including caliper removal, rotor replacement, and proper torque specifications.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotor (single) × 1 — Use OEM or quality aftermarket matching original specifications
• Rotor set screws (if corroded) × 2 — M6 set screws

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is still on ground
3. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-designated lift point
4. Support vehicle on jack stands placed under frame rails - never rely solely on the jack
5. Remove wheel completely and set aside
6. Inspect brake system for leaks, damaged hoses, or excessive wear before proceeding

Procedure

1. 1

   Prepare caliper piston
   Before removing caliper, use a C-clamp or brake piston tool to carefully compress the caliper piston back into its bore. Place the clamp between the back of the caliper body and the outboard brake pad. Compress slowly to avoid damaging the piston seal. This creates clearance for removal and prevents brake fluid overflow at the master cylinder reservoir.
   ⚠Check the brake fluid reservoir during compression. If fluid level rises to the MAX line, remove some fluid with a turkey baster to prevent overflow.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the rear side of the caliper assembly. These are typically 13mm bolts with rubber dust boots. Remove both slide pin bolts completely using a 13mm wrench or socket. Keep track of these bolts as they will be reused.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove and support caliper
   Carefully lift the caliper assembly straight up and off the rotor. Do not let it drop or twist. Immediately secure the caliper to the suspension or frame using wire or a bungee cord. Position it so there is no tension or stress on the rubber brake hose. The caliper should hang naturally without pulling on the brake line.
   ⚠️Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose alone. Damage to the brake hose can cause sudden brake failure.
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket
   Locate the two large caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are typically 18mm bolts and require significant torque to remove. Use a breaker bar if necessary. Remove both bracket bolts completely and remove the caliper bracket assembly. Set aside in a clean area.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove rotor set screws
   Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the two rotor set screws that secure the rotor to the hub. These screws often corrode and may be difficult to remove. If screws are damaged or strip out, they can be drilled out carefully. Apply penetrating oil if needed and allow time to soak before attempting removal.
   ⚠Set screws may be severely corroded. Use proper fitting Torx bit to avoid stripping. Consider replacing if damaged.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove old rotor
   Pull the rotor straight off the hub assembly. If the rotor is stuck due to rust or corrosion, do NOT strike the friction surface. Instead, thread bolts into the threaded holes in the rotor hat (if present) and tighten evenly to press the rotor off. Alternatively, strike the rotor hat area (non-friction surface) with a rubber mallet while rotating the rotor.
7. 7

   Clean hub surface
   Use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the hub mounting surface, removing all rust, corrosion, and debris. The hub surface must be clean and smooth for the new rotor to seat properly. Clean the hub pilot area and the lug stud threads. Spray with brake cleaner and wipe dry. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the hub face (not the rotor contact area).
   ⚠Do not get anti-seize compound on brake friction surfaces. This will contaminate pads and reduce braking effectiveness.
8. 8

   Install new rotor
   Remove any protective coating from the new rotor using brake cleaner on both friction surfaces. Wipe thoroughly with a clean, lint-free cloth. Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the holes for the set screws. Ensure the rotor sits flush against the hub with no gaps or debris preventing full contact.
9. 9

   Install rotor set screws
   Install the rotor set screws through the rotor into the hub. If old screws are corroded, use new ones. Thread in by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Tighten set screws to specification using the T30 Torx bit and torque wrench.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Position the caliper bracket back onto the steering knuckle, aligning the bolt holes. If recommended by service manual or if bolts were previously torqued, apply medium-strength thread locker to the bracket bolt threads. Install both bracket bolts and hand-tighten. Torque both bolts to specification in an even pattern.
    ⚠️Caliper bracket bolts are critical safety fasteners. Verify proper torque with calibrated torque wrench.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Prepare slide pins
    Remove the slide pins from the caliper bracket if not already removed. Clean the pins thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect the rubber dust boots for tears or damage and replace if necessary. Apply a thin coating of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the smooth portion of each slide pin. Do not use petroleum-based grease.
12. 12

    Reinstall caliper assembly
    Remove the caliper from its supported position. Ensure brake pads are properly positioned in the bracket. Lower the caliper over the rotor and align with the slide pin holes in the bracket. Insert and hand-start both slide pin bolts. Apply silicone brake grease to slide pin bolt threads as specified. Torque both slide pin bolts to specification.
    ⚠Ensure caliper moves freely on slide pins after installation. Seized slide pins cause uneven pad wear and reduced braking.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel
    Clean the wheel mounting surface on the rotor hat. Position the wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern by hand, then lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground with slight weight on it (still supported mostly by jack).
14. 14

    Torque wheel lug nuts
    With vehicle weight partially on the wheel, torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench. Complete the star pattern sequence at least twice to ensure even torque distribution. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely to the ground. Perform final torque verification of all lug nuts in star pattern.
    ⚠️Improperly torqued lug nuts can cause wheel detachment. Always use star pattern and verify final torque with vehicle on ground.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all tools and parts have been removed from wheel well area
2. Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir and top off with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid if needed
3. Double-check that all fasteners have been properly torqued per specifications

Verification

• Before moving vehicle, pump brake pedal several times until pedal feels firm and normal. The first few pumps may feel soft as the caliper piston repositions against the new rotor
• Check brake fluid level again after pumping brakes - top off if necessary
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area to verify proper brake operation before returning to normal driving
• Listen for any unusual noises during initial brake applications - slight noise is normal as pads bed to new rotor
• After 50-100 miles, re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification to account for settling
• Properly bed new rotor according to manufacturer recommendations (typically 20-30 gradual stops from 30-40 mph) to establish proper pad-to-rotor contact pattern
• If brake pedal feels soft, spongy, or travels further than normal, do not drive vehicle - bleed brake system or consult professional technician

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