Complete disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and rebuild of front brake calipers using rebuild kit with new seals, dust boots, and slide pins.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper rebuild kit (contains seals, dust boots, slide pins) × 2 — Use OEM Ford specification or quality aftermarket
• Brake fluid × 1 — Motorcraft DOT 4 LV
• Silicone brake grease × 1 — High-temperature synthetic brake lubricant
• Blue threadlocker × 1 — Medium strength (Loctite 243 or equivalent)

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake firmly
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
3. Safely raise front of vehicle and support on jack stands rated for vehicle weight at manufacturer frame jacking points
4. Remove front wheels completely
5. Verify brake system is cool to touch - allow minimum 1 hour cooling if recently driven
6. Place drip pans under brake calipers to catch brake fluid
7. Locate and mark brake fluid reservoir MAX level for reference
8. Have all rebuild kit components unpacked and organized before disassembly

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper assembly from rotor
   Using flare nut wrench, carefully loosen but do not remove the brake line banjo bolt from the back of the caliper (10mm). Allow brake fluid to drain into catch container. Once drained, fully remove banjo bolt and brake line. Immediately plug brake line with rubber cap to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using 13mm socket. Lift caliper assembly off the rotor and bracket.
2. 2

   Remove caliper bracket from knuckle
   Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts from the steering knuckle using 18mm socket. These bolts are torqued to high specification and may require breaker bar. Remove bracket completely and set aside. If bracket slide pins are worn or corroded, they should be replaced with rebuild kit components.
3. 3

   Disassemble caliper - remove pads and hardware
   With caliper on clean workbench, remove brake pads from caliper housing if still attached. Remove any anti-rattle clips, shims, or spring hardware. Use wire brush to clean exterior of caliper housing, removing all dirt, rust, and brake dust. Spray thoroughly with brake parts cleaner.
4. 4

   Remove caliper piston
   Place clean shop towels or wood block inside caliper to catch piston. If compressed air is available, apply controlled air pressure (30-40 psi maximum) to brake fluid inlet port to push piston out. Alternatively, use caliper piston removal tool or carefully work piston out by hand. Once piston begins to move, grasp firmly and remove completely. Inspect piston surface for scoring, pitting, chrome flaking, or corrosion. If piston is damaged, caliper must be replaced - do not attempt to rebuild.
   ⚠Keep fingers clear of piston path when using compressed air. Piston can eject with significant force even at low pressure.
5. 5

   Remove old seals and clean caliper bore
   Using plastic or brass pick (never steel tools), carefully pry out the piston seal from the groove inside the caliper bore. Remove dust boot from outer groove. Inspect caliper bore meticulously for any scoring, pitting, rust, or corrosion. Light surface rust can be cleaned with fine emery cloth, but any significant damage requires caliper replacement. Clean bore thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and lint-free towels. Compressed air can be used to dry bore completely. Ensure all old seal material is completely removed from grooves.
   ⚠️Do NOT use steel tools in caliper bore - scratches will cause seal failure and brake fluid leakage.
6. 6

   Clean and inspect all caliper components
   Clean caliper housing casting, slide pin bores in bracket, and all mounting surfaces with brake parts cleaner. Use wire brush on external surfaces only. Inspect slide pin bores in bracket for corrosion or wear. Check that bracket mounting surfaces are flat and not warped. Ensure bleeder screw threads are clean and screw moves freely (do not remove unless damaged).
7. 7

   Install new piston seal
   Coat new piston seal from rebuild kit lightly with clean DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Carefully install seal into groove in caliper bore using fingers only - do not use tools. Ensure seal is seated evenly in groove around entire circumference with no twists or folds. Seal should sit flat in groove.
8. 8

   Install piston and dust boot
   Coat piston outer surface generously with clean DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Lubricate caliper bore with brake fluid. Install new dust boot from rebuild kit onto piston with lip facing out. Carefully insert piston into caliper bore at a slight angle, then straighten as it enters. Press piston squarely into bore using caliper piston tool or appropriate-sized flat object, applying even pressure. Push piston fully to bottom of bore. Seat dust boot outer lip into groove on caliper housing, ensuring it is fully seated around entire circumference.
   ⚠Piston must enter bore straight to avoid cocking and damaging new seal. Apply even pressure across entire piston face.
9. 9

   Prepare and lubricate slide pins
   Clean slide pin bores in caliper bracket thoroughly with brake parts cleaner. Remove any old grease, dirt, or corrosion. Apply thin coat of silicone brake grease to new slide pins from rebuild kit. Apply light coat of grease inside slide pin bores. Install new slide pin boots onto bracket if included in rebuild kit. Do not over-lubricate - excess grease can contaminate brake pads.
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket to knuckle
    Clean bracket mounting surface on steering knuckle with wire brush. Apply small amount of blue threadlocker to caliper bracket bolt threads. Position bracket on knuckle and start both bracket bolts by hand. Torque bracket bolts to specification using torque wrench in cross pattern.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper assembly
    Install new brake pads into bracket with wear indicators positioned correctly (inboard pad indicator at top, outboard varies by pad design). Install anti-rattle clips and hardware. Position caliper over pads and onto bracket. Apply silicone brake grease to slide pin bolt threads. Install both slide pin bolts and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reconnect brake line
    Remove plug from brake line. Install new copper crush washers (should be included in rebuild kit or purchased separately) on both sides of banjo fitting. Position brake line banjo fitting to caliper and install banjo bolt. Torque banjo bolt to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft) - do not overtighten as this can damage washers and cause leaks.
    Torque spec

    Mounting Bolts31 Nm (23 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Bleed brake caliper
    Fill brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder screw on caliper with other end submerged in container of clean brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 5-6 times and hold pressure. Open bleeder screw 1/4 turn using 10mm wrench, allow fluid to flow until stream is bubble-free, then close bleeder screw before assistant releases pedal. Repeat process until no air bubbles appear and pedal feels firm. Torque bleeder screw to specification - do not overtighten as threads strip easily. Check reservoir level frequently and maintain at MAX - never allow reservoir to run dry during bleeding.
    ⚠️Never allow brake fluid reservoir to run empty during bleeding - this will introduce air into ABS system requiring professional scan tool to bleed.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Repeat procedure on opposite side
    Perform complete rebuild procedure (steps 1-13) on opposite front caliper. Brake calipers should always be rebuilt in pairs to ensure even braking performance. After both calipers are rebuilt and bled, bleed the entire brake system starting from wheel furthest from master cylinder (right rear, left rear, right front, left front) to ensure all air is purged.
15. 15

    Reinstall wheels and perform final checks
    Reinstall front wheels, threading lug nuts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Lower vehicle until wheels just contact ground but most weight is still on jack stands. Torque lug nuts to specification in star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. With vehicle still in park/gear, pump brake pedal firmly 10-15 times to fully seat pads against rotors - pedal should become firm. Check brake fluid reservoir and top off to MAX line if needed. Inspect all caliper connections for any signs of brake fluid leakage.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all caliper bracket and slide pin bolts are torqued to specification
2. Verify brake lines are properly connected with new crush washers and no leaks present
3. Confirm brake fluid reservoir is filled to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 LV fluid
4. Double-check that all bleeder screws are tightened and caps reinstalled

Verification

• With vehicle in park and engine off, pump brake pedal multiple times - pedal should feel firm and consistent with no excessive travel
• Check for brake fluid leaks at all caliper connections, banjo bolts, and bleeder screws while assistant applies firm pedal pressure
• Test drive vehicle in safe area at low speed (under 15 mph) to verify brakes engage smoothly without pulling to either side
• Perform several moderate stops from 30-40 mph in safe area to bed in new seals and verify proper brake function
• After test drive, immediately recheck all caliper bolts for proper torque and inspect for any fluid leaks
• Check brake fluid level after test drive and top off if needed - new seals may absorb small amount of fluid during initial operation
• Monitor brake pedal feel and inspect calipers for leaks after first 50-100 miles of driving
• If pedal feels spongy, brake pull is present, or any leaks develop, DO NOT DRIVE vehicle - seek immediate professional service

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