3.5L V6 EcoBoost4WDAUTOMATICgasturbo
4 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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brakes

Brake Caliper Rebuild - Rear

for 2012 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · 4WD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.8 h
Tools
14
Steps
11
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure covers disassembly, cleaning, inspection, seal replacement, and reassembly of rear brake calipers on 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD vehicles.

Warnings

⚠️BRAKE SYSTEM FAILURE CAN CAUSE DEATH. If you are uncomfortable with any step in this procedure, have the vehicle serviced by a qualified technician. Test brakes thoroughly in a safe area before operating on public roads.
⚠️Brake fluid is highly toxic and corrosive. Avoid skin contact and immediately flush with water if contact occurs. Keep away from painted surfaces as it will damage finish.
⚠️Never use compressed air exceeding 30 PSI to remove caliper pistons. Use appropriate piston removal tools or controlled low-pressure air with protective barriers to prevent injury from ejecting pistons.
Do not allow brake calipers to hang by brake hoses as this can damage internal hose structure. Always support calipers with wire or appropriate hangers.
Inspect all rubber components carefully. Any signs of cracking, deterioration, or damage requires replacement. Never reuse damaged seals.
Contamination of brake fluid or internal caliper components will cause premature failure. Maintain absolute cleanliness throughout this procedure.
ℹ️This procedure requires brake system bleeding. Ensure you have adequate brake fluid and bleeding equipment before beginning work.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Torque wrench (0-150 Nm range)Essential
Brake caliper piston tool or large C-clampEssential
Brake line flare nut wrench setEssential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Brake caliper rebuild tool kit with piston removal toolEssential
Brake fluid catch containerEssential
Compressed air source with safety nozzleEssential
Wire brush
Brake parts cleanerEssential
Rubber mallet
Vacuum brake bleeder or assistant for brake bleedingEssential
Safety glasses and nitrile glovesEssential
Digital caliper or micrometer

Parts

  • Rear brake caliper rebuild kit (includes seals, dust boots, and hardware) × 2 — Use OEM specification for 2011-2014 F-150
  • Brake fluid DOT 4 LV × 1 — Motorcraft PM-20
  • Silicone brake grease × 1 — Use OEM specification
  • Brake parts cleaner × 2 — Non-chlorinated formula
  • Brake caliper bolts (if corroded or damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

  • Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and place transmission in Park. Apply parking brake firmly.
  2. Verify you have a complete caliper rebuild kit for both rear calipers before starting work.
  3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove.
  4. Lift rear of vehicle using floor jack at designated rear axle lift points and secure with jack stands rated for vehicle weight.
  5. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside.
  6. Clean exterior of brake calipers, lines, and surrounding area with brake parts cleaner to prevent contamination during disassembly.
  7. Place drain pan under work area to catch brake fluid.
  8. Pump brake pedal several times then hold pressure to identify any existing leaks before disassembly.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove brake caliper from rotor
    Using a flare nut wrench, carefully loosen the brake line fitting at the caliper by 1-2 turns only (do not remove yet). Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts. Lift caliper off rotor and bracket. Now fully disconnect the brake line and immediately cap or plug both the line and caliper port to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Place caliper on clean workspace.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  2. 2
    Remove caliper piston
    Position caliper with piston facing up on clean work surface. If equipped with phenolic piston, use wooden blocks to catch piston. Apply low-pressure compressed air (maximum 30 PSI) to brake fluid inlet port while keeping hands and face clear. Piston will eject from bore - control its removal with wooden blocks or towels. If piston is stuck, use a caliper piston removal tool per tool manufacturer instructions. Inspect piston for scoring, pitting, or corrosion.
    ⚠️Piston can eject with significant force. Always use protective barriers and keep body parts clear of ejection path. Wear safety glasses and position caliper to direct piston into safe area.
  3. 3
    Disassemble caliper seals and hardware
    Using a seal pick or small flat-blade screwdriver with taped tip, carefully remove the piston dust boot from caliper bore groove. Remove the square-cut piston seal from internal groove in caliper bore, taking care not to scratch the bore surface. Remove bleeder screw. Keep all old components for comparison with rebuild kit parts. Inspect caliper bore for scoring, pitting, or corrosion that cannot be cleaned.
    Do not use metal tools directly against caliper bore surface. Any scratches or gouges in the bore will cause seal failure and caliper leakage. If bore damage is found, caliper must be replaced, not rebuilt.
  4. 4
    Clean and inspect caliper components
    Thoroughly clean caliper bore, piston, and all metal components using brake parts cleaner and lint-free shop towels. Use compressed air to dry completely. Inspect caliper bore for any signs of pitting, scoring, or corrosion. Measure bore diameter if micrometer is available and compare to piston diameter - clearance should be within manufacturer specifications (typically 0.002-0.006 inches). Clean all bolt threads with wire brush. If bore or piston shows damage beyond light staining, caliper must be replaced.
    ℹ️Chrome plating on pistons must be smooth and intact. Any flaking, peeling, or deep pitting requires piston replacement. Most rebuild kits include new pistons.
  5. 5
    Install new piston seal
    Verify rebuild kit contains correct seals by comparing to old parts. Lubricate caliper bore and new square-cut piston seal with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid (never use petroleum-based products). Carefully install new piston seal into internal groove in caliper bore using only fingers. Ensure seal is properly seated in groove all the way around with no twists or pinches. Verify seal sits below bore surface.
    Only use DOT 4 LV brake fluid as assembly lubricant. Never use petroleum products, silicone grease, or other lubricants on internal seal surfaces as they will cause seal swelling and failure.
  6. 6
    Install piston and dust boot
    Lubricate piston and caliper bore with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Position new dust boot onto piston with seal lip in piston groove. Carefully start piston into caliper bore, ensuring piston seal does not pop out of groove. Push piston squarely into bore using hand pressure or soft-faced mallet, working it slowly to prevent seal damage. Once piston is approximately flush with bore opening, seat outer dust boot lip into caliper bore groove, ensuring boot is not twisted or pinched.
    Piston must enter bore squarely and smoothly. If significant resistance is felt, stop and verify seal is not displaced or piston is not cocked at an angle. Forcing a misaligned piston will damage seals.
  7. 7
    Install bleeder screw and prepare for installation
    Clean bleeder screw threads and apply small amount of anti-seize compound to threads only (not sealing cone). Install bleeder screw finger-tight, then torque to specification. Clean caliper slide pin bores in bracket with brake cleaner and inspect rubber boots for damage. Apply thin coat of silicone brake grease to caliper slide pins. Verify brake pads are in acceptable condition or replace as needed.
    Do not overtighten bleeder screw as the small threads strip easily. Use torque wrench to ensure proper torque.
    Torque spec
    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Install rebuilt caliper to vehicle
    Position rebuilt caliper over brake rotor and bracket, aligning slide pin holes. Apply silicone brake grease to slide pin bolt threads and contact surfaces as specified. Install caliper slide pin bolts and torque to specification. Reconnect brake line to caliper using new copper crush washers if provided in kit, and torque fitting appropriately (hand-tight plus 1/6 turn for flare fittings). Ensure brake line is not twisted or kinked.
    Brake line fittings are easily cross-threaded. Start threads by hand and ensure fitting turns smoothly before applying wrench pressure.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Repeat procedure for opposite side
    Complete steps 1 through 8 for the opposite rear caliper. Both rear calipers should be rebuilt together to ensure even braking performance and to minimize total bleeding time. Maintain cleanliness and follow all warnings for second caliper rebuild.
    ℹ️Rebuilding both rear calipers simultaneously is strongly recommended for balanced brake performance and efficient use of time.
  10. 10
    Bleed brake system
    Fill master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid to MAX line. Starting with the wheel farthest from master cylinder (typically right rear), attach bleeder hose to bleeder screw and submerge other end in container partially filled with brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure, or use vacuum bleeder per tool instructions. Open bleeder screw and allow fluid and air to evacuate until solid stream of bubble-free fluid flows. Close bleeder screw before releasing pedal pressure. Repeat until no air bubbles appear. Proceed to left rear, right front, then left front wheel following same procedure.
    Never allow master cylinder reservoir to run empty during bleeding process as this will introduce air into ABS system requiring special scan tool procedures to purge.
    ℹ️If brake pedal remains soft after bleeding all four wheels, ABS module may contain air and require scan tool activation bleeding procedure.
  11. 11
    Install wheels and perform final torque
    Clean wheel mounting surfaces on hub and wheel. Install wheels and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower vehicle until wheels just contact ground but vehicle weight is still on jack stands. Torque lug nuts to specification in star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Perform final lug nut torque check in star pattern with vehicle on ground.
    Always torque lug nuts in star pattern to prevent wheel/rotor distortion and ensure even clamping force.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Verify all caliper bolts are torqued to specification and no tools or parts remain in wheel well area.
  2. Check master cylinder fluid level and top off to MAX line with DOT 4 LV brake fluid.
  3. Pump brake pedal multiple times to seat caliper pistons against pads before attempting to move vehicle.
  4. Inspect for any brake fluid leaks at caliper connections, bleeder screws, and brake lines.

Verification

  • With vehicle still safely supported, attempt to rotate rear wheels by hand - they should turn with slight pad drag but not be locked.
  • Pump brake pedal firmly 10-15 times. Pedal should be firm and hold pressure without slowly sinking. If pedal is soft or sinks, air remains in system or caliper seal has failed.
  • Start engine and verify brake pedal height and firmness with power assist. Pedal should be firm in upper third of travel.
  • Inspect all caliper connections and bleeder screws for any signs of brake fluid leakage while assistant applies firm pedal pressure.
  • Perform low-speed brake test in safe area away from traffic. Vehicle should stop smoothly without pulling to either side. Gradually increase speed and braking force to verify proper operation.
  • After test drive, recheck all caliper bolts, brake line connections, and fluid level. Inspect for any signs of leakage or looseness.
  • Road test vehicle in progressively more demanding conditions, verifying straight-line braking, adequate pedal feel, and no warning lights. If any abnormality is detected, immediately discontinue use and diagnose issue.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after first 50 miles of driving.
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🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
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