cooling
Engine Oil Cooler
for 2012 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · 4WD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.4 h
Tools
10
Steps
15
Replace the engine oil cooler on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost, including draining coolant, removing the oil cooler housing, installing a new cooler, and refilling coolant.
Warnings
⚠️Allow engine to cool completely before starting work. Coolant system operates at high pressure and temperature, which can cause severe burns.
⚠Engine oil and coolant will drain during this procedure. Have adequate catch containers positioned before loosening connections.
⚠The oil cooler is located in a tight area near the engine block. Take care not to damage coolant hoses or electrical connectors during removal.
ℹ️This procedure requires coolant system refill and air purging. Budget additional time for proper bleeding.
Tools required
Socket set (8mm-19mm)Essential
Torque wrench (5-50 Nm range)Essential
Drain pan (minimum 2 gallon capacity)Essential
Coolant recovery containerEssential
Hose clamp pliers
Pick set or trim tool
Ratchet extensions (3-inch and 6-inch)Essential
Shop towelsEssential
Funnel
Oil filter wrench
Parts
- Engine oil cooler assembly × 1 — Use OEM Ford specification
- Oil cooler gasket/seal kit × 1 — Use OEM Ford specification
- Coolant hose clamps × 4 — Replace if damaged
- Engine oil filter × 1 — Motorcraft FL-910S or equivalent
Fluids
- Motorcraft Orange Coolant — 2 qt
- Motorcraft 5W-20 Synthetic Blend — 1 qt
Preparation
- Ensure engine is completely cold (minimum 2 hours after last operation)
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Disconnect negative battery cable to prevent accidental electrical shorts
- Remove engine cover by pulling upward on perimeter clips
- Raise and support front of vehicle on jack stands if additional access is needed
- Place drain pan underneath radiator and engine oil cooler area
Procedure
- 1Drain engine coolantLocate the radiator drain plug on the driver's side lower corner of the radiator. Slowly open the drain plug and allow coolant to drain into a suitable container. If vehicle is equipped with a coolant drain on the engine block, open this as well for more complete drainage.Torque specCoolant Drain Plug15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
- 2Relieve cooling system pressure and disconnect hosesRemove the coolant reservoir cap to fully relieve any residual pressure. Locate the coolant hoses connected to the oil cooler housing on the driver's side of the engine block. Using hose clamp pliers, reposition or remove the hose clamps on both inlet and outlet hoses. Carefully twist and pull hoses off the oil cooler fittings. Expect residual coolant spillage.⚠Even after draining, residual coolant remains in hoses and passages. Keep drain pan positioned to catch spillage.Torque specHose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)
- 3Disconnect oil cooler linesLocate the engine oil lines connected to the oil cooler. These are typically quick-disconnect fittings or threaded connections. For quick-disconnect types, use a special disconnect tool or carefully pry the retaining clip while pulling the line. For threaded connections, use a line wrench to prevent rounding. Allow oil to drain into the pan. Cap or plug open lines to prevent contamination.⚠Hot engine oil may still be present in the cooler and lines. Wear appropriate gloves and eye protection.
- 4Remove oil filter and housing access componentsRemove the engine oil filter using an oil filter wrench. This provides better access to the oil cooler and prevents old oil from spilling during cooler removal. If any wiring harnesses, brackets, or accessory components obstruct access to the oil cooler mounting bolts, carefully disconnect or reposition them. Note routing for reassembly.ℹ️Take photos of wire harness routing and bracket positions before removal to ensure correct reassembly.
- 5Remove oil cooler housing mounting boltsLocate the oil cooler housing bolts securing the assembly to the engine block. On the 3.5L EcoBoost, these are typically located on the driver's side of the block near the oil filter area. Remove the mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern to prevent warping the housing. Support the oil cooler as you remove the final bolts to prevent it from dropping.Torque specHousing Bolts16 Nm (12 lb-ft)
- 6Remove oil cooler assemblyCarefully pull the oil cooler assembly away from the engine block. It may be stuck due to gasket adhesion or O-ring seals. Gently wiggle and pry if necessary, taking care not to gouge the engine block mating surface. Once removed, allow any remaining oil and coolant to drain into the pan.⚠Do not use excessive force or sharp tools that could damage the engine block sealing surface.
- 7Clean mating surfacesThoroughly clean the engine block mating surface where the oil cooler mounts. Remove all traces of old gasket material, sealant, oil residue, and coolant deposits using a plastic scraper and clean shop towels. The surface must be completely clean and dry for proper seal. Inspect the surface for damage, cracks, or deep scratches that could prevent proper sealing.ℹ️Use only plastic scrapers or gasket removal tools on aluminum surfaces to prevent damage. Do not use metal scrapers or abrasive pads.
- 8Prepare new oil cooler assemblyUnpack the new oil cooler assembly and verify it matches the old unit. Install new gaskets and O-rings included in the seal kit onto the new cooler. Lightly lubricate O-rings with clean engine oil to aid installation and prevent tearing. Ensure all sealing surfaces on the new cooler are clean and free of protective coatings or debris.ℹ️Do not reuse old gaskets or O-rings. Always use new seals included with the replacement oil cooler.
- 9Install new oil cooler assemblyCarefully position the new oil cooler assembly onto the engine block, aligning the bolt holes and ensuring gaskets remain properly seated. Start all housing bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Once all bolts are started, tighten them in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque to ensure even gasket compression and prevent leaks.⚠Tighten bolts gradually in multiple passes using a criss-cross pattern. Uneven tightening can warp the housing and cause leaks.Torque specHousing Bolts16 Nm (12 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect oil cooler linesReconnect the engine oil lines to the oil cooler fittings. For quick-disconnect fittings, push firmly until you hear or feel a click indicating proper engagement. For threaded connections, hand-tighten first, then use a line wrench to snug. Do not overtighten as this can damage the fittings. Verify connections are secure.ℹ️Inspect oil line O-rings before reconnection. Replace if damaged, flattened, or hardened.
- 11Reconnect coolant hosesReconnect the coolant inlet and outlet hoses to the oil cooler fittings. Ensure hoses are fully seated onto the fittings. Install new hose clamps or reposition original clamps to the proper location (approximately 1/4 inch from hose end). Tighten clamps to specification using a torque wrench with appropriate adapter or tighten firmly by hand without overtightening.Torque specHose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)
- 12Install new oil filter and reinstall componentsLightly oil the new oil filter gasket with clean engine oil. Thread the new oil filter onto the mounting base by hand until gasket contact, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn. Reinstall any wiring harnesses, brackets, or accessories that were removed for access. Ensure all electrical connectors are fully seated and secured.ℹ️Do not use an oil filter wrench to install the filter. Hand-tighten only to prevent gasket damage.
- 13Refill engine coolantClose the radiator drain plug and tighten to specification. Fill the cooling system with the specified Motorcraft Orange Coolant through the coolant reservoir or radiator fill point. Fill slowly to allow air to escape. Continue filling until coolant level reaches the COLD FULL mark on the reservoir. Leave the reservoir cap off for the next step.ℹ️Use only the specified Motorcraft Orange Coolant. Mixing coolant types can cause system damage.Torque specCoolant Drain Plug15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
- 14Bleed cooling systemWith the reservoir cap still off, start the engine and allow it to idle. Turn the heater to maximum temperature and fan speed. As the engine warms, the thermostat will open and coolant will begin circulating. Watch for the coolant level to drop in the reservoir and add coolant as needed to maintain the COLD FULL level. Continue running until the cooling fans cycle on and off at least once, indicating the system has reached operating temperature. Check for leaks around the oil cooler connections.⚠Monitor engine temperature gauge closely. If temperature rises above normal, shut down immediately and recheck for leaks or air pockets.
- 15Top off fluids and final checksShut off the engine and allow it to cool for 15 minutes. Recheck the coolant level in the reservoir and top off to the COLD FULL mark if needed. Install the reservoir cap securely. Check the engine oil level on the dipstick and add oil if necessary to bring it to the FULL mark. Reinstall the engine cover by pressing down on all clips until fully seated. Reconnect the negative battery cable.ℹ️Oil level may appear lower than before due to new filter and cooler capacity. Add oil as needed to reach proper level.
Reassembly
- Ensure all hose clamps are properly positioned and tightened
- Verify all electrical connectors are fully seated and locked
- Double-check that all mounting bolts are torqued to specification
- Confirm engine cover clips are fully engaged on all sides
Verification
- Start the engine and allow it to idle for 5 minutes while monitoring for leaks around the oil cooler housing and hose connections
- Check coolant reservoir level after engine reaches operating temperature and top off if necessary
- Verify engine oil level is within the FULL mark range on the dipstick
- Take a test drive and monitor engine temperature gauge for normal operation
- After test drive, recheck all connections for signs of oil or coolant leakage
- Monitor coolant and oil levels over the next few days and top off as needed during break-in period