suspension
Lateral Arm
for 2012 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
10
Steps
11
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the front lower lateral arm (control arm) on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠The ball joint separator can slip and cause injury. Wear safety glasses and keep hands clear of pinch points.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension. Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure.
ℹ️Inspect all suspension components for wear during this repair, including ball joints, bushings, and sway bar links.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (50-200 lb-ft range)Essential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
18mm socket for ball joint nutEssential
18mm wrench for control arm boltsEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Breaker barEssential
Parts
- Front lower lateral arm (control arm) × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
- Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Replace if damaged
- Cotter pin for ball joint × 1 — Standard replacement item
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and set parking brake
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
- Remove front wheel on the side being serviced
- Apply penetrating oil to ball joint nut and control arm bolts, allow to soak 10-15 minutes
- Support lower control arm with floor jack positioned near ball joint
Procedure
- 1Remove ball joint castle nutRemove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut. Using an 18mm socket, remove the ball joint castle nut from the lower ball joint stud where it connects to the steering knuckle. Keep the floor jack supporting the control arm to maintain suspension position.
- 2Separate ball joint from knuckleUsing a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork, separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Work carefully to avoid damaging the knuckle or brake components. Once separated, carefully lower the floor jack slightly to allow the control arm to drop away from the knuckle.⚠The control arm may drop suddenly when the ball joint releases. Maintain control of the floor jack.
- 3Remove front control arm boltLocate the front control arm mounting bolt at the front subframe attachment point. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and any washers. Note the orientation of washers and spacers for reinstallation. The bolt may be very tight and require a breaker bar.
- 4Remove rear control arm boltLocate the rear control arm mounting bolt at the rear subframe attachment point. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and any washers. Again, note orientation of all components. Lower the floor jack and remove the control arm from the vehicle.
- 5Inspect and clean mounting pointsInspect the subframe mounting points for damage, corrosion, or worn bushings. Use a wire brush to clean the bolt holes and mounting surfaces. Inspect the ball joint taper in the steering knuckle for damage. Check the new control arm bushings for proper fitment before installation.
- 6Install new control armPosition the new control arm into place, aligning the mounting holes with the subframe. Support with the floor jack if needed. Insert the front and rear control arm bolts with washers in their correct orientation, but do NOT torque them yet. Thread the bolts in by hand first to ensure proper alignment.
- 7Connect ball joint to knuckleRaise the control arm using the floor jack until the ball joint stud aligns with the hole in the steering knuckle. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle and install the new castle nut. Tighten the castle nut to specification, ensuring the cotter pin holes align. If necessary, tighten slightly more (never back off) to align the holes.Torque specBall Joint Nut101 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 8Install cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud. Bend the ends of the cotter pin to secure it properly, ensuring it cannot work loose. Trim excess length if necessary.
- 9Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not yet fully loaded. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern, then lower the vehicle completely so the full weight is on the wheels.
- 10Torque control arm bolts with weight on suspensionWith the vehicle weight fully on the suspension (wheels on ground), torque the front and rear control arm bolts to specification. This is critical for proper bushing alignment and longevity. Use a torque wrench and 18mm socket.⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension. Torquing them while suspended will cause premature bushing failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 11Torque wheel lug nutsUsing a torque wrench and 21mm socket, torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern to ensure even seating of the wheel.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification
- Verify cotter pin is properly installed and secured
- Double-check that control arm bolts were torqued with vehicle weight on suspension
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle and listen for unusual noises from the front suspension
- Verify steering feels normal with no binding or unusual feedback
- Check for proper wheel alignment; schedule alignment service if vehicle pulls to one side
- Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving
- Visually inspect the control arm installation after test drive for any signs of improper installation