This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear lower control arm on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD, including disconnection of the ball joint and control arm mounting points.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear lower control arm × 1 — Use OEM or quality aftermarket equivalent
• Ball joint castle nut (if not reusable) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Control arm mounting bolts and nuts × 1 — Use OEM hardware if corroded

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks at front wheels
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
4. Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands under frame rails
5. Remove rear wheel on affected side
6. Apply penetrating oil to control arm bolts and ball joint nut if fasteners show corrosion
7. Inspect control arm and suspension components for additional damage or wear

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the rear knuckle assembly
   Position a floor jack under the rear knuckle/hub assembly to support the weight of the suspension. Raise the jack just enough to take the load off the lower control arm without lifting the vehicle off the jack stands. This prevents the suspension from dropping when the control arm is disconnected.
2. 2

   Remove ball joint castle nut
   Locate the ball joint connection where the lower control arm attaches to the rear knuckle. Remove the cotter pin if equipped. Using a socket and breaker bar, remove the castle nut securing the ball joint to the knuckle. The nut requires significant force to loosen.
   ⚠Ball joint may be under tension. Control the socket to prevent sudden release.
3. 3

   Separate ball joint from knuckle
   Using a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork, separate the lower control arm ball joint from the rear knuckle. Insert the tool between the control arm and knuckle, then strike or tighten as appropriate for your tool type until the taper releases. The knuckle will drop slightly when separated - the floor jack will control this movement.
   ⚠Pickle fork tools will likely damage the ball joint boot. Use only if replacing the control arm.
4. 4

   Remove front control arm mounting bolt
   Locate the front mounting point where the control arm attaches to the frame or subframe. This is typically a large through-bolt with a nut on the opposite side. Hold the nut with one wrench while removing the bolt with a socket and breaker bar. The bolt may be seized due to road exposure - use penetrating oil and heat if necessary. Remove the bolt completely.
5. 5

   Remove rear control arm mounting bolt
   Locate the rear mounting point where the control arm attaches to the frame or subframe. Using the same method as the front bolt, hold the nut while removing the bolt. This bolt may require significant force to loosen. Once both mounting bolts are removed, support the control arm as it may drop.
6. 6

   Remove old control arm
   With both mounting bolts and the ball joint disconnected, maneuver the control arm out of the mounting locations. You may need to use a pry bar to shift the arm forward or rearward to clear the mounting brackets. Inspect the mounting bushings in the frame for damage or excessive wear. Clean the mounting bolt holes with a wire brush.
7. 7

   Install new control arm
   Position the new control arm into the mounting brackets. Insert the front mounting bolt through the control arm bushing and frame bracket, then thread the nut on a few turns. Do not tighten yet. Repeat for the rear mounting bolt. Ensure the control arm is properly oriented with the ball joint facing the knuckle. Thread both nuts on finger tight only at this stage.
8. 8

   Connect ball joint to knuckle
   Raise the floor jack under the knuckle to align the ball joint stud with the hole in the knuckle. You may need to pry or manipulate the knuckle position slightly. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle and thread on the new castle nut. Tighten the nut to specification using a torque wrench. Install a new cotter pin if the nut design requires it.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut101 Nm (75 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install wheel and lower vehicle
   Install the wheel onto the hub and thread the lug nuts on by hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern until snug but not fully torqued. Lower the vehicle until the tires contact the ground but the jack stands still support most of the weight. Remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle completely so the full weight is on the wheels.
10. 10

    Torque control arm bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle weight fully on the wheels, crawl under the vehicle and torque the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. This must be done at normal ride height to prevent preloading the bushings. Use a torque wrench and tighten each bolt to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft). Verify both bolts are properly torqued.
    ⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued at ride height. Torquing while suspended will cause premature bushing failure.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Torque wheel lug nuts
    Using a torque wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the specified torque of 156 Nm (115 lb-ft). Make at least two complete passes in the star pattern to ensure even torque distribution.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification
2. Verify the ball joint castle nut is properly secured with cotter pin if applicable
3. Check that no tools or parts were left in the wheel well or under the vehicle

Verification

• Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises from the rear suspension
• Check for proper suspension movement over bumps
• Verify no clunking or looseness in the rear end during acceleration and braking
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment as suspension geometry will be affected by the new control arm
• Re-torque all fasteners after 50-100 miles of driving and re-check alignment

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