This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the outer tie rod assembly on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost engine, including proper torque specifications and alignment requirements.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Cotter pin × 1 — 3/32 inch diameter
• Tie rod boot (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen wheel lug nuts on the side being serviced while vehicle is still on ground
4. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame-rated lift points
5. Remove wheel completely

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark tie rod position for reference
   Before removing the tie rod end, use a white paint marker to mark the exact position of the outer tie rod end on the threads of the inner tie rod shaft. Also count and record the number of visible threads beyond the lock nut. This will help approximate initial toe setting and minimize alignment deviation.
2. 2

   Remove cotter pin from castle nut
   Locate the cotter pin inserted through the tie rod end castle nut and steering knuckle. Using needle-nose pliers, straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin and pull it completely out. Discard the old cotter pin as a new one must be used during reassembly.
3. 3

   Remove tie rod end castle nut
   Using a 21mm socket or wrench, remove the castle nut securing the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Do not reuse this nut if it shows any signs of thread damage or distortion. Keep track of any washers or spacers.
4. 4

   Separate tie rod end from knuckle
   Using a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork, separate the tie rod end taper from the steering knuckle bore. Position the separator between the knuckle and tie rod end housing, then strike with a hammer or apply pressure per tool design. Avoid damaging the knuckle bore or tie rod boot on adjacent components. The tie rod end should pop free from the taper once separation occurs.
   ⚠If reusing the tie rod end, avoid using a pickle fork as it typically damages the tie rod boot. Use a proper tie rod separator tool instead.
5. 5

   Loosen tie rod lock nut
   Locate the jam nut (lock nut) where the outer tie rod end threads onto the inner tie rod shaft. Use a 19mm wrench to loosen this lock nut but do not remove it completely yet. If corrosion is present, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak for several minutes before attempting removal.
6. 6

   Remove outer tie rod end
   While holding the lock nut in place with one wrench, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft by turning it counterclockwise. Count the number of complete rotations required to remove it as an additional reference for installation. Once free, remove both the tie rod end and lock nut.
7. 7

   Inspect and clean threads
   Inspect the threads on the inner tie rod shaft for damage, corrosion, or excessive wear. Clean threads thoroughly with a wire brush. Check the tie rod boot for tears or damage. Replace the boot if compromised. Inspect the steering knuckle taper bore for damage or excessive wear.
8. 8

   Install new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod shaft, aligning with the reference marks made during removal. Thread it on the same number of turns counted during removal. This provides an approximate starting point for alignment. Do not fully tighten the lock nut at this time.
9. 9

   Install tie rod end to knuckle
   Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle taper bore. Ensure the stud seats fully into the taper. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification using a torque wrench. The castle nut slots must align with the hole in the stud for cotter pin installation.
   ⚠If castle nut slots do not align with cotter pin hole at proper torque, tighten further up to the next alignment point. Never loosen the nut to align slots.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Nut62 Nm (46 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install new cotter pin
    Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and tie rod end stud. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castle nut to secure it in place. Ensure the cotter pin cannot back out during operation. Trim excess length if necessary, but ensure sufficient material remains to prevent loosening.
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Install the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground to prevent wheel rotation. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Tighten tie rod lock nut after alignment
    After completing the wheel alignment at a professional alignment shop, the technician will tighten the tie rod lock nut to specification. If performing a temporary setting before alignment, snug the lock nut to prevent the tie rod from rotating, but inform the alignment technician to torque properly after final adjustment.
    ℹ️The tie rod lock nut must be torqued to specification only after final alignment adjustment is complete to prevent disturbing the toe setting.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod Lock Nut78 Nm (58 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all torque specifications have been met, particularly the tie rod end castle nut and wheel lug nuts
2. Verify new cotter pin is properly installed and secured
3. Confirm tie rod boot is properly seated and not damaged

Verification

• Verify tie rod end has no play by grasping the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock positions and attempting to rock it side-to-side while vehicle is raised
• Visually inspect that cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent removal
• Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify steering response before scheduling alignment
• Have vehicle professionally aligned immediately after tie rod replacement
• After alignment, verify steering wheel is centered and vehicle tracks straight on level road

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