steering
Tie Rods - Both Sides
for 2012 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.4 h
Tools
12
Steps
14
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of both inner and outer tie rods on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD, requiring a professional alignment upon completion.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands - never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack
⚠Professional wheel alignment is mandatory after tie rod replacement to prevent tire wear and unsafe handling
⚠Do not turn the steering wheel with tie rods disconnected from the knuckles as this can damage the clockspring
ℹ️Take photos or mark tie rod positions before removal to approximate original alignment settings for easier post-repair alignment
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (30-160 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
19mm socketEssential
21mm socketEssential
18mm wrenchEssential
Needle nose pliers (for cotter pins)Essential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Measuring tape or tie rod marking toolEssential
Ball joint separator
Adjustable wrench or large crescent wrenchEssential
Parts
- Outer tie rod end - Driver side × 1 — Use OEM Motorcraft or quality aftermarket
- Outer tie rod end - Passenger side × 1 — Use OEM Motorcraft or quality aftermarket
- Inner tie rod - Driver side × 1 — Use OEM Motorcraft or quality aftermarket
- Inner tie rod - Passenger side × 1 — Use OEM Motorcraft or quality aftermarket
- Cotter pins × 4 — Standard automotive cotter pins
- Thread locker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 242 or equivalent
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer lift points
- Remove both front wheels completely
- Spray all tie rod threads and castle nuts with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
- Turn steering wheel to center position and ensure ignition is off
Procedure
- 1Measure and document outer tie rod positionBefore loosening anything, measure the exposed thread length from the outer tie rod jam nut to the end of the outer tie rod. Record this measurement for both sides. Alternatively, use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod relative to the inner tie rod threads. This helps maintain approximate toe settings for driving to alignment shop.
- 2Remove outer tie rod end cotter pin and castle nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut using needle nose pliers. Using a 21mm socket, remove the castle nut from the outer tie rod ball stud. Do not reuse the old cotter pin.
- 3Separate outer tie rod from steering knuckleUse a tie rod end separator or pickle fork to separate the outer tie rod ball stud from the steering knuckle. Position the separator between the knuckle and tie rod end, and strike with a hammer or use the threaded separator tool to pop the taper loose. Avoid damaging the rubber boot if reusing the tie rod.⚠Pickle forks will damage the tie rod boot - use a proper ball joint separator if attempting to preserve the old tie rod
- 4Remove outer tie rod from inner tie rodUsing an 18mm wrench, loosen the tie rod jam nut (lock nut) on the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of turns required to completely unthread the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod. Remove the outer tie rod and jam nut completely.
- 5Remove inner tie rod boot clampsLocate the steering rack boot that covers the inner tie rod connection. Use pliers to remove or cut the boot clamps on both ends of the boot. Slide the boot away from the inner tie rod to expose the inner tie rod connection to the steering rack.
- 6Remove inner tie rod from steering rackThe inner tie rod is threaded onto the steering rack with a stake nut or crimped connection. Use a 19mm wrench or appropriate inner tie rod tool to grip the flats on the inner tie rod near the rack. Turn counterclockwise to unthread the inner tie rod from the steering rack. If staked, you may need to carefully file or grind the staked portion before removal.ℹ️Some inner tie rods require a special crowfoot wrench tool for proper removal and installation without damaging the rack boot
- 7Install new inner tie rodClean the threads on the steering rack with a wire brush. Apply a small amount of medium-strength thread locker to the new inner tie rod threads. Thread the new inner tie rod onto the steering rack by hand, then tighten using the inner tie rod tool or wrench. Torque to specification.ℹ️Ensure threads are fully engaged and inner tie rod is seated properly against the rack before final tighteningTorque specTie Rod Nut62 Nm (46 lb-ft)
- 8Install steering rack bootSlide the steering rack boot back over the inner tie rod and seat it properly on both the rack housing and the inner tie rod. Install new boot clamps and tighten securely. Ensure the boot is not twisted and is properly sealed to prevent contamination.
- 9Install outer tie rod to inner tie rodThread the jam nut onto the new inner tie rod threads first. Then thread the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns counted during removal, or to match the measurement taken earlier. Do not tighten the jam nut yet.
- 10Install outer tie rod to steering knuckleInsert the outer tie rod ball stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification using a 21mm socket and torque wrench. The castle nut slots must align with the ball stud hole for cotter pin installation. If needed, tighten further to next slot alignment - never loosen to align.⚠Castle nut must only be tightened beyond torque spec to align cotter pin holes, never loosenedTorque specTie Rod End Nut62 Nm (46 lb-ft)
- 11Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud hole. Bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut to secure it in place. Ensure the cotter pin is properly installed and cannot work loose.
- 12Repeat for opposite sidePerform steps 1 through 11 for the opposite side tie rod assembly, following the same procedures for both inner and outer tie rod replacement.
- 13Install wheels and lower vehicleReinstall both front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until tires touch the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)
- 14Tighten tie rod jam nuts after alignmentAfter professional wheel alignment is completed, ensure the alignment technician has properly torqued the tie rod jam nuts (lock nuts) to specification. If performing the alignment yourself, torque both jam nuts after final toe adjustment is complete.ℹ️Jam nuts should only be final-torqued after alignment is complete to prevent disturbing toe settingsTorque specTie Rod Lock Nut78 Nm (58 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all cotter pins are properly installed and secured
- Confirm all jam nuts will be torqued after alignment
- Check that steering rack boots are properly sealed with clamps installed
- Ensure no tools or parts were left in wheel wells
Verification
- Test steering for full left and right lock with no binding or unusual noises
- Verify no play exists in tie rod connections by having helper turn steering wheel while you inspect each tie rod end for movement
- Schedule immediate professional wheel alignment - vehicle is not safe to drive at highway speeds until aligned
- After alignment, test drive at low speed to verify steering feel and response
- Re-check all torque specifications after 50-100 miles of driving