Back to 2012 Ford F-150

2012 FORD F-150

3.5L V6 EcoBoost4WDAUTOMATICgasturbo
4 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs456Labor597Torque3820Fluid9DTC949Battery1Maintenance0Recalls4
suspension

Upper Control Arm - Front

for 2012 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
12
Steps
14

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the front upper control arm on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD, including ball joint separation and proper torque sequencing.

Warnings

⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
Control arm bolts must be torqued at ride height or with suspension loaded. Torquing with suspension hanging will cause premature bushing failure.
Ball joint taper must be separated properly to avoid damage to the knuckle. Do not use excessive force with hammers on steering/suspension components.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
19mm socketEssential
21mm socketEssential
18mm wrenchEssential
Ratchet and extension setEssential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Anti-seize compound
Penetrating oil

Parts

  • Upper control arm assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
  • Ball joint castle nut (if not included) × 1 — M14 x 2.0 prevailing torque nut
  • Cotter pin (if applicable) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
  3. Raise front of vehicle and support on jack stands at frame rails behind front crossmember
  4. Remove front wheel on side being serviced
  5. Spray penetrating oil on ball joint nut, control arm bolts, and frame mounting bolts; allow to soak 10-15 minutes
  6. Inspect replacement control arm to verify correct part and that ball joint is properly seated

Procedure

  1. 1
    Support the lower control arm
    Position a floor jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint to support the weight of the knuckle and prevent the suspension from dropping when the upper ball joint is disconnected. Raise jack just enough to slightly compress the suspension.
  2. 2
    Remove the upper ball joint nut
    Remove the cotter pin if equipped. Using a 21mm socket, remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud. Keep the nut accessible as you may need to thread it back on partially during separation.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Separate the ball joint from the knuckle
    Insert a ball joint separator tool between the upper control arm and the steering knuckle. Apply pressure to break the taper fit. Alternatively, use a pickle fork, but note this may damage the ball joint boot. Once the taper breaks free, the knuckle will drop slightly onto the floor jack supporting the lower arm. Remove the ball joint stud from the knuckle.
    Do not strike the ball joint stud directly with a hammer as this can damage the threads and make reinstallation difficult.
  4. 4
    Remove the rear control arm mounting bolt
    Locate the rear (towards firewall) control arm-to-frame bolt. This is a horizontal bolt passing through the rear bushing. Using an 18mm wrench to hold the nut and a 21mm socket on the bolt head, remove the bolt completely. Note the orientation and any washers or sleeves.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm-to-Frame Bolts150 Nm (111 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Remove the front control arm mounting bolt
    Locate the front control arm-to-frame bolt. This bolt also passes horizontally through the front bushing. Using an 18mm wrench on the nut and 21mm socket on the bolt, remove this bolt. The control arm should now be free to remove.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm-to-Frame Bolts150 Nm (111 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Remove the upper control arm
    Maneuver the control arm out of the frame mounts. You may need to rotate or angle it to clear brake lines, ABS wiring, and other components. Inspect the frame mounting points for damage, rust, or worn bushings in the frame brackets.
  7. 7
    Prepare and install the new control arm
    Clean the frame mounting surfaces with a wire brush. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the bolt threads (not on the bolt shank that contacts bushings). Position the new control arm into the frame brackets, ensuring proper orientation with the ball joint pointing down and toward the wheel.
    ℹ️Verify the replacement control arm matches the original in configuration. Some F-150s have different arm designs based on trim level and suspension package.
  8. 8
    Install control arm mounting bolts (hand tight only)
    Insert both front and rear control arm-to-frame bolts through the bushings and frame brackets. Thread the nuts on by hand, then snug them finger-tight or lightly with a wrench. DO NOT torque these bolts yet - they must be torqued at ride height.
    These bolts must remain loose until the suspension is at ride height. Torquing with the suspension unloaded will twist the bushings and cause premature failure.
  9. 9
    Connect the ball joint to the knuckle
    Raise the floor jack under the lower control arm to lift the knuckle up to the upper ball joint stud. Align the ball joint stud with the hole in the top of the knuckle. The stud should insert freely - if not, adjust jack height. Install the castle nut on the ball joint stud.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Torque the ball joint nut
    Using a torque wrench and 21mm socket, torque the ball joint castle nut to 115 Nm (85 lb-ft). If using a castle nut with cotter pin, torque to spec then advance the nut (do not back off) to align the next slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the tabs to secure.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Load the suspension to ride height
    Remove jack stands from under the frame. Lower the vehicle so the tires are just touching the ground but the full weight is still on the floor jack under the frame. Alternatively, place jack stands under the lower control arms to simulate ride height loading. The suspension must be at normal ride height position before torquing frame bolts.
    This is the critical step for bushing longevity. The suspension must be loaded to prevent bushing wind-up.
  12. 12
    Torque the control arm frame bolts
    With the suspension at ride height, torque both the front and rear control arm-to-frame bolts to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft). Use an 18mm wrench to prevent the nut from rotating while torquing the bolt head with a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm-to-Frame Bolts150 Nm (111 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Reinstall the wheel
    Raise the vehicle slightly if needed and remove the floor jack from under the lower control arm. Install the wheel onto the hub, threading lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire contacts the ground to prevent wheel rotation.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)
  14. 14
    Torque wheel lug nuts
    Using a torque wrench, torque the wheel lug nuts to 156 Nm (115 lb-ft) in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle to the ground and remove all jacks and jack stands.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Verify all fasteners have been installed and properly torqued
  2. Check that no tools or parts were left in the wheel well or under the vehicle
  3. Ensure the ball joint cotter pin is properly installed and secured if equipped

Verification

  • Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises from the front suspension
  • Check for proper steering response and wheel alignment
  • After 50-100 miles, re-check torque on all fasteners, particularly the ball joint nut and control arm frame bolts
  • Have a professional wheel alignment performed, as replacing the upper control arm will affect camber and caster settings

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