suspension
Upper Control Arm - Rear
for 2012 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
10
Steps
11
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear upper control arm on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 4WD with 3.5L EcoBoost engine.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands.
⚠The rear suspension is under load. Control arms may shift unexpectedly when fasteners are loosened.
⚠Ball joint separator tools can slip under pressure. Keep hands and face clear of impact zones.
ℹ️Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension to prevent bushing bind and premature wear.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
18mm socket and wrench for control arm boltsEssential
15mm socket for ball joint nutEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Ratchet and extension setEssential
Parts
- Rear upper control arm assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
- Ball joint castle nut (if not reusable) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin for ball joint × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Chock front wheels securely
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support securely with jack stands under frame rails
- Remove rear wheel on side being serviced
- Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Support rear knuckle assemblyPosition a floor jack under the rear knuckle/axle assembly to support its weight. Raise jack until it just contacts the assembly but does not lift the vehicle. This prevents the suspension from dropping when the upper control arm is disconnected.
- 2Remove ball joint cotter pin and nutLocate the upper control arm ball joint where it connects to the knuckle. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Using a 15mm socket, remove the ball joint castle nut completely. Keep the nut if it is in good condition, otherwise replace.
- 3Separate ball joint from knuckleInstall a ball joint separator tool between the upper control arm and knuckle. Tighten or strike the separator according to tool design to break the taper connection. Once separated, support the control arm to prevent it from falling. The knuckle will drop slightly onto the floor jack.⚠Ball joint may release suddenly. Ensure jack is supporting knuckle weight and keep hands clear.
- 4Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the frame bracket. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut. The bolt passes through a bushing in the control arm. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.
- 5Remove rear control arm mounting boltLocate the rear mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the frame bracket. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut. Support the control arm as you remove the final fastener, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.
- 6Inspect mounting points and cleanInspect the frame mounting brackets for damage, cracks, or excessive rust. Use a wire brush to clean the bolt holes and mounting surfaces. Check the knuckle ball joint taper seat for damage or deformation. Clean any corrosion or debris from all mounting surfaces.
- 7Install new upper control armPosition the new control arm into the frame brackets. Insert both front and rear mounting bolts through the bushings and frame brackets, but do not tighten fully yet. Thread nuts onto bolts finger-tight only. The control arm should move freely on the bolts at this stage.
- 8Connect ball joint to knuckleAlign the ball joint stud with the hole in the knuckle. You may need to raise or lower the floor jack slightly to align the components. Once aligned, install the castle nut onto the ball joint stud and tighten to specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud, bending the pin ends to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut101 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 9Lower vehicle to load suspensionRemove jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle until the full weight is on the wheels, but keep the floor jack partially supporting the vehicle for safety. The suspension must be at normal ride height with vehicle weight on the wheels before torquing control arm bolts. Do not allow vehicle to rest on the floor yet.
- 10Torque control arm mounting boltsWith vehicle weight on the suspension, torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification using an 18mm socket and torque wrench. This is critical to prevent bushing bind. Torque both bolts while the suspension is loaded.⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension. Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleRaise vehicle slightly and remove the floor jack from under the knuckle. Install the rear wheel and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle completely to the ground. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification
- Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent in ball joint castle nut
- Remove all tools and equipment from under vehicle
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and listen for unusual noises from rear suspension
- Verify no clunking or looseness when driving over bumps
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible, as suspension geometry has been altered
- After 50-100 miles, re-check torque on all fasteners