Back to 2012 Ford F-150

2012 FORD F-150

3.5L V6 EcoBoost4WDAUTOMATICgasturbo
4 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs445Labor566Torque3789Fluid9DTC949Battery1Maintenance0Recalls4
drivetrain

Wheel Studs

for 2012 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
9
Steps
9

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of wheel studs on the front or rear hubs of a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost engine and 4WD.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
Damaged wheel studs can cause wheel detachment while driving. Inspect all studs during this repair and replace any that show thread damage, corrosion, or deformation.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (50-300 lb-ft range)Essential
1/2 inch drive socket setEssential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Ball peen hammer or brass hammerEssential
Wheel stud removal/installation tool or suitable pressEssential
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Breaker bar

Parts

  • Wheel stud(s) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on a level, firm surface and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn before raising vehicle
  3. Raise vehicle with floor jack at appropriate jacking point for the wheel being serviced
  4. Support vehicle securely on jack stands
  5. Remove wheel and tire assembly completely

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove wheel and inspect hub
    With the wheel removed, inspect the hub face and remaining wheel studs for damage or corrosion. Clean the hub mounting surface with a wire brush to remove any rust or debris. Identify which stud(s) need replacement.
  2. 2
    Position brake rotor for access
    Rotate the brake rotor to position the damaged stud at a location that provides maximum clearance from the brake caliper, suspension components, and frame. This will allow room for the stud to be driven out from behind. On some positions, you may need to turn the steering wheel to full lock for additional clearance on front wheels.
  3. 3
    Remove damaged wheel stud
    Using a ball peen hammer or brass hammer, strike the back of the damaged stud firmly to drive it out of the hub. The stud is press-fit and will require significant force. Strike the stud squarely on the back face to avoid bending it, which could damage the hub bore. Continue striking until the stud is completely free from the hub.
  4. 4
    Clean stud bore in hub
    Once the old stud is removed, clean the bore in the hub thoroughly with a wire brush. Remove any rust, corrosion, or debris from the bore. Inspect the bore for damage - if the bore is wallowed out or damaged, the hub assembly may need replacement. The new stud must fit tightly in the bore.
  5. 5
    Install new wheel stud
    Insert the new wheel stud into the hub bore from the back side, ensuring the serrations on the stud are aligned properly with the hub. Push the stud in by hand as far as possible. The stud should enter the bore straight and not be cocked at an angle.
  6. 6
    Pull stud into final position
    Use a wheel stud installation tool or stack several washers and a lug nut to pull the stud into its final seated position. Thread the lug nut onto the stud from the front side with washers behind it. Tighten the lug nut gradually, which will pull the stud through the hub until the serrated shoulder seats firmly against the back of the hub flange. You will feel resistance increase as the stud seats fully. Remove the installation tool, washers, and lug nut.
  7. 7
    Verify stud installation
    Inspect the installed stud to ensure it is fully seated with the shoulder tight against the back of the hub. The stud should not rotate when you attempt to turn it by hand. Check that adequate thread protrudes from the front of the hub - compare to adjacent studs. If replacing multiple studs, repeat steps 2-7 for each stud.
  8. 8
    Reinstall wheel and tire
    Position the wheel onto the hub, aligning the lug nut holes with the studs including the new stud(s). Thread all lug nuts on by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern with a hand wrench but do not torque fully while vehicle is on jack stands.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Lower vehicle and torque lug nuts
    Remove jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle until the tire contacts the ground but the vehicle weight is not fully on the wheel. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench. Lower the vehicle completely and verify torque on all lug nuts one final time in a star pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Always torque lug nuts in a star/cross pattern to ensure even pressure distribution on the wheel and hub
  2. New wheel studs should be re-torqued after 50-100 miles of driving as a best practice

Verification

  • Verify all lug nuts are torqued to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern
  • Attempt to rotate each new stud by hand - it should not turn in the hub
  • Visually confirm that stud protrusion matches adjacent original studs
  • Test drive vehicle at low speed and listen for any unusual noises from the wheel area
  • Re-check lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving

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