brakes
Brake Caliper - Rear
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace the rear brake caliper on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 engine, including bleeding the brake system to restore proper braking function.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL SYSTEM: Brake system failure can result in loss of vehicle control, serious injury, or death. If you are uncertain about any step, seek professional service immediately.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠️Brake fluid is toxic and corrosive. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, and painted surfaces. Immediately flush with water if contact occurs.
⚠️Do not reuse copper crush washers on banjo bolts. Reused washers can cause brake fluid leaks and complete brake failure.
⚠Test brakes in a safe area at low speed before returning to normal driving. Pump brake pedal several times and verify firm pedal feel.
⚠Brake fluid absorbs moisture and degrades over time. Use only fresh, sealed brake fluid from a new container.
ℹ️This procedure is for single rear caliper replacement. Both rear calipers should be replaced as a pair for balanced braking performance.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Socket set including 18mm and 21mm socketsEssential
Brake line wrench (11mm)Essential
C-clamp or brake caliper compression toolEssential
Brake fluid catch containerEssential
Brake bleeding kit or clear tube with bottleEssential
Wire brush
Brake parts cleaner
Turkey baster or brake fluid syringe
Parts
- Rear brake caliper × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — Banjo bolt sealing washers
- Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
Fluids
- Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and place wheel chocks on front wheels
- Set parking brake and place transmission in Park (automatic) or 1st gear (manual)
- Using turkey baster or syringe, remove approximately half of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow during caliper compression
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while wheel is still on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely with jack stands under frame rails
- Remove wheel completely and set aside
- Verify vehicle is stable on jack stands before proceeding
Procedure
- 1Prepare brake caliper for removalLocate the brake caliper on the rear of the rotor. Clean the banjo bolt and caliper bolt areas with brake cleaner and wire brush to remove debris. Place a drain container under the caliper to catch brake fluid.
- 2Disconnect brake hoseUsing an 11mm brake line wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the caliper. Allow brake fluid to drain into container. Immediately plug the brake hose opening with a clean rubber cap or plug to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo bolt.⚠Brake fluid will drain when banjo bolt is removed. Keep container positioned to catch all fluid.
- 3Remove caliper mounting boltsLocate the two caliper slide bolts on the rear of the caliper. Using an 18mm socket, remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. Support the caliper with one hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.⚠Caliper will be free to fall once second bolt is removed. Support caliper weight with hand.
- 4Remove old caliperLift the caliper off the brake rotor and remove from vehicle. Inspect the caliper bracket and slide pins for damage, excessive wear, or corrosion. If bracket or slide pins are damaged, they must be replaced.
- 5Prepare caliper bracket and hardwareClean the caliper bracket mounting surfaces with wire brush and brake cleaner. Remove rust and debris from slide pin bores. If bracket bolts are being removed, clean threads and apply medium-strength threadlocker when reinstalling.ℹ️Caliper bracket does not need to be removed unless damaged or if replacing brake pads simultaneously.
- 6Prepare new caliperRemove new caliper from packaging and verify it matches the old caliper design. Remove protective caps from bleeder screw and brake hose port. Compress the caliper piston fully into its bore using a C-clamp or caliper compression tool to allow clearance over brake pads.
- 7Install new caliperPosition the new caliper over the brake rotor and onto the caliper bracket, ensuring brake pads are properly seated. Thread both caliper mounting bolts by hand first to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a torque wrench and 18mm socket, tighten both caliper mounting bolts to specification in a cross pattern.⚠️CRITICAL TORQUE SPECIFICATION: Improperly torqued caliper bolts can cause caliper detachment and complete brake failure.
- 8Connect brake hoseInstall NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting (one washer on each side of the brake hose connection point). Position banjo bolt through brake hose and into caliper. Hand-thread the banjo bolt, then tighten to specification using brake line wrench and torque wrench.⚠️CRITICAL: New copper washers are mandatory. Never reuse old washers as this will cause brake fluid leaks.
- 9Bleed brake caliperRefill master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Attach clear bleeder tube to bleeder screw with other end submerged in container with clean brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold down. Open bleeder screw 1/4 turn to release fluid and air, then close before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until fluid runs clear without air bubbles (typically 5-10 cycles). Tighten bleeder screw to specification.⚠️Do not allow brake pedal to go to floor with bleeder open. This can damage master cylinder seals.⚠Monitor master cylinder reservoir constantly during bleeding. Never allow reservoir to run dry or air will enter system.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 10Final brake fluid level adjustmentTop off master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Install reservoir cap securely. Pump brake pedal 10-15 times to seat caliper piston against pads. Pedal should feel firm after pumping. If pedal feels spongy, repeat bleeding procedure.
- 11Inspect for leaksWith assistant holding firm pressure on brake pedal, carefully inspect banjo bolt connection, bleeder screw, and caliper body for any signs of brake fluid leakage. Wipe all connections dry and observe for 30 seconds. Any fluid leakage requires immediate correction before vehicle operation.⚠️Any brake fluid leak is a critical safety failure. Do not operate vehicle if any leaks are present.
- 12Reinstall wheelClean wheel mounting surface on hub with wire brush. Mount wheel onto hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Using star pattern, snug lug nuts with hand wrench. Lower vehicle until tire just touches ground but vehicle weight is still on jack stands. Torque lug nuts to specification in star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.⚠Always tighten lug nuts in star pattern to prevent wheel warping or uneven seating.
Reassembly
- Double-check all fasteners are tightened to proper torque specifications
- Verify brake fluid reservoir is at MAX level with reservoir cap installed securely
- Ensure no tools or parts are left in wheel well or under vehicle
- Remove wheel chocks from front wheels
Verification
- With engine off, pump brake pedal 10-15 times. Pedal should become firm and maintain pressure. If pedal sinks slowly or feels spongy, system requires additional bleeding
- Visually inspect all brake connections for fluid leaks with pedal held under pressure
- Start engine and verify brake warning light is not illuminated on dashboard
- In a safe area with no traffic, test brakes at low speed (5-10 mph) to verify proper stopping function
- Gradually test brakes at higher speeds in safe area, confirming firm pedal feel and straight stopping without pulling
- After first 50-100 miles, re-inspect banjo bolt and caliper bolts for any signs of loosening or leakage
- If any abnormal brake behavior is detected (pulling, noise, soft pedal, warning lights), stop driving immediately and seek professional service