brakes
Brake Pads and Rotors - Rear
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.7 h
Tools
12
Steps
15
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace rear brake pads and rotors on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 Coyote engine, including caliper service and brake system inspection.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL SYSTEM: Brake system failure can result in loss of vehicle control, serious injury, or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this service performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands on solid, level ground.
⚠️After brake work, pump the brake pedal until firm before moving the vehicle. Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area before driving normally.
⚠Brake dust may contain asbestos or harmful materials. Do not blow off with compressed air. Use brake cleaner and capture runoff.
⚠DOT 4 brake fluid damages paint. Keep away from painted surfaces and wash immediately if spilled.
⚠Brake fluid absorbs moisture. Use only fresh fluid from a sealed container. Do not reuse old fluid.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (2)Essential
Torque wrench (capable of 140 Nm)Essential
1/2 inch drive socket setEssential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
C-clamp or brake caliper piston toolEssential
Thread locker (medium strength)Essential
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Parts
- Rear brake pad set (left and right) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Rear brake rotors × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Brake hardware kit (clips and springs) × 1 — Often included with pad set
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake firmly
- Chock the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement
- Remove approximately 1/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or fluid pump to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove
- Lift rear of vehicle with floor jack at rear differential or frame rails per owner's manual
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at manufacturer-specified jacking points
- Remove rear wheels completely and set aside
Procedure
- 1Inspect brake systemVisually inspect brake lines, hoses, calipers, and parking brake cables for damage, leaks, or excessive wear. Check caliper slide pins for seized or damaged boots. Address any issues before proceeding. Spray brake components with brake cleaner and allow to drip into catch pan.
- 2Remove caliper slide boltsLocate the two caliper slide bolts on the rear of the caliper assembly. Remove both slide bolts completely using appropriate socket. Support the caliper to prevent it from hanging by the brake hose.⚠Do not let caliper hang by brake hose as this can damage the hose internally and cause brake failure.Torque specCaliper Slide Bolts42 Nm (31 lb-ft)
- 3Remove caliperCarefully lift the caliper off the rotor and bracket. Support caliper by hanging from suspension or frame using wire or bungee cord. Do not disconnect brake hose unless caliper replacement is needed.
- 4Remove old brake padsRemove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket. Note the orientation and position of any anti-rattle clips or shims for reinstallation. Remove and discard old brake hardware clips from the bracket.
- 5Remove caliper bracketRemove the two caliper bracket bolts securing the bracket to the axle housing using appropriate socket. Remove the bracket completely. Keep bolts organized as they will be reused with thread locker.ℹ️These bolts are high-torque and may require significant force to remove. Ensure socket is fully seated to prevent rounding.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts201 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 6Remove old rotorPull the old rotor off the hub. If rotor is stuck due to rust or corrosion, use penetrating oil and tap gently with rubber mallet around the hat section. Do not strike the rotor friction surface. If rotor has retaining screws, remove them first.
- 7Clean hub and prepare new rotorClean the hub face thoroughly with wire brush to remove rust and debris. Ensure hub surface is clean and flat. Clean new rotor with brake cleaner to remove protective coating. Verify rotor thickness meets manufacturer specifications and has no damage.
- 8Install new rotorSlide new rotor onto hub, ensuring it seats fully against the hub face. If present, install rotor retaining screws to hold rotor in place during assembly. Verify rotor spins freely without excessive runout.
- 9Reinstall caliper bracketClean caliper bracket bolt threads and holes with wire brush. Apply medium-strength thread locker to bracket bolt threads as specified. Install bracket onto axle housing and hand-tighten bolts. Torque bracket bolts to specification in alternating pattern.⚠Thread locker is required on bracket bolts. Failure to use thread locker can result in bolt loosening and complete brake failure.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts201 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 10Install new brake hardware and padsInstall new brake hardware clips onto caliper bracket, ensuring they snap fully into place. Apply thin layer of high-temperature silicone brake grease to pad backing plate contact points (not friction surface). Install new brake pads into bracket with friction material facing the rotor.
- 11Compress caliper pistonUsing C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool, slowly compress the caliper piston fully into the bore. Place old brake pad against piston to protect it during compression. Monitor brake fluid level in master cylinder and remove fluid if it rises too high to prevent overflow.⚠Compressing caliper pistons forces brake fluid back to master cylinder. Do not allow reservoir to overflow.
- 12Service caliper slide pinsRemove caliper slide pins from bracket and inspect for corrosion, wear, or damaged boots. Clean pins thoroughly with brake cleaner. Apply fresh high-temperature silicone brake grease liberally to slide pin surfaces. Reinstall pins with new boots if originals are damaged.
- 13Reinstall caliperPosition caliper over brake pads and onto bracket. Ensure brake hose is not twisted or kinked. Install caliper slide bolts through caliper and into slide pins. Apply silicone brake grease to slide bolt threads. Torque slide bolts to specification.⚠Slide bolts must be lubricated with silicone brake grease as specified or caliper may seize, causing uneven braking.Torque specCaliper Slide Bolts42 Nm (31 lb-ft)
- 14Repeat for opposite sidePerform steps 1 through 13 on the opposite rear wheel. Ensure both sides are completed identically with same parts and torque specifications.
- 15Reinstall wheels and restore brake fluidReinstall rear wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts. Lower vehicle until tires just touch ground but jack stands still support weight. Torque lug nuts to specification in star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Do not overfill.⚠Use only specified DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Other fluids can damage ABS system components.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts203 Nm (150 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all caliper bolts, bracket bolts, and slide bolts are torqued to specification
- Verify brake fluid level is between MIN and MAX marks on reservoir
- Check that no tools or parts have been left in wheel wells or under vehicle
Verification
- With vehicle still in park or neutral and parking brake released, pump brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until pedal becomes firm and holds pressure. Pedal should not sink to floor.
- Check brake fluid level again and top off if needed. Inspect around all brake connections for leaks.
- Start engine and pump brakes again. Pedal should feel firm with engine running.
- Perform a low-speed brake test (5-10 mph) in a safe area to verify proper braking function before normal driving.
- During first 200 miles, avoid hard braking to allow pads to properly bed to rotors. Expect some light noise or reduced performance during break-in period.
- Re-check wheel lug nut torque after first 50-100 miles of driving.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0504Brake Switch A/B CorrelationP0555Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0556Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0571Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit MalfunctionP0572Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit LowP0588Cruise Control/Brake Switch B Circuit HighP0703Torque Converter/Brake Switch B CircuitP0719Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit LowP0723Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit IntermittentP0724Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit HighP1703Brake Switch Out of Self-Test RangeP3604Start-Stop Brake Vacuum Pump Performance
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →