engine
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.2 h
Tools
13
Steps
15
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the exhaust manifold gaskets on both banks of the 5.0L Coyote V8 engine to eliminate exhaust leaks and restore proper sealing.
Warnings
⚠️Exhaust components remain extremely hot for over one hour after engine shutdown. Allow engine to cool completely before starting work to prevent severe burns.
⚠Exhaust manifold studs are prone to breaking on high-mileage vehicles. Apply penetrating oil 24 hours before beginning work and work slowly to minimize breakage risk.
⚠The Coyote engine has tight clearances around exhaust manifolds. Some components must be repositioned or removed for access, particularly on the passenger side.
ℹ️This procedure covers both driver and passenger side manifolds. Driver side is typically more accessible and can be done first for familiarization.
Tools required
Torque wrench (5-80 Nm range)Essential
Socket set (metric, 8mm-19mm)Essential
Ratcheting wrench set (metric)Essential
O2 sensor socket (22mm or 7/8")Essential
Razor blade scraperEssential
Wire brushEssential
Anti-seize compoundEssential
Extension set (3" to 10")Essential
Universal joint for socketsEssential
Shop towelsEssential
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Parts
- Exhaust manifold gasket set (left and right) × 1 — Motorcraft or Fel-Pro MS96041
- Exhaust manifold studs (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Heat shield gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- EGR tube gasket (if equipped) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust flange gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Ensure engine is completely cold to touch (minimum 2 hours after last operation)
- Disconnect negative battery cable and secure away from terminal
- Raise vehicle on level surface and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
- Remove engine cover by pulling upward on snap clips
- Spray all exhaust manifold nuts and studs with penetrating oil, allow to soak at least 30 minutes
- Remove front skid plate or splash shield if equipped for better access from below
Procedure
- 1Remove driver side heat shield and disconnect oxygen sensorsRemove the heat shield bolts securing the driver side exhaust manifold heat shield and set aside. Disconnect the electrical connector for the upstream oxygen sensor by pressing the release tab. Using an O2 sensor socket, remove the upstream oxygen sensor from the manifold. Apply penetrating oil and allow sensor to soak if difficult to remove.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 2Disconnect driver side exhaust at flangeWorking from underneath the vehicle, locate the exhaust pipe flange connection below the driver side manifold. Remove the two or three flange bolts connecting the exhaust pipe to the manifold outlet. Support the exhaust pipe with a jack or wire to prevent strain on downstream hangers. Separate the flange connection and move pipe downward for clearance.
- 3Remove driver side exhaust manifoldWorking from above, remove the eight exhaust manifold nuts in reverse order from center to ends (hot-to-cold pattern). Start with the center nuts and work toward the outer ends on both sides. Once all nuts are removed, carefully work the manifold away from the studs. The manifold may require gentle prying or tapping with a rubber mallet. Lift manifold out of engine bay and set on clean surface.⚠If any studs break or pull out during removal, note their positions for replacement. Do not attempt to drive vehicle with missing studs.Torque specExhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 4Remove passenger side components for accessRemove the passenger side heat shield. Disconnect the passenger side upstream oxygen sensor electrical connector and remove the sensor from the manifold. On passenger side, additional clearance may be needed: disconnect the EGR tube fitting at the manifold if equipped by removing the fitting nut. Move any wiring harnesses or brackets that interfere with manifold removal.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 5Disconnect passenger side exhaust and remove manifoldFrom underneath, remove the passenger side exhaust flange bolts and separate the exhaust pipe from the manifold. Support the pipe to prevent damage. From above, remove the eight exhaust manifold nuts using the same hot-to-cold pattern (center outward). Remove the passenger side manifold from the engine bay. This side typically has tighter clearance and may require tilting or angling during removal.Torque specExhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 6Inspect and clean cylinder head surfacesInspect all exhaust manifold studs for damage. If any studs are broken, damaged, or pull out with the nuts, they must be replaced. Carefully remove all old gasket material from the cylinder head exhaust ports using a razor blade scraper. Do not gouge the aluminum head surfaces. Clean surfaces thoroughly with a wire brush and wipe clean with shop towels. Inspect for cracks or damage to the sealing surfaces.
- 7Replace damaged studs if necessaryIf any studs need replacement, remove the old stud by threading two nuts together on the stud and using the lower nut to turn the stud out. Clean the threads in the cylinder head thoroughly. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads of the new stud (not the end that goes into the head). Thread the new stud into the cylinder head by hand, then torque to specification using the double-nut method.⚠Do not overtighten studs into aluminum cylinder heads. Cross-threading or overtorque will damage the head threads and require thread repair inserts.Torque specExhaust Manifold Studs15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
- 8Clean and inspect exhaust manifoldsRemove all old gasket material from both exhaust manifold mating surfaces using a scraper and wire brush. Inspect manifolds carefully for cracks, especially around the ports and mounting holes. Warpage can be checked by placing the manifold gasket surface on a flat surface and looking for gaps. Minor surface oxidation is normal, but cracks require manifold replacement.
- 9Install driver side exhaust manifold with new gasketPosition the new driver side exhaust manifold gasket on the cylinder head, aligning all port openings and stud holes. Carefully position the exhaust manifold onto the studs, ensuring the gasket remains properly aligned. Install all eight manifold nuts finger-tight first to ensure proper fitment. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the nut threads before installation.
- 10Torque driver side manifold nutsTorque the exhaust manifold nuts to specification in a hot-to-cold pattern. Begin with the center nuts and work outward toward the ends in multiple passes. First pass: torque all nuts to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft). Second pass: torque all nuts to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft). Final pass: torque all nuts to final specification of 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). Verify all nuts are properly torqued.ℹ️The hot-to-cold tightening pattern (center outward) ensures even gasket compression and prevents manifold warping during installation.Torque specExhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 11Install passenger side exhaust manifold with new gasketRepeat the installation process for the passenger side. Position the new gasket on the cylinder head, align the manifold onto the studs, and install all nuts finger-tight with anti-seize applied to threads. If EGR tube was disconnected, do not reconnect yet to allow easier manifold installation.
- 12Torque passenger side manifold nutsTorque the passenger side exhaust manifold nuts using the same three-pass method and hot-to-cold pattern. First pass to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft), second pass to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft), and final pass to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). Double-check all fasteners are properly torqued.Torque specExhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 13Reconnect exhaust pipes and install heat shieldsPosition new exhaust flange gaskets at both manifold outlets. From underneath, raise the exhaust pipes back to the manifold flanges and install the flange bolts. Apply anti-seize to the flange bolt threads and torque to specification. Reconnect any exhaust hangers if they were removed. Install both heat shields with new gaskets if equipped and torque the heat shield bolts to specification.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 14Install oxygen sensors and reconnect componentsApply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the threads of both upstream oxygen sensors (avoid getting anti-seize on the sensor tip). Thread the O2 sensors into the manifolds by hand first, then torque to specification using the O2 sensor socket. Reconnect both O2 sensor electrical connectors. If EGR tube was removed, install new gasket and reconnect the EGR tube fitting, torquing to specification.⚠Do not allow anti-seize compound to contact the oxygen sensor tip as this will contaminate the sensor and cause incorrect readings.
- 15Final inspection and reinstall componentsReinstall any wiring harnesses, brackets, or components that were moved for access. Reinstall the front skid plate or splash shield from underneath. Reinstall the engine cover by aligning and pressing down on the snap clips until seated. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Lower the vehicle from jack stands.
Reassembly
- Ensure all exhaust manifold nuts are torqued in the proper hot-to-cold pattern to prevent warping and ensure even gasket compression
- Verify all electrical connectors are fully seated and locked, particularly oxygen sensors which are critical for engine performance
- Double-check that exhaust pipe flanges are tight and properly sealed to prevent exhaust leaks downstream of the manifolds
- Confirm no tools or shop towels were left in the engine bay before starting the engine
Verification
- Start the engine and allow it to idle. Listen carefully for any exhaust leaks at the manifold-to-head interface and at the exhaust pipe flanges
- With engine running, carefully feel around the manifold perimeter (without touching hot surfaces) for exhaust pulses that indicate leaks
- Allow engine to reach operating temperature and verify no leaks develop as components expand with heat
- Check for proper oxygen sensor operation by verifying no check engine light and smooth engine idle
- After initial warm-up cycle, allow engine to cool and re-torque all manifold nuts to specification (this is optional but recommended for critical applications)
- Road test vehicle and verify normal engine performance with no exhaust noises or power loss
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0013Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1P0014Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Bank 1P0023Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 2P0024Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Bank 2P0078Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)P0079Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)P0080Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 1)P0084Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2)P0105Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO CircuitP0400Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) FlowP0407Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit LowP0470Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
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