5.0L V8 Coyote4WDAUTOMATICgas
4 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Founding sponsor spot is openYour name on every procedure for this vehicle, permanently.Sponsor — $99 →
exhaust

Exhaust Pipe - Rear Section

for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
13
Steps
15
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear exhaust section on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with the 5.0L Coyote V8 engine, including disconnecting flange connections and exhaust hangers.

Warnings

⚠️Allow exhaust system to cool completely before beginning work. Exhaust components can retain heat for over an hour after engine shutdown and cause severe burns.
Exhaust fasteners are prone to corrosion and may break during removal. Apply penetrating oil and allow to soak before attempting removal.
Support the exhaust section before removing final mounting points to prevent it from falling.
ℹ️This procedure assumes the rear section begins aft of the catalytic converters and mid-pipe flange connection.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (10-70 Nm range)Essential
15mm socket and ratchetEssential
13mm socket and ratchetEssential
10mm socket and ratchet
Penetrating oilEssential
Wire brush
Anti-seize compoundEssential
Pry bar or exhaust hanger removal toolEssential
Oxygen sensor socket (22mm)
Safety glassesEssential
Work glovesEssential

Parts

  • Rear exhaust section assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or aftermarket equivalent
  • Exhaust flange gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
  • Rubber exhaust hangers × 2 — Replace if damaged or cracked

Preparation

  1. Ensure engine and exhaust system are completely cold to the touch
  2. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
  3. Place wheel chocks on front wheels
  4. Raise rear of vehicle using floor jack and support securely on jack stands at frame mounting points
  5. Spray all exhaust flange bolts, hanger bolts, and heat shield bolts with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15-30 minutes

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove heat shields (if equipped)
    Locate any heat shields covering the rear exhaust section. Using a 10mm socket, remove the heat shield mounting bolts. Set heat shields aside for inspection and potential reuse.
    Torque spec
    Heat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
  2. 2
    Disconnect downstream oxygen sensor (if equipped)
    Locate the downstream oxygen sensor on the rear exhaust section. Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the release tab. If replacing the rear section, use a 22mm oxygen sensor socket to remove the sensor from the exhaust pipe. If reusing, leave sensor installed in old pipe for now.
    Oxygen sensors are fragile. Do not use excessive force or contaminate the sensor tip with oil or anti-seize.
    Torque spec
    O2 Sensor45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Support the rear exhaust section
    Position a floor jack with a block of wood under the rear muffler section to support the weight of the exhaust. Raise jack just enough to take weight off hangers but not to lift the vehicle.
    The exhaust section will become unstable once hangers are disconnected. Maintain proper support at all times.
  4. 4
    Disconnect exhaust hangers
    Locate the rubber exhaust hangers supporting the rear section (typically 2-3 hangers). Use a pry bar or exhaust hanger removal tool to carefully separate the exhaust hanger rod from the rubber isolator. Work the rod out by prying and twisting. If hanger bolts are present, remove them using a 13mm socket.
    Rubber hangers can snap during removal. Wear safety glasses and keep hands clear of potential recoil path.
    Torque spec
    Hanger Bolts25 Nm (19 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Remove flange connection bolts
    Locate the flange connection where the rear exhaust section connects to the mid-pipe (typically near the rear axle). Using a 15mm socket, remove the flange bolts. There are typically 2-3 bolts securing the flange. If bolts are severely corroded, apply additional penetrating oil and use a breaker bar if necessary.
    Corroded flange bolts may break off. If a bolt breaks, the remaining stud will need to be extracted or drilled out.
    Torque spec
    Exhaust Flange Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Separate flange connection
    Once bolts are removed, carefully pry the flange apart using a pry bar. The flange gasket may be stuck. Work the rear exhaust section back and forth while pulling rearward to separate it from the mid-pipe flange.
    ℹ️The old flange gasket should be discarded and replaced with a new gasket during installation.
  7. 7
    Remove rear exhaust section
    With all hangers and flange connections disconnected, lower the floor jack slowly and guide the rear exhaust section out from under the vehicle. Remove rearward to clear the frame and suspension components.
    Rear exhaust section may be heavy. Use proper lifting technique or have an assistant help guide it out.
  8. 8
    Clean flange mating surface
    Use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the mid-pipe flange surface where it will mate to the new rear section. Remove all old gasket material, rust, and debris. The surface should be clean metal for proper sealing.
    ℹ️A clean flange surface is critical to prevent exhaust leaks at the connection point.
  9. 9
    Transfer oxygen sensor (if applicable)
    If reusing the oxygen sensor, remove it from the old exhaust section using a 22mm oxygen sensor socket. Inspect sensor condition. Clean threads on sensor with a wire brush if reusing. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to threads only (avoid sensor tip).
    Never apply anti-seize to the oxygen sensor tip. Contamination will damage the sensor.
    Torque spec
    O2 Sensor45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Install oxygen sensor in new exhaust section
    Thread the oxygen sensor into the new rear exhaust section by hand to avoid cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use the oxygen sensor socket and torque wrench to tighten to specification. Ensure electrical connector is accessible and not pinched.
    Torque spec
    O2 Sensor45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Position new rear exhaust section
    Place new flange gasket onto the mid-pipe flange. Support the new rear exhaust section with the floor jack and wood block. Carefully guide the section into position under the vehicle, aligning the front flange with the mid-pipe flange connection.
    ℹ️Do not fully tighten any fasteners until all connections are started and aligned.
  12. 12
    Install flange bolts
    Insert flange bolts through both flanges and the new gasket. Apply anti-seize compound to bolt threads. Start all bolts by hand, then snug them in a crisscross pattern. Use the torque wrench and 15mm socket to torque flange bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern.
    Torque spec
    Exhaust Flange Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Install exhaust hangers
    Align the exhaust hanger rods with their rubber isolators. Use a pry bar to stretch the rubber isolator and work the rod into position. Ensure all hangers are fully seated. If hanger bolts are used, install and torque to specification.
    Ensure exhaust section hangs evenly and has adequate clearance from frame, suspension, and body components. Adjust hanger positions if necessary.
    Torque spec
    Hanger Bolts25 Nm (19 lb-ft)
  14. 14
    Reconnect oxygen sensor connector
    Locate the oxygen sensor electrical connector. Ensure connector and pins are clean and free of corrosion. Connect the wiring harness to the oxygen sensor, pressing firmly until the connector clicks into place. Secure any wiring clips to prevent contact with hot exhaust components.
    ℹ️Ensure oxygen sensor wiring is routed away from heat sources and moving suspension components.
  15. 15
    Reinstall heat shields
    Position heat shields over the exhaust components. Install heat shield bolts and torque to specification using a 10mm socket and torque wrench. Ensure heat shields do not rattle against exhaust or frame.
    Torque spec
    Heat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Perform a final visual inspection of all connections, ensuring proper clearance between exhaust and frame, suspension, fuel lines, and brake lines
  2. Verify all hangers are properly seated and exhaust section is not twisted or under tension
  3. Lower vehicle from jack stands carefully, ensuring no tools or parts are left underneath

Verification

  • Start engine and allow to idle. Listen for exhaust leaks at the flange connection and around the oxygen sensor. A hissing sound indicates a leak that must be corrected
  • With engine running, carefully inspect flange connection for visible exhaust gases escaping
  • Check for proper exhaust system clearance while someone cycles the steering lock to lock (suspension movement)
  • Use an OBD-II scanner to verify no oxygen sensor codes are present after a short test drive
  • After test drive, recheck all flange bolts and hanger connections for proper torque and security
  • Inspect for any abnormal rattles or contact points between exhaust and chassis during test drive
🔧Stuck on this exhaust pipe - rear section? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Ford within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2012 Ford F-150 repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Ford F-150 — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 50 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →