suspension
Lateral Arm
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
Replace the front lateral arm (upper control arm) on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 4WD with 5.0L V8 engine, including disconnecting the ball joint and control arm mounting bolts.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Ball joint separator tools can release suddenly under pressure. Keep hands and face clear of the tool.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels. Failure to do so will result in premature bushing failure.
ℹ️Alignment will be required after replacing upper control arm. Plan accordingly.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket and ratchetEssential
21mm socket and ratchetEssential
18mm wrenchEssential
Ball joint separator/pickle forkEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Breaker bar
Parts
- Upper control arm (lateral arm) × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
- Castle nut (if not included with arm) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
- Remove front wheel on side being serviced
- Spray penetrating oil on ball joint nut and control arm bolts, allow to soak
Procedure
- 1Support the knuckle assemblyPosition a floor jack under the lower control arm or knuckle to support the suspension assembly. Raise jack just enough to take tension off the upper control arm. This prevents the knuckle from dropping when the ball joint is disconnected.
- 2Remove ball joint cotter pin and castle nutRemove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut using pliers or wire cutters. Using a 21mm socket, remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud. Keep the nut if reusing the control arm.
- 3Separate ball joint from knuckleUse a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork to separate the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Position the tool between the control arm and knuckle, then strike with a hammer or use a screw-type separator to pop the taper loose. The joint should release with a popping sound. If using a pickle fork, note this will likely damage the ball joint boot.⚠Ball joint may release suddenly. Ensure jack is supporting knuckle weight and keep hands clear.
- 4Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front mounting bolt securing the control arm to the frame bracket. Using an 18mm wrench and 21mm socket, remove the front bolt and flag nut. Note the bolt orientation and any alignment shims for reinstallation.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 5Remove rear control arm mounting boltUsing the same tools, remove the rear mounting bolt and flag nut securing the control arm to the frame. The control arm should now be free to remove from the vehicle. Inspect the mounting points for damage or excessive corrosion.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 6Clean mounting surfacesUse a wire brush to clean the frame mounting surfaces and bolt threads. Remove any rust, dirt, or debris. Inspect frame mounting brackets for cracks or damage. Check that flag nuts in frame are secure and not spinning.
- 7Install new control arm looselyPosition the new upper control arm into the frame mounting brackets. Install both front and rear mounting bolts finger tight only. Do not torque at this time. Ensure any alignment shims are reinstalled in their original positions if applicable.⚠Do not fully torque control arm bolts until vehicle weight is on wheels to prevent bushing bind.
- 8Connect ball joint to knuckleAlign the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle. You may need to use the jack to raise or lower the knuckle slightly for alignment. Insert the stud through the knuckle and install the castle nut. Tighten the castle nut to specification using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.Torque specBall Joint Nut110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
- 9Install new cotter pinInstall a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud. If the castle nut slots don't align with the stud hole, tighten the nut further (never loosen). Bend the cotter pin ends to secure. Remove the floor jack from under the knuckle.
- 10Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and hand tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but vehicle weight is still mostly on jack stands. This loads the suspension to the normal ride height position.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)
- 11Torque control arm bolts with weight on wheelsWith vehicle weight compressing the suspension to ride height, torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. This ensures the bushings are in their neutral position and prevents premature wear. Use an 18mm wrench to hold the nut while torquing the bolt head.⚠This step is critical. Torquing with suspension hanging will cause bushing failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 12Final torque wheel lug nutsFully lower the vehicle to the ground and remove jack stands. Using a torque wrench, torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Perform a final visual inspection of all connections.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- All fasteners have been torqued to specification during the procedure
- Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent
- Confirm no tools or parts were left in wheel well area
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises from front suspension
- Check that steering feels normal with no binding or looseness
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible
- After 50-100 miles, recheck control arm bolt torque and wheel lug nut torque
- Visually inspect ball joint boot for damage if pickle fork was used