drivetrain
Locking Hub - Auto
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
12
Replace the automatic locking hub assembly on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 4WD with 5.0L Coyote engine to restore four-wheel drive engagement capability.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
⚠The axle nut is torqued to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft). Ensure the vehicle is in park with parking brake applied and transmission in gear before loosening.
⚠Front differential fluid will drain when hub is removed. Have drain pan ready and plan to refill.
ℹ️Mark the orientation of the hub assembly before removal to ensure correct reinstallation.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (20-300 Nm range)Essential
1/2 inch drive ratchet and socket setEssential
Pry bar or flathead screwdriver
Hammer (brass or plastic)
Wire brush
Breaker barEssential
Drain panEssential
Safety glassesEssential
Work gloves
Axle nut socket (36mm)Essential
New cotter pin or staking toolEssential
Parts
- Automatic locking hub assembly × 1 — Use OEM Ford IWE (Integrated Wheel End) hub
- Hub mounting bolts (if corroded) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Axle nut cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Front differential gear oil × 1 — 75W-90 GL-5
- Brake cleaner × 1 — Generic
- Anti-seize compound × 1 — Generic
Fluids
- 75W-90 GL-5 Gear Oil — 1.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
- Remove front wheel completely
- Place drain pan under the hub area to catch gear oil
Procedure
- 1Remove axle nutWith vehicle still in park and parking brake applied, remove the cotter pin from the axle nut using pliers or side cutters. Using a 36mm socket and breaker bar, remove the axle nut from the CV axle shaft. This nut is torqued to 250 Nm and will require significant force to loosen.
- 2Disconnect vacuum lineLocate the vacuum line connected to the IWE (Integrated Wheel End) on the hub assembly. This is typically a small diameter plastic line with a quick-disconnect fitting. Press the release tabs and carefully disconnect the vacuum line from the hub. Note the routing for reinstallation.
- 3Remove hub mounting boltsLocate the hub assembly mounting bolts around the perimeter of the hub (typically 6 bolts). Use a socket and ratchet to remove all mounting bolts. Keep bolts organized as they may be reused if not corroded. The hub may be tight against the knuckle due to corrosion.
- 4Separate hub from CV axleCarefully pull the hub assembly straight off the CV axle shaft and away from the steering knuckle. You may need to use a soft-faced hammer to tap the hub from behind or use a pry bar with gentle pressure. Be careful not to damage the CV axle threads or splines. Front differential fluid will begin to drain at this point.⚠Gear oil will drain from the differential once the hub is removed. Ensure drain pan is positioned correctly.
- 5Clean mounting surfacesUse a wire brush to thoroughly clean the CV axle shaft splines, the hub mounting surface on the steering knuckle, and the bolt holes. Remove all corrosion, dirt, and old gear oil. Spray with brake cleaner and wipe clean. Inspect the CV axle boot for tears or damage while accessible.
- 6Prepare new hub assemblyRemove the new automatic locking hub from packaging. Verify it matches the old unit and that the vacuum port is in the correct position. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the CV axle splines (avoid getting any inside the hub mechanism). Do not grease the hub-to-knuckle mating surface.
- 7Install new hub assemblyCarefully align the hub assembly with the CV axle splines and steering knuckle. Slide the hub onto the CV axle shaft, ensuring the splines engage properly and the hub seats flush against the knuckle. Rotate the hub slightly if needed to align the bolt holes with the knuckle.
- 8Install and torque mounting boltsInstall all hub mounting bolts and hand-tighten in a star pattern to ensure even seating. Using a torque wrench, tighten the mounting bolts to 34 Nm (25 lb-ft) in a star pattern to prevent warping or misalignment of the hub assembly.Torque specMounting Bolts34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
- 9Reconnect vacuum lineReconnect the IWE vacuum line to the hub assembly, ensuring it clicks securely into place. Gently tug on the line to verify it is properly seated. Check the vacuum line routing to ensure it will not contact the tire or suspension components during operation.
- 10Install and torque axle nutThread the axle nut onto the CV axle shaft by hand. Using a torque wrench and 36mm socket, torque the axle nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft). Install a new cotter pin through the hole in the axle shaft and bend the ends to secure, or stake the nut per manufacturer specification if using a stake-type nut.⚠Never reuse a cotter pin. Always use a new cotter pin or properly stake the nut.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 11Refill front differentialLocate the front differential fill plug (typically on the front or side of the differential housing). Remove the fill plug and add 1.5 quarts of 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil until it begins to seep from the fill hole. Reinstall and tighten the fill plug. Wipe away any spilled fluid.
- 12Reinstall wheelMount the wheel back onto the hub and hand-tighten all lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (still supported by jack). Torque the lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all mounting bolts are torqued to specification in a star pattern
- Verify axle nut is properly secured with new cotter pin or staked
- Confirm vacuum line is securely connected and routed properly
- Check front differential fluid level is at proper fill line
Verification
- Start the engine and shift the transfer case into 4WD mode. Listen for the IWE vacuum system engaging (slight hissing sound is normal)
- Drive the vehicle in 4WD at low speed in a safe area and verify proper engagement without grinding or clicking noises
- Check for any gear oil leaks around the new hub assembly after test drive
- Return transfer case to 2WD and verify the hub disengages properly (no binding during turns)
- Recheck lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving