engine
Connecting Rod Bearings
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Expert
Time
19.5 h
Tools
16
Steps
15
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the removal, inspection, and replacement of the connecting rod bearings on the 5.0L Coyote V8 engine, requiring complete engine disassembly from the vehicle.
Warnings
⚠️This is an advanced rebuild procedure requiring precise measurements and torque specifications. Improper bearing installation or torque can result in catastrophic engine failure.
⚠️Engine hoist must be rated for at least 1000 lbs. Secure all lifting chains properly to prevent engine from falling.
⚠Connecting rod bolts are torque-to-yield and MUST be replaced. Reusing old bolts will result in rod failure.
⚠All bearing surfaces must be spotlessly clean and free of oil during measurement. Contamination will give false clearance readings.
ℹ️Crankshaft journal diameter must be measured to determine correct bearing size. Standard bearings only fit unworn crankshafts.
Tools required
Torque angle gaugeEssential
Micrometer set (0.001" precision)Essential
Plastigage kitEssential
Engine hoist with levelerEssential
Engine standEssential
Complete metric socket set (8mm-24mm)Essential
Torque wrench (5-150 lb-ft range)Essential
Piston ring compressorEssential
Crankshaft turning tool or large breaker barEssential
Bearing installation toolsEssential
Oil filter wrench
Drain pan (8+ quart capacity)Essential
Magnetic pickup tool
Gasket scraper (plastic)Essential
Pry bar set
Dial bore gaugeEssential
Parts
- Connecting rod bearing set (standard or appropriate oversize) × 1 — Measure crankshaft journals before ordering
- Oil pan gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Front cover gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Timing chain cover seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Valve cover gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Oil filter × 1 — Motorcraft FL-820-S or equivalent
- Connecting rod bolts × 16 — Use OEM specification - replace mandatory
- Head gaskets (if heads removed) × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Intake manifold gaskets × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust manifold gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- RTV silicone sealant (Motorcraft TA-357) × 2 — Use OEM specification
Fluids
- Motorcraft 5W-20 Synthetic Blend — 7.5 qt
- Motorcraft Orange Coolant — 16 qt
Preparation
- Position vehicle on level ground with parking brake engaged and wheel chocks installed
- Disconnect negative battery cable and remove engine cover
- Drain engine oil completely and remove oil filter
- Drain cooling system into appropriate container
- Remove radiator, cooling fans, and upper/lower radiator hoses
- Label and disconnect all electrical connectors, vacuum lines, and fuel lines from engine
- Relieve fuel system pressure before disconnecting fuel lines
- Remove air intake system, throttle body, and intake manifold
- Remove serpentine belt and all accessory brackets (alternator, A/C compressor, power steering)
- Disconnect exhaust system at manifolds
- Support transmission with jack and remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts
- Attach engine hoist with chains to factory lifting points on cylinder heads
- Remove engine mount bolts and carefully lift engine from vehicle
- Mount engine securely on engine stand and position for access to oil pan
Procedure
- 1Remove oil pan and windage trayRemove all oil pan bolts in reverse of tightening sequence. Carefully separate oil pan from engine block using plastic gasket scraper - do not pry on sealing surfaces. Remove windage tray mounting bolts and remove tray. Inspect oil pan for metal debris indicating bearing failure.
- 2Remove oil pump and pickup tubeRemove oil pump mounting bolts and carefully withdraw oil pump assembly. Remove oil pump pickup tube mounting bolts. Inspect pump pickup screen for debris. Set aside pump components for reinstallation.
- 3Identify and mark connecting rodsRotate crankshaft to position cylinder 1 at bottom dead center. Each connecting rod and cap should have factory markings (1-8). If markings are unclear, use permanent marker to clearly mark each rod and cap with cylinder number and orientation (forward direction). Mark caps to ensure they are reinstalled on the same rod in the same orientation.
- 4Remove connecting rod caps and pistonsStarting with cylinder 1, remove both connecting rod bolts and carefully lift off rod cap with bearing shell. Push piston and rod assembly upward out of cylinder bore - guide carefully to avoid scratching cylinder wall. Remove upper bearing shell from rod. Place rod cap with lower bearing back onto rod and loosely install old bolts to keep matched. Repeat for all 8 cylinders, keeping all components organized by cylinder number.⚠Do not allow connecting rods to strike crankshaft journals during removal. Cover rod bolts with rubber hose if necessary to prevent damage.
- 5Inspect crankshaft journalsClean all 8 connecting rod journals with lint-free cloth and solvent. Inspect each journal for scoring, discoloration, or damage. Use micrometer to measure diameter of each rod journal in at least 3 places (top, middle, bottom) and check for out-of-round condition. Journal diameter should be 2.0870-2.0878 inches. Record all measurements to determine if crankshaft requires grinding and what bearing size is needed (standard, 0.010", 0.020", etc.).ℹ️If any journal is more than 0.001" out-of-round or under minimum specification, crankshaft must be reground or replaced.
- 6Clean and inspect connecting rodsThoroughly clean all connecting rods and caps with solvent. Inspect rod big end bores for scoring or damage. Use dial bore gauge to measure big end bore diameter with cap torqued to specification using NEW bolts. Inspect rod small end bushings for wear. Check connecting rods for twist or bend using specialized alignment fixture if available. Replace any damaged connecting rods.⚠Small end bushings in Coyote rods are not serviceable. If worn, entire rod must be replaced.
- 7Select and prepare new bearingsBased on crankshaft measurements, select correct bearing size. Bearings must be specific to 5.0L Coyote engine. Clean bearing installation surfaces on connecting rods and caps with clean lint-free cloth - they must be completely free of oil. Inspect new bearing shells for damage and ensure oil holes align properly with rod oil passages.
- 8Check bearing clearance with PlastigageInstall upper bearing shell (with oil hole) into connecting rod, ensuring tang engages slot. Install lower bearing shell into rod cap. Place strip of Plastigage lengthwise on crankshaft journal. Install rod cap with bearings onto crankshaft journal in correct orientation. Install NEW connecting rod bolts and torque using the three-step procedure: Step 1 to 18 lb-ft, Step 2 to 33 lb-ft, then Step 3 rotate additional 90 degrees. Do NOT rotate crankshaft with Plastigage installed. Remove cap and measure crushed Plastigage width using package scale. Clearance should be 0.0011-0.0024 inches. Repeat for all 8 rod journals.⚠Bearings must be completely dry during Plastigage measurement. Any oil will cause false readings.ℹ️If clearance is too tight, verify correct bearing size. If too loose, undersize bearings may be needed.Torque specConnecting Rod Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft) + 90°
- 9Install connecting rod bearingsOnce bearing clearances are verified acceptable, remove all Plastigage residue completely. Lubricate crankshaft journals and new bearing shells thoroughly with clean engine assembly lube or fresh engine oil. Install upper bearing shell into connecting rod with tang engaged in slot. Position piston ring gaps per manufacturer specification (typically staggered 120 degrees apart). Compress piston rings using ring compressor.ℹ️Ring end gaps should be staggered so no two rings have gaps aligned.
- 10Install piston and rod assembliesRotate crankshaft to position journal for cylinder 1 at bottom dead center. Guide piston and rod assembly into cylinder 1 bore with piston facing forward (mark on piston crown faces front of engine). Tap piston gently into bore using wooden or plastic handle while guiding rod onto journal. Install lower bearing shell into rod cap with tang engaged. Lubricate lower bearing thoroughly. Install rod cap in correct orientation matching marks made earlier.⚠Ensure connecting rod does not scratch cylinder wall during installation. Use rod bolt protectors if needed.
- 11Torque connecting rod boltsInstall NEW connecting rod bolts hand-tight. Using torque wrench and angle gauge, torque bolts in three-step sequence: First torque to 18 lb-ft, then torque to 33 lb-ft, then rotate each bolt an additional 90 degrees using angle gauge. Verify rod side clearance on journal is 0.0051-0.0119 inches using feeler gauge. Repeat installation process for remaining 7 cylinders. After all rods are installed, rotate crankshaft by hand through 2 complete rotations to verify no binding.⚠️Connecting rod bolts are torque-to-yield design and must be replaced. Never reuse old bolts.Torque specConnecting Rod Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft) + 90°
- 12Reinstall oil pump and pickupInstall new O-ring on oil pump pickup tube. Install pickup tube and torque mounting bolts to specification. Prime oil pump by packing with petroleum jelly. Install oil pump assembly and torque mounting bolts to specification. Verify pump rotates freely by turning crankshaft.Torque specMounting Bolts34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
- 13Install oil panClean all gasket surfaces thoroughly on engine block and oil pan using plastic scraper. Apply thin bead of RTV sealant (Motorcraft TA-357) at front cover-to-block and rear seal retainer-to-block joints. Install new oil pan gasket. Position oil pan and install all bolts hand-tight. Torque oil pan bolts to specification in sequence starting at center and working outward. Allow RTV to cure for minimum 30 minutes before adding oil.Torque specGasket Bolts25 Nm (19 lb-ft)
- 14Reinstall engine and accessoriesRemove engine from stand and attach to engine hoist. Carefully lower engine into vehicle, aligning with transmission bellhousing and engine mounts. Install and torque engine mount bolts and bellhousing bolts to specification. Reinstall all accessories, brackets, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and cooling system components in reverse order of removal. Reconnect all electrical connectors, vacuum lines, and fuel system. Install new oil filter and fill engine with 7.5 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-20 oil. Refill cooling system with 16 quarts of Motorcraft Orange coolant.ℹ️Double-check all electrical connections and ensure no components were left disconnected.
- 15Initial startup and break-inReconnect battery. Prime oil system by cranking engine with fuel pump fuse removed and spark plugs removed until oil pressure gauge shows pressure (typically 5-10 seconds). Reinstall spark plugs and fuel pump fuse. Start engine and immediately verify oil pressure. Allow engine to idle and monitor for leaks, unusual noises, or low oil pressure. Engine should be brought up to operating temperature slowly. Monitor oil pressure during initial 30-minute break-in period. Avoid high RPM or load for first 500 miles.⚠️If oil pressure light remains on or pressure gauge shows low pressure, immediately shut down engine and investigate. Running engine without oil pressure will destroy new bearings instantly.⚠Monitor engine closely for first several minutes of operation. Any knocking or unusual noise may indicate bearing installation problem.
Reassembly
- All gaskets and seals must be replaced - never reuse old gaskets
- Follow all torque specifications precisely using calibrated torque wrench
- Connecting rod bolts must be torqued in three-step sequence with final angle rotation
- Apply thread locker only where specified by manufacturer
- Ensure all wiring harnesses are routed properly and secured with factory clips
- Verify serpentine belt is routed correctly and properly tensioned
Verification
- Engine should start readily and maintain oil pressure above 20 PSI at idle when warm
- No oil leaks visible from oil pan, front cover, or valve covers after 30-minute run period
- Engine runs smoothly with no knocking, ticking, or abnormal noises
- Verify coolant level is stable and no leaks present after reaching operating temperature
- Check oil level after initial run and top off if necessary - level may appear high initially due to oil coating internal components
- Monitor oil pressure during test drive under various loads - should increase with RPM
- Perform oil and filter change after first 500 miles of break-in period