suspension
Strut Mount - Front
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.2 h
Tools
14
Steps
19
Replace the front strut mounts (upper strut bearing plates) on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 4WD with 5.0L V8 engine. This procedure involves removing the strut assembly from the vehicle to access and replace the upper mount.
Warnings
⚠️This is a SAFETY-CRITICAL suspension repair. Improper installation can result in loss of vehicle control, serious injury, or death. If you are uncertain about any step, seek professional assistance.
⚠️Coil springs store tremendous energy. NEVER attempt to disassemble a strut without proper spring compressors. Flying springs can cause fatal injuries.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands on stable, level ground.
⚠This procedure requires a front-end alignment afterward. Budget for professional alignment service or the vehicle will have abnormal tire wear and handling issues.
⚠Suspension fasteners may be heavily corroded, especially on 4WD models. Apply penetrating oil 24 hours before starting if possible.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (minimum 2 ton capacity)Essential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Wrench set (metric)Essential
Spring compressor set (strut coil spring)Essential
Ball joint separator or pickle fork
Pry bar
Allen key setEssential
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Marking pen or paint
Parts
- Front strut mount assembly (left) × 1 — Motorcraft ST-1035 or equivalent
- Front strut mount assembly (right) × 1 — Motorcraft ST-1035 or equivalent
- Strut tower mounting nuts (if corroded) × 6 — M12 prevailing torque nuts
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts (if corroded) × 4 — OEM replacement hardware
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, stable surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-approved lift points
- Install jack stands under frame rails behind lower control arms - ensure vehicle is stable and secure
- Remove front wheels completely
- Spray penetrating oil on strut tower nuts, strut-to-knuckle bolts, and sway bar link nuts - allow to soak while working
- Mark the orientation of strut-to-knuckle bolt positions with paint pen for camber reference (helps minimize alignment change)
Procedure
- 1Disconnect sway bar link from strutLocate the sway bar link connection at the lower part of the strut assembly. Hold the internal shaft with an Allen key to prevent spinning, then remove the upper sway bar link nut using appropriate wrench. Disconnect the link from the strut. If the ball stud spins, use locking pliers on the stud or cut the nut off with an angle grinder.Torque specSway Bar Link76 Nm (56 lb-ft)
- 2Disconnect brake line bracket from strutLocate the brake line routing bracket attached to the strut body. Remove the bracket bolt or clip securing the brake line to the strut. Carefully position the brake line away from the strut to provide clearance for removal. Do not stress or kink the brake line.
- 3Remove ABS sensor wire bracket (if equipped)If your vehicle has ABS (standard on most F-150s), disconnect any wire routing clips or brackets attached to the strut assembly. Ensure the ABS sensor wire has adequate slack and will not be damaged during strut removal.
- 4Support the lower control armPosition a floor jack under the lower control arm, as close to the ball joint as safely possible. Raise the jack just enough to slightly compress the suspension and take load off the strut. This prevents the suspension from dropping suddenly when the strut is disconnected. Keep jack pressure minimal - just enough for support.
- 5Remove strut-to-knuckle boltsLocate the two large bolts connecting the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle. These are on the lower portion of the strut body. Remove both bolts completely. You may need to use a breaker bar as these are torqued to 153 Nm. Note the position and orientation of any cam adjusters if present. The knuckle may remain attached or separate - support it if needed.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts153 Nm (113 lb-ft)
- 6Access upper strut tower mounting nutsOpen the hood and locate the strut tower on the inner fender well. You will see three nuts on top of the strut mount assembly protruding through the tower. Clean debris from around the nuts. On the F-150, these are accessible without removing inner fender components.
- 7Remove strut tower mounting nuts and extract strutWhile supporting the strut from below (use your hand or have an assistant hold it), remove all three upper strut tower mounting nuts. Once all three nuts are removed, carefully lower and extract the entire strut assembly from the wheel well. The strut will separate from the tower and pull down through the lower control arm area. Maneuver carefully to avoid damaging brake lines or ABS wires.⚠The strut assembly is heavy (approximately 30-40 lbs). Support it adequately to prevent it from falling and causing injury or damage.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 8Install spring compressors on strut assemblyPlace the strut assembly on a sturdy workbench. Install spring compressors on opposite sides of the coil spring (180 degrees apart). Tighten the compressors EVENLY and GRADUALLY, alternating between them every few turns. Continue compressing until the spring is no longer under tension against the upper mount - you should see visible gap between spring and mount plate. Verify the spring is secure in the compressor clamps before proceeding.⚠️Compress the spring evenly to prevent it from slipping out of the compressor. An uncontrolled release can cause catastrophic injury. If the compressor feels unstable or the spring shifts, stop immediately and reposition.
- 9Remove strut shaft nut and upper mountAt the top center of the strut, locate the strut shaft nut. Hold the strut shaft from rotating using an Allen key or appropriate tool inserted into the shaft end. Remove the upper nut completely. Carefully remove the upper mount assembly, bearing plate, and upper spring isolator. Note the order and orientation of all components for reassembly. Inspect the bearing for smooth rotation - it should turn freely without binding.
- 10Install new strut mount and reassemblePlace the new upper strut mount assembly onto the strut shaft along with bearing plate and upper spring isolator in the correct order and orientation (match the old assembly arrangement). Ensure the spring seat properly locates into the mount. Thread the strut shaft nut onto the shaft and tighten while holding the shaft with Allen key. Torque the center nut to manufacturer specification (typically 50-70 Nm - verify in service manual as this specific value is not in the provided database). Ensure the bearing rotates freely after installation.
- 11Release spring compressorsVery slowly and evenly release the spring compressors, alternating between them. Ensure the spring seats properly into both the upper mount and lower spring seat on the strut body. Continue until all tension is released and the spring is fully seated. Remove the compressor tools completely.⚠️Release spring tension gradually and evenly. Verify the spring is properly seated in both upper and lower perches before fully releasing compression.
- 12Install strut assembly into vehicleGuide the strut assembly back into position through the lower control arm area and up to the strut tower. Align the three upper mounting studs with the holes in the strut tower. Install all three upper strut tower nuts and hand-tighten them. Ensure the strut shaft does not rotate - the mount should be oriented correctly. Align the lower strut body with the steering knuckle.
- 13Install strut-to-knuckle boltsAlign the strut to the steering knuckle, matching the marks made during disassembly if possible. Insert both strut-to-knuckle bolts and install nuts. Do not fully torque yet - just snug them enough to hold position. This allows for final alignment adjustment.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts153 Nm (113 lb-ft)
- 14Torque upper strut tower nutsUsing a torque wrench, tighten the three upper strut tower nuts to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft) in a star pattern to ensure even loading. Verify all three nuts are properly torqued.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 15Torque strut-to-knuckle boltsTorque both strut-to-knuckle bolts to 153 Nm (113 lb-ft). These are critical fasteners - ensure your torque wrench is properly calibrated and you achieve the full specification.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts153 Nm (113 lb-ft)
- 16Reconnect sway bar linkReconnect the sway bar link to the strut mounting point. Hold the ball stud shaft with an Allen key to prevent rotation, then install and torque the nut to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).Torque specSway Bar Link76 Nm (56 lb-ft)
- 17Reattach brake line and ABS sensor bracketsReinstall all brake line routing brackets and ABS sensor wire clips to the strut assembly. Ensure no wires or lines are pinched, kinked, or under tension. Verify routing matches the original configuration.
- 18Repeat for opposite sidePerform steps 1-17 for the opposite side front strut mount. Both sides should be replaced together to maintain balanced suspension characteristics and vehicle handling.
- 19Install wheels and lower vehicleReinstall both front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Carefully remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. Once the vehicle weight is on the wheels, torque the lug nuts to 169 Nm (125 lb-ft) in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- All torque specifications are CRITICAL and must be followed exactly - suspension fastener failure can result in loss of vehicle control
- The strut-to-knuckle bolts should be torqued with the suspension at normal ride height or compressed, not hanging freely
- Wheel lug nuts must be torqued in a star pattern to ensure even wheel seating and prevent warping
Verification
- With vehicle on ground, bounce each front corner firmly several times - the suspension should rebound smoothly without noise, binding, or excessive bouncing
- Turn steering wheel fully lock-to-lock while stationary - listen for any clicking, popping, or grinding from the strut mounts (should be silent)
- Test drive at low speed in a safe area - steering should be responsive with no unusual noises, vibrations, or pulling
- CRITICAL: Schedule a professional front-end alignment within 24 hours. The strut-to-knuckle connection affects camber and the vehicle WILL have incorrect alignment after this repair
- After alignment, verify tire wear patterns normalize over the next 500-1000 miles
- Re-check all fastener torques after 50-100 miles of driving, especially strut tower nuts and strut-to-knuckle bolts