2012 FORD F-150

5.0L V8 Coyote4WDAUTOMATICgas
4 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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steering

Tie Rod End - Outer

for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
13

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 Coyote engine, including proper measurement for alignment reference.

Warnings

Vehicle alignment will be affected by this repair. Professional alignment is required after completion.
The tie rod end separator tool can damage the tie rod end boot. This is acceptable since the part is being replaced.
ℹ️Work on one side at a time to use the opposite side as a reference if needed.

Tools required

Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 Nm range)Essential
21mm socket (wheel lug nuts)Essential
Tie rod end separator tool or pickle forkEssential
18mm wrench (tie rod end nut)Essential
Adjustable wrench or 22mm wrench (tie rod lock nut)Essential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Measuring tape or thread counting toolEssential
Needle nose pliers (cotter pin removal)Essential
Hammer
White paint marker or masking tapeEssential

Parts

  • Outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
  • Cotter pin × 1 — 2.5mm diameter, use OEM specification
  • Anti-seize compound × 1 — Use high-temperature rated

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
  3. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands placed on frame rails
  4. Remove wheel and tire assembly completely
  5. Spray tie rod end castle nut, lock nut, and threads with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes

Procedure

  1. 1
    Mark tie rod position for alignment reference
    Before loosening any components, use white paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end relative to the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of exposed threads between the lock nut and outer tie rod end. Alternatively, measure the exact distance from the lock nut face to the outer tie rod end body. This reference will help maintain approximate alignment during reassembly.
  2. 2
    Remove cotter pin from tie rod end castle nut
    Using needle nose pliers, straighten the cotter pin legs and pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut and tie rod stud. Discard the old cotter pin as it cannot be reused. If the cotter pin is severely corroded, it may need to be cut or drilled out.
  3. 3
    Loosen tie rod end castle nut
    Using an 18mm wrench or socket, loosen the castle nut on the outer tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle. Loosen the nut until it is flush with the end of the stud but do not remove it completely yet. This protects the threads during separation and prevents the tie rod from suddenly releasing.
  4. 4
    Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
    Position the tie rod end separator tool (or pickle fork) between the steering knuckle and tie rod end. Strike the tool with a hammer to drive it into the taper, or use the screw-type separator to apply pressure. Continue until the tie rod end stud pops free from the knuckle taper. Once separated, remove the castle nut completely and lower the tie rod end away from the knuckle.
    Keep hands and fingers clear when using striking tools. The tie rod end may release suddenly under tension.
  5. 5
    Loosen tie rod lock nut
    Locate the lock nut (jam nut) that secures the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod. This is typically located where the outer tie rod threads onto the inner tie rod shaft. Using an adjustable wrench or 22mm wrench, loosen the lock nut but do not remove it completely. It will slide along the tie rod as you unthread the outer end.
  6. 6
    Remove outer tie rod end
    While holding the inner tie rod steady with one wrench to prevent it from spinning, thread the outer tie rod end counterclockwise off the inner tie rod. Count the number of turns required to remove it completely. This count provides a secondary reference for installation. Remove the lock nut from the tie rod assembly.
  7. 7
    Clean and inspect inner tie rod threads
    Using a wire brush, clean the threads on the inner tie rod end where the outer tie rod attaches. Inspect threads for damage, cross-threading, or corrosion. Check the inner tie rod boot for tears or damage. If the boot is damaged or the inner tie rod shows excessive play, it should also be replaced.
  8. 8
    Prepare and install new outer tie rod end
    Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads. Thread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod first (it will be tightened later). Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod clockwise by hand. Use your reference marks or thread count to position it approximately where the old one was located. It should be within 2-3 turns of the original position.
  9. 9
    Install tie rod end to steering knuckle
    Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle taper hole. Ensure the stud is fully seated into the taper. Thread the new castle nut onto the stud by hand as far as possible, then tighten to specification using a torque wrench.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Install new cotter pin
    Align the castle nut slots with the hole in the tie rod stud. If the slots do not align with the hole, tighten the nut slightly (no more than 1/6 turn) until alignment is achieved. Never loosen the nut to align. Insert a new cotter pin through the stud hole and castle nut, then bend the legs around the nut to secure it in place.
    Never loosen a torqued castle nut to align cotter pin holes. Only tighten further if needed.
  11. 11
    Tighten tie rod lock nut
    Hold the outer tie rod end body firmly with one wrench to prevent it from turning. Using a torque wrench and appropriate socket on the lock nut, tighten the lock nut to specification. This locks the outer tie rod end position on the inner tie rod.
    ℹ️This torque value should be applied AFTER alignment. If vehicle will be driven to alignment shop, only snug the lock nut finger-tight plus 1/4 turn, then have it torqued after alignment.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod Lock Nut85 Nm (63 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheel and tire
    Position the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to pull the wheel evenly onto the hub, then torque to specification using a torque wrench in the same star pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Lower vehicle and perform final checks
    Carefully lower the vehicle from jack stands to the ground. With the vehicle weight on the suspension, perform a final torque check on the wheel lug nuts using the star pattern. Rock the vehicle side to side gently to settle the suspension.

Reassembly

  1. If the tie rod lock nut was only snugged for transport to alignment, remind customer/technician it must be torqued to 85 Nm (63 lb-ft) AFTER alignment is completed
  2. Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify steering feel and listen for any unusual noises before highway driving
  3. Inspect the work area for any dropped tools or parts before returning vehicle to service

Verification

  • Verify cotter pin is properly installed and legs are bent to prevent removal
  • Confirm no play exists in the outer tie rod end by grasping the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock positions and attempting to move it - there should be no looseness
  • Check that steering operates smoothly through full left and right lock with no binding
  • Schedule professional wheel alignment as soon as possible - vehicle should not be driven extensively until alignment is performed
  • After alignment, verify tie rod lock nut has been torqued to specification

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