This procedure covers the removal and replacement of both inner and outer tie rods on the 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 4WD, requiring a professional wheel alignment upon completion.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod - driver side × 1 — Motorcraft MEOE-239 or equivalent
• Inner tie rod - passenger side × 1 — Motorcraft MEOE-239 or equivalent
• Outer tie rod end - driver side × 1 — Motorcraft MEOE-238 or equivalent
• Outer tie rod end - passenger side × 1 — Motorcraft MEOE-238 or equivalent
• Cotter pins × 4 — Use OEM specification
• Steering rack boot clamps (if damaged) × 4 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
3. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
4. Remove both front wheels completely
5. Spray all tie rod threads, castle nuts, and jam nuts with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15-20 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark tie rod positions for reference
   Before loosening anything, measure and mark the exact position of each outer tie rod on its inner tie rod threads. Count the visible threads or measure from the jam nut to the outer tie rod body. Take photos from multiple angles. This preserves your approximate toe setting for safe driving to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Remove outer tie rod end cotter pins and castle nuts
   Using pliers, straighten and remove the cotter pins from both outer tie rod end castle nuts at the steering knuckles. Remove the castle nuts completely but leave the tie rod stud in the knuckle taper for now. Do not reuse old cotter pins.
3. 3

   Separate outer tie rod ends from knuckles
   Using a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork, break the taper between the tie rod stud and knuckle. Position the separator properly to avoid damaging the boot. Light hammer taps on the knuckle boss while applying pressure with the separator may help. Once separated, remove the tie rod end completely from the knuckle.
   ⚠Pickle forks will damage tie rod boots. Use a proper ball joint separator if reusing tie rods. Since replacing, pickle fork is acceptable.
4. 4

   Loosen tie rod jam nuts
   Using an 18mm or 19mm wrench (depending on design), loosen but do not remove the jam nuts that lock the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod. These nuts are located between the inner and outer tie rods on the threaded shaft.
5. 5

   Remove outer tie rod ends
   Thread the outer tie rod ends off the inner tie rod shafts by turning counterclockwise. Count the number of turns required to remove each side and record this information. Keep left and right measurements separate as they may differ.
6. 6

   Access inner tie rods
   Loosen the steering rack boot clamps on both sides using pliers or appropriate tool. Slide the rubber boots toward the center of the rack to expose the inner tie rod connections. Inspect boots for damage and replace if torn or cracked.
   ℹ️Mark the orientation of boot clamps before removal to ensure proper reinstallation positioning.
7. 7

   Remove inner tie rods
   Using the inner tie rod removal tool (33mm or adjustable type), unthread the inner tie rods from the steering rack. These are typically very tight. Hold the tool firmly and turn counterclockwise. A breaker bar may be needed for initial breakaway. Remove both inner tie rods completely and inspect rack threads.
   ⚠Do not use pliers or adjustable wrenches directly on the rack threads as this will damage the threads and sealing surfaces.
8. 8

   Clean and prepare rack threads
   Using a wire brush, clean the threads on the steering rack ends where the inner tie rods attach. Remove any corrosion, old thread locker, or debris. Wipe clean with a rag. Inspect threads for damage.
9. 9

   Install new inner tie rods
   Thread the new inner tie rods onto the steering rack by hand until they seat fully. Using the inner tie rod tool, tighten to the manufacturer's specification. Ensure the tie rods are fully seated against the rack shoulder. The lock nut or staking mechanism (depending on design) will secure them.
   ℹ️Some inner tie rods use a staking mechanism rather than a separate lock nut. Verify your specific design and follow accordingly.
10. 10

    Reinstall steering rack boots
    Slide the steering rack boots back over the inner tie rod connections, ensuring they seat properly in their grooves on both the rack housing and inner tie rod body. Install new clamps if originals were damaged, positioning them in the same orientation as marked during removal. Tighten clamps securely but do not overtighten and damage the boots.
11. 11

    Install new outer tie rod ends
    Thread the new outer tie rod ends onto the inner tie rod shafts using the same number of turns you counted during removal (or matching your measurement marks). This should put the tie rods very close to the original position. Do not tighten the jam nuts yet.
12. 12

    Connect outer tie rod ends to knuckles
    Insert the outer tie rod end studs into the steering knuckle tapers. Install the castle nuts and tighten to specification. The castle nut slots must align with the stud hole for cotter pin installation. If necessary, tighten slightly more (never loosen) to achieve alignment of the nearest slot.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install new cotter pins
    Insert new cotter pins through the castle nut slots and tie rod studs. Bend the pins properly to secure - split the ends and bend one up and one down, or bend both ends over the nut as applicable to the design. Ensure the cotter pin cannot back out.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels
    Mount both front wheels and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tires just contact the ground (still supported mostly by jack stands). Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Then fully lower the vehicle and perform a final torque check on all lug nuts.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Do NOT fully tighten the tie rod jam nuts until after the professional alignment is completed
2. After alignment, tighten the tie rod jam nuts to specification (Tie Rod Lock Nut: 85 Nm / 63 lb-ft)
3. Verify all cotter pins are properly installed and secured
4. Recheck wheel lug nut torque after first 50 miles of driving

Verification

• Verify all cotter pins are installed and properly bent
• Confirm no play exists in tie rod ends by attempting to move them by hand with wheels off ground
• Check that steering rack boots are properly seated with no tears or loose clamps
• Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify steering response before driving to alignment shop
• Have a professional four-wheel alignment performed immediately - verify toe, camber, and caster are within specification
• After alignment, verify jam nuts are torqued to 85 Nm (63 lb-ft)
• Recheck all fasteners after 50-100 miles of driving

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