This procedure covers the removal and replacement of wheel studs on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 4WD with the 5.0L Coyote V8 engine, including hub removal and stud press-out/press-in operations.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Wheel stud(s) × 1 — Use OEM Ford specification M12x1.5 stud
• Axle nut (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pin (if applicable) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is still on ground
3. Loosen (but do not remove) the front axle nut while vehicle is on ground - this requires significant force
4. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame contact points
5. Remove wheel and tire assembly completely
6. Spray penetrating oil on axle nut, tie rod end nut, and lower ball joint nut if working on front axle

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and hang the caliper from the frame using a wire or bungee cord - do not let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the rotor by pulling it straight off the hub. If stuck, use two threaded bolts in the rotor's threaded holes to push it off.
2. 2

   Remove axle nut and mark hub position
   Remove the cotter pin (if equipped) or unstake the axle nut. Completely remove the 36mm axle nut using a breaker bar. Use a marker or paint pen to mark the hub flange position relative to the CV axle flange for reassembly alignment.
   ⚠Keep track of any spacers or washers behind the axle nut
3. 3

   Disconnect tie rod end
   Remove the tie rod end castle nut and remove the cotter pin. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Strike the knuckle boss sharply with a dead blow hammer while applying pressure with the separator tool.
4. 4

   Disconnect lower ball joint
   Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut from the lower control arm. Pry the lower control arm down to separate the ball joint stud from the knuckle. You may need to use a pry bar between the control arm and frame to create separation.
5. 5

   Remove hub and bearing assembly
   With the suspension components disconnected, pull the hub and bearing assembly straight off the CV axle shaft. You may need to tap the back of the hub with a dead blow hammer to break it free. Support the CV axle to prevent it from dropping and damaging the boot.
   ⚠Do not damage the CV axle boot or ABS sensor ring during hub removal
6. 6

   Remove damaged wheel stud
   Place the hub face-down on a sturdy work surface with the studs pointing down. Use a wheel stud press tool or heavy-duty 3-jaw puller to press the damaged stud out from the back of the hub. Alternatively, use a large socket slightly larger than the stud head and drive the stud out with a hammer, ensuring even blows to prevent hub damage.
   ⚠Support the hub properly to avoid cracking - never place pressure on the outer bearing race
7. 7

   Clean stud bore
   Use a wire brush to clean the stud bore in the hub completely, removing any rust, debris, or metal shavings. Inspect the bore for cracks or damage. The bore must be clean and smooth for the new stud to seat properly.
8. 8

   Install new wheel stud
   Insert the new wheel stud from the back of the hub, ensuring the serrations align properly. Use the wheel stud press tool or stack washers and a lug nut to pull the stud into position. Tighten the lug nut gradually to draw the stud through until the head is fully seated against the back of the hub with no gap visible.
   ⚠Ensure stud is pulled in straight - any cocking will damage the hub bore
9. 9

   Reinstall hub and bearing assembly
   Align the hub with the CV axle shaft, matching the alignment marks made during disassembly. Slide the hub onto the axle shaft, ensuring the splines engage properly. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the axle threads before installing the axle nut finger-tight.
10. 10

    Reconnect suspension components
    Insert the lower ball joint stud into the knuckle and install the pinch bolt. Reconnect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle and install the castle nut. Install new cotter pins in the tie rod end after torquing to specification.
    Torque spec

    Mounting Bolts34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Install rotor and caliper
    Reinstall the brake rotor onto the hub. Remove the caliper from its hanging position and reinstall it over the rotor, torquing the caliper mounting bolts to specification. Ensure brake pads are properly seated.
12. 12

    Torque axle nut
    With the vehicle still on jack stands, torque the axle nut to specification using a torque wrench. Install a new cotter pin through the axle nut hole, or stake the nut collar into the axle shaft groove according to the nut design. Bend cotter pin ends to secure.
    ⚠Never reuse old cotter pins or unstake and reuse staked nuts
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install wheel and torque lug nuts
    Install the wheel and tire assembly. Thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Lower vehicle completely and perform final torque check in star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Torque all fasteners to specification in the order listed in the procedure
2. Ensure all suspension components are properly reconnected and secured
3. Verify brake caliper mounting bolts are tight and brake operation is normal before road test
4. Double-check wheel lug nut torque after lowering vehicle to ground

Verification

• Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no vibration or unusual noises from the wheel area
• Verify steering operates normally with no binding or unusual play
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving
• Visually inspect the new stud to ensure it remains fully seated with no gap at the hub back
• Check that the axle nut cotter pin or stake is properly secured

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