This procedure covers removal and replacement of the front brake caliper on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost engine, including brake fluid bleeding and system verification.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper assembly × 1 — Use OEM or quality aftermarket equivalent
• Brake fluid copper crush washers × 2 — Two washers per banjo bolt connection
• Brake caliper bolts (if not included with caliper) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove
3. Lift front of vehicle using designated jacking points and secure with jack stands rated for vehicle weight
4. Remove front wheel completely
5. Using turkey baster or fluid evacuator, remove approximately half the brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing caliper piston
6. Place drip pan under work area to catch brake fluid

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Locate the brake hose banjo bolt connection at the back of the caliper. Clean the area around the connection with brake cleaner. Using a flare nut wrench or appropriately sized wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Note the orientation of the copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Immediately plug the brake hose with a rubber cap or wrap with plastic and a rubber band to minimize fluid loss and contamination. Allow fluid to drain into catch pan.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drip from the disconnected line. Keep it away from painted surfaces and your eyes.
2. 2

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back side of the caliper assembly. These bolts secure the caliper to the caliper bracket. Using an 18mm socket or wrench, remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. The caliper may need to be supported as the second bolt is removed. Keep these bolts if reusing; inspect threads for damage.
   ⚠The caliper is heavy and will pivot freely once the first bolt is loosened. Support it to prevent it from falling or stressing the brake hose if not yet disconnected.
3. 3

   Remove old caliper
   Lift the caliper off the brake rotor and bracket. If the caliper was not yet disconnected from the brake hose, support it with a caliper hanger or mechanic's wire from the suspension or frame - never let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the caliper completely from the vehicle. Inspect the caliper bracket, slide pins, and mounting hardware for wear, corrosion, or damage.
4. 4

   Inspect and clean caliper bracket
   With the caliper removed, inspect the caliper bracket and brake rotor. If replacing only the caliper and not the bracket, clean the bracket thoroughly with a wire brush and brake cleaner, paying special attention to the slide pin bores and pad contact surfaces. If the bracket is being replaced, remove the two bracket mounting bolts using a 21mm socket. Clean the rotor surface and hub mounting area.
   ℹ️Caliper bracket bolts require significant torque. Use a breaker bar if necessary for removal. Apply threadlocker to new bracket bolts during installation.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Prepare new caliper
   Remove the new caliper from packaging and verify it matches the old unit. Check that bleeder screw is present and moves freely (do not remove). If the caliper piston is not fully retracted, use a C-clamp or caliper piston tool to compress it fully into the bore - this is essential for installation over the brake pads. Verify slide pins move smoothly and have adequate lubrication with brake-specific silicone grease.
   ⚠Use only brake-specific silicone grease on slide pins. Petroleum-based lubricants will damage rubber components.
6. 6

   Install new caliper on bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align the caliper with the bracket mounting holes. The caliper should slide over the brake pads smoothly. If resistance is encountered, verify the piston is fully compressed. Insert both caliper mounting bolts and thread them by hand to prevent cross-threading. Once both bolts are started, tighten them alternately and evenly using a torque wrench to the specified torque value of 101 Nm (75 lb-ft).
7. 7

   Connect brake hose with new washers
   Remove the protective cap or plug from the brake hose. Install a NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo bolt, then insert the banjo fitting into the caliper port, followed by a second NEW copper washer. Thread the banjo bolt by hand, ensuring the hose is not twisted or kinked. Using a torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). Verify the brake hose has proper clearance and will not contact the wheel or suspension components during full steering travel.
   ⚠️Never reuse copper crush washers. Reused washers will not seal properly and can cause brake fluid leakage and brake failure.
   ⚠Ensure brake hose is not twisted or kinked. Check clearance at full lock in both directions before proceeding.
8. 8

   Bleed brake system at caliper
   Refill master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder screw on the new caliper and place the other end in a catch bottle with a small amount of clean brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn while pedal is held - fluid and air will flow into the hose. Close the bleeder before pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream (typically 5-10 cycles). Tighten bleeder screw to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) and remove hose. Top off master cylinder reservoir.
   ⚠️Never allow master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding or air will enter the ABS system, requiring specialized equipment to purge.
   ⚠Do not overtighten the bleeder screw as the threads are easily damaged. Use a properly sized flare nut wrench.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
   Clean the hub surface and wheel mounting surface with a wire brush. Reinstall the wheel, threading lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Using a star pattern, snug all lug nuts with a wrench but do not fully torque yet. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not loaded. Using a torque wrench in a star pattern, torque all lug nuts to 156 Nm (115 lb-ft). Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.

Reassembly

1. Verify master cylinder reservoir is filled to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid
2. Check for any brake fluid leaks at the banjo bolt connection and bleeder screw
3. Ensure all tools and parts have been removed from wheel well area
4. Verify wheel lug nuts are properly torqued to 156 Nm (115 lb-ft)

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal multiple times - pedal should become firm and maintain pressure when held
• Inspect for any fluid leaks at caliper connections, particularly the banjo bolt
• Start engine and verify brake pedal height and feel are normal with no excessive travel
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area (parking lot) to verify proper brake operation before road use
• Road test vehicle at gradually increasing speeds, verifying straight-line braking with no pulling to either side
• After 50-100 miles of normal driving, re-check lug nut torque and inspect for any brake fluid leaks
• Check master cylinder fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary

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