suspension
Upper Control Arm - Rear
for 2016 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
12
Steps
13
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear upper control arm on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with independent rear suspension.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands.
⚠The ball joint separator tool can release suddenly. Keep hands and face clear of the tool during separation.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension to prevent premature bushing failure.
ℹ️Mark control arm orientation before removal if reusing for reference during installation.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket (lug nuts)Essential
18mm socket (ball joint nut)Essential
21mm socket (control arm bolts)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Ball joint separator tool or pickle forkEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Rear upper control arm × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket equivalent
- Ball joint nut (if not reusable) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Anti-seize compound × 1 — Nickel-based anti-seize
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support on jack stands placed under frame rails
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Support the rear knuckle assemblyPosition a floor jack under the rear knuckle/hub assembly with a block of wood to protect components. Raise jack just enough to take slight load off the upper control arm but not to lift the vehicle. This prevents the knuckle from dropping when the control arm is disconnected.
- 2Remove upper ball joint nutLocate the upper control arm ball joint connection at the top of the knuckle. Remove the cotter pin if equipped. Using an 18mm socket, remove the ball joint nut completely. Do not reuse the nut if it shows thread damage or deformation.
- 3Separate ball joint from knuckleInstall ball joint separator tool between the control arm and knuckle. Tighten the tool to apply pressure, then strike the knuckle boss area with a hammer to shock the taper loose. Alternatively, use a pickle fork, driving it between the joint surfaces. The ball joint stud will pop free from the knuckle taper.⚠Ball joint separator can release suddenly under tension. Maintain firm grip and keep face clear.
- 4Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front mounting bolt securing the control arm to the frame bracket. This is typically oriented horizontally. Using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, remove the bolt completely. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.
- 5Remove rear control arm mounting boltLocate the rear mounting bolt securing the control arm to the frame bracket. Using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, remove this bolt completely. Support the control arm as the second bolt is removed to prevent it from falling.
- 6Remove upper control armCarefully maneuver the upper control arm away from the mounting brackets and knuckle. Inspect the mounting points on the frame for damage, excessive rust, or deformation. Clean mounting bolt holes with a wire brush.
- 7Prepare new control armInspect the new control arm to ensure ball joint moves freely without binding and bushings are intact. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the mounting bolt threads and the ball joint stud threads. Verify the control arm matches the original in design and mounting points.
- 8Install new control arm to framePosition the new upper control arm into the frame mounting brackets. Insert both front and rear mounting bolts through the bushings and frame brackets. Thread bolts by hand to ensure proper alignment. Do NOT torque these bolts yet - they must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension.
- 9Connect ball joint to knuckleAlign the ball joint stud with the taper in the top of the knuckle. Use the floor jack to raise or lower the knuckle as needed for alignment. Insert the ball joint stud fully into the knuckle taper. Thread the new ball joint nut onto the stud by hand.
- 10Torque ball joint nutUsing a torque wrench and 18mm socket, torque the ball joint nut to specification. Ensure the ball joint stud does not spin during torquing - use an Allen key or second wrench if necessary to hold it. Install new cotter pin if applicable and bend tabs to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut101 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleMount the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern until snug but not fully torqued. Remove the floor jack from under the knuckle. Lower the vehicle until the tires contact the ground but the jack stands still support most of the weight.
- 12Torque control arm mounting boltsWith the vehicle weight now on the suspension (tires on ground, suspension at normal ride height), torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification using a 21mm socket and torque wrench. This is critical - torquing with suspension hanging will cause premature bushing failure.⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued at ride height with vehicle weight on wheels to prevent bushing damage.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Final torque wheel lug nutsFully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands. Using a torque wrench and 19mm socket, torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Perform this in two stages: first to 50% torque, then to full specification.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reassembly is covered in the main procedure steps
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification with vehicle at ride height
- Verify ball joint nut is secured with cotter pin if equipped
Verification
- Verify all bolts are torqued to specification, particularly control arm bolts with vehicle at ride height
- Check that ball joint nut is secure and cotter pin is installed if applicable
- Bounce the rear of the vehicle and listen for any unusual noises from the control arm area
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking or unusual handling
- Schedule 4-wheel alignment within 50 miles - suspension geometry has been altered
- Re-check all fastener torque after 100 miles of driving