3.5L V6 EcoBoostRWDAUTOMATICgasturbo
18 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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brakes

Brake Booster

for 2017 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · RWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
14
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure replaces the brake booster on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost engine, requiring master cylinder removal, vacuum line disconnection, and brake system bleeding.

Warnings

⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL SYSTEM: Brake system failure can result in loss of braking ability, causing serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified professional.
⚠️Do NOT start the engine or attempt to drive the vehicle until brake system is fully reassembled, properly bled, and pedal feel verified. Test brakes in a safe area at low speed before normal operation.
⚠️Brake fluid is highly corrosive to paint and toxic if ingested. Avoid skin contact and immediately flush any spills with water. Keep away from eyes.
This procedure requires working in the cramped area between the firewall and engine. Allow engine to fully cool before beginning work.
The brake pedal pushrod connection inside the cabin requires specific positioning and torque sequence. Verify proper installation per Ford service manual before final assembly.
ℹ️You will need an assistant for brake bleeding unless using a pressure or vacuum bleeder system.

Tools required

Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Socket set (metric, 8mm-19mm)Essential
Combination wrench set (metric)Essential
Brake line flare nut wrench setEssential
Brake fluid catch containerEssential
Brake bleeding kit or vacuum bleederEssential
Flashlight or work lightEssential
Trim removal tools
Turkey baster or fluid transfer pump
Creeper or low stool
Mirror or inspection camera

Parts

  • Brake booster assembly × 1 — Use OEM Ford specification for 3.5L EcoBoost F-150
  • Master cylinder to booster gasket/seal × 1 — Often included with booster
  • Brake booster vacuum hose (if damaged) × 1 — Inspect during removal
  • Brake booster check valve (if damaged) × 1 — Inspect during removal

Fluids

  • Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground, place transmission in Park, engage parking brake, and chock rear wheels
  2. Turn ignition off and remove key. Wait minimum 2 minutes before disconnecting battery
  3. Disconnect negative battery cable to prevent accidental airbag deployment while working near steering column
  4. Open hood and locate brake master cylinder on driver side firewall
  5. Use turkey baster or fluid pump to remove as much brake fluid as possible from master cylinder reservoir to minimize spillage
  6. Place absorbent pads or rags around master cylinder area to catch fluid drips
  7. Locate brake booster vacuum line connection on intake manifold (driver side of engine)
  8. Access vehicle interior and remove driver side lower dash panel/trim to access brake pedal assembly

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove master cylinder from brake booster
    From engine compartment, disconnect brake fluid level sensor electrical connector at master cylinder reservoir. Using flare nut wrenches, carefully loosen all brake line fittings at master cylinder (typically 4 lines). Cap or plug lines immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove two master cylinder mounting nuts. Carefully pull master cylinder forward off booster mounting studs and set aside, supporting brake lines to avoid stress. Do not allow master cylinder to hang by brake lines.
    Use proper flare nut wrenches to avoid rounding off brake line fittings. Rounded fittings may require line replacement.
    Torque spec
    Master Cylinder Nuts25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
  2. 2
    Disconnect vacuum line from brake booster
    Locate the vacuum hose connection at the brake booster (front of booster unit). The vacuum line runs to the intake manifold. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the booster check valve by releasing the retaining clip or twisting gently while pulling. Inspect check valve and hose for cracks or damage; replace if necessary. On some configurations, you may need to disconnect at the intake manifold end first for easier removal.
  3. 3
    Access brake pedal pushrod connection from interior
    From inside the vehicle, locate the brake pedal pushrod connection point at the top of the brake pedal arm. You may need to remove additional lower dash trim for access. Use flashlight to clearly identify the pushrod clevis pin and retaining clip. Take a photo for reference during reassembly. The pushrod connects to the brake pedal with a clevis pin secured by a retaining clip and lock nut.
  4. 4
    Disconnect pushrod from brake pedal
    Remove the retaining clip from the clevis pin connecting the booster pushrod to the brake pedal arm. Using appropriate wrench, loosen the pushrod lock nut while holding the clevis to prevent rotation. Remove the clevis pin and disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal. Note the exact position and orientation of all components for reassembly. The pushrod will now be free from the pedal assembly.
    Torque spec
    Brake Pedal Pushrod Lock15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Remove brake booster mounting nuts
    Return to engine compartment. Locate the four brake booster mounting nuts on the firewall. These are accessed from the engine bay side. Using appropriate socket (typically 13mm or 15mm), remove all four booster mounting nuts. Support the booster from the engine compartment side as you remove the final nuts to prevent it from falling.
    Brake booster is heavy and awkward. Have an assistant support the unit or be prepared to catch it as final nut is removed.
    Torque spec
    Brake Booster Nuts25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Remove brake booster from vehicle
    Carefully pull the brake booster forward and away from the firewall. Maneuver the pushrod through the firewall opening while extracting the booster. This may require rotation and careful angling due to tight clearances with the engine and other components. Once studs clear firewall, lift booster up and out of engine compartment. Inspect firewall opening and mounting surface for damage or corrosion.
  7. 7
    Prepare new brake booster for installation
    Remove new brake booster from packaging and inspect for shipping damage. Install the check valve into the new booster if not pre-installed (transfer from old unit if reusing). Verify pushrod length matches old booster; improper pushrod length will cause brake drag or excessive pedal travel. Install new mounting gasket/seal between booster and master cylinder mounting face if provided separately. Compare new booster to old unit to verify correct application.
    Pushrod length is critical. Some boosters require adjustment. Consult Ford service manual for proper pushrod gauge procedure if length appears different.
  8. 8
    Install new brake booster
    From engine compartment, carefully maneuver new brake booster into position, guiding the pushrod through the firewall opening. Align the four mounting studs with holes in firewall. You may need to reach into the cabin to guide the pushrod through. Once studs are through firewall, hand-thread all four mounting nuts to hold booster in position. Do not fully tighten yet.
  9. 9
    Torque brake booster mounting nuts
    Using torque wrench and appropriate socket, tighten the four brake booster mounting nuts in a cross-pattern sequence to ensure even seating against the firewall. First pass: snug all nuts hand-tight in cross pattern. Second pass: torque to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft) in cross pattern. Final pass: torque to specification of 25 Nm (18 lb-ft) in cross pattern. Verify booster is seated flush against firewall.
    Cross-pattern tightening is critical to prevent booster housing distortion and vacuum leaks.
    Torque spec
    Brake Booster Nuts25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Connect pushrod to brake pedal
    From vehicle interior, align the booster pushrod clevis with the brake pedal arm mounting hole. Insert the clevis pin through the pedal arm and clevis. Install the retaining clip on the clevis pin. Thread the pushrod lock nut onto the clevis threads. While holding the clevis to prevent rotation, torque the lock nut to 15 Nm (11 lb-ft). Verify pushrod moves freely with pedal and there is no binding.
    Torque spec
    Brake Pedal Pushrod Lock15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Connect vacuum line to brake booster
    Attach the vacuum hose to the brake booster check valve. Ensure connection is fully seated and retaining clip (if equipped) is properly engaged. Route vacuum line back to intake manifold connection point, ensuring hose does not contact hot engine components or moving parts. Connect to intake manifold vacuum port and secure with clamp if applicable. Check for kinks or restrictions in vacuum line.
  12. 12
    Install master cylinder
    Ensure new gasket/seal is in place on booster mounting face. Carefully position master cylinder onto the two booster mounting studs, guiding brake lines as needed. Hand-thread both master cylinder mounting nuts. Torque nuts evenly to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Using flare nut wrenches, reconnect all four brake lines to master cylinder ports, ensuring correct line routing. Tighten fittings snugly but do not overtighten (typically 15-18 Nm / 11-13 lb-ft for brake line fittings). Reconnect brake fluid level sensor electrical connector.
    Verify each brake line connects to correct master cylinder port. Front/rear circuits must not be crossed.
    Torque spec
    Master Cylinder Nuts25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Fill and bleed brake system
    Fill master cylinder reservoir with fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid to MAX line. Bleed brake system in proper sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. For each wheel: attach clear hose to bleeder screw and submerge other end in container of clean brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 5-10 times and hold. Open bleeder screw 1/2 to 3/4 turn until fluid/air flows, then close before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear. Torque bleeder screws to 16 Nm (12 lb-ft). Maintain reservoir level above MIN during entire bleeding process.
    ⚠️Never allow master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding or air will enter system requiring complete re-bleed.
    Use only fresh DOT 4 LV brake fluid from sealed container. Contaminated or wrong-specification fluid will damage ABS components.
    Torque spec
    Bleeder Screw16 Nm (12 lb-ft)
  14. 14
    Final system check and test
    With engine off, pump brake pedal several times and verify firm pedal builds up. Pedal should not sink to floor when held under firm pressure. Start engine and verify brake pedal drops slightly as booster vacuum assists (normal). Check all brake line connections and booster area for fluid leaks. Inspect vacuum hose connection for proper seating. Reinstall all interior trim panels removed for access. Reconnect negative battery cable.
    ⚠️Do not proceed to driving if pedal feels spongy, travels too far, or sinks slowly to floor. This indicates air in system or component failure.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall driver side lower dash panels and any removed interior trim
  2. Verify all electrical connections are properly seated
  3. Double-check that all brake line fittings are tight and no leaks are present
  4. Verify master cylinder reservoir is filled to MAX line with DOT 4 LV brake fluid
  5. Ensure no tools or parts remain in engine compartment

Verification

  • With engine off, pump brake pedal 15-20 times. Pedal should build firm resistance and not sink to floor when held under constant pressure for 30 seconds
  • Start engine and verify pedal drops slightly (1-2 inches) as vacuum assist engages, then remains firm
  • Check for any brake fluid leaks at master cylinder, brake lines, and all four wheel bleeder screws
  • Test brakes in a safe area at low speed (5-10 mph) to verify proper operation before normal driving
  • Verify vacuum hose is properly connected and no vacuum leaks are present (check engine should not illuminate)
  • After test drive, recheck master cylinder fluid level and inspect all connections for leaks
  • Confirm brake pedal feel is normal with good assist and proper travel distance (approximately 2-3 inches of travel before firm resistance)
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🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
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