This procedure covers removal and replacement of the front brake caliper on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8, including brake fluid bleeding and torque specifications.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper (left or right as needed) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Brake fluid copper washers (banjo bolt) × 2 — W710144-S300
• Thread locker (blue - medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
• Shop towels × 1 — Generic

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
2. Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
3. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack at designated lift points and secure with jack stands under frame rails
4. Remove wheel and tire assembly completely
5. Clean brake caliper area with brake cleaner spray to remove road debris and corrosion
6. Remove approximately 1/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or fluid transfer pump (prevents overflow during caliper work)
7. Locate brake line banjo bolt on back of caliper and prepare clean workspace for line disconnection

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect brake hydraulic line
   Position brake fluid catch pan under caliper. Using appropriate line wrench, hold banjo bolt steady while loosening. Remove banjo bolt completely and immediately plug brake line opening with clean rubber cap or wrap with plastic to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from banjo bolt and brake line fitting. Cap caliper inlet port to prevent fluid dripping.
   ⚠Brake fluid will immediately begin dripping. Have catch pan positioned and work quickly to cap openings.
2. 2

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back side of the caliper (accessible from behind). These are typically 18mm bolts. Using a socket and ratchet, remove both caliper slide bolts completely. Support caliper weight as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
   ⚠Caliper is heavy (approximately 10-15 lbs). Support it to prevent dropping on rotor or suspension components.
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Carefully lift caliper assembly straight up and off the brake rotor and mounting bracket. If caliper is stuck, gently rock it side to side while pulling upward. Do not pry against rotor surface. Remove old caliper from work area.
4. 4

   Inspect mounting bracket and hardware
   Inspect caliper mounting bracket for cracks, excessive corrosion, or damage. Check that slide pin boots are intact and not torn. Clean slide pin bores with wire brush. Inspect brake rotor surface for scoring or excessive wear. If rotor thickness is at or below minimum specification (typically stamped on rotor), rotor must be replaced.
   ℹ️This is the ideal time to inspect and replace brake pads if needed. Consider replacing pads in axle pairs if worn beyond 3-4mm.
5. 5

   Prepare new caliper
   Remove protective caps from new caliper. Verify new caliper matches old unit (left vs right side, mounting bolt pattern). Check that caliper piston is fully retracted into bore. If piston is extended, use C-clamp to carefully press it inward against inner brake pad backing plate. Apply thin coat of brake caliper grease to slide pin contact points if servicing pins.
6. 6

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position new caliper over brake rotor and align with mounting bracket slide pin holes. Ensure brake pads (if reusing) are properly seated in caliper bracket. Slide caliper down fully onto bracket, ensuring slide pins engage properly into bracket bores.
7. 7

   Install and torque caliper mounting bolts
   Apply blue thread locker to caliper slide bolt threads per manufacturer instruction. Insert both caliper slide bolts and hand tighten. Using torque wrench, tighten caliper slide bolts to specification in alternating pattern (one bolt, then the other, then back to first). Verify both bolts are fully seated and torqued correctly.
   ⚠Thread locker requires proper cure time. Follow product instructions for set time before driving vehicle.
8. 8

   Connect brake hydraulic line
   Install new copper crush washers onto banjo bolt (one washer on each side of brake line fitting). Position brake line banjo fitting onto caliper inlet port, ensuring proper alignment. Insert banjo bolt through fitting and thread into caliper by hand. Using line wrench and torque wrench, tighten banjo bolt to specification. Do not overtighten.
   ⚠️Copper washers must be NEW. Reusing old washers will result in brake fluid leaks and brake system failure.
9. 9

   Bleed brake caliper
   Refill master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Locate bleeder screw on back of caliper (typically 8mm or 10mm). Attach clear tubing to bleeder screw and place other end in catch bottle with small amount of brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open bleeder screw 1/2 turn, allow fluid and air to escape, then close bleeder before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in tubing and fluid runs clear. Tighten bleeder screw to specification.
   ⚠️Monitor master cylinder reservoir constantly during bleeding. Never allow it to run dry or air will enter ABS hydraulic unit.
   ⚠Bleeder screws are brass and easily damaged. Do not overtighten. Use proper size wrench only.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Verify hydraulic system integrity
    Wipe all connections dry with clean shop towel. Inspect banjo bolt connection for any signs of fluid seepage. Have assistant press brake pedal firmly and hold for 30 seconds while you inspect all connections. Pedal should remain firm and not slowly sink. Check for leaks at banjo bolt and bleeder screw. If any leaks detected, stop immediately and repair.
    ⚠️Any brake fluid leak is a critical safety issue. Do not drive vehicle if leaks are present.
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and tire
    Clean wheel mounting surface on hub with wire brush. Position wheel onto hub and hand thread all lug nuts. Lower vehicle until tire just contacts ground (prevents wheel spinning). Using torque wrench and star pattern, torque all lug nuts to specification in three stages: first to 50% torque, then 75%, then final 100% torque.
12. 12

    Final brake system check
    Remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line. Pump brake pedal slowly 10-15 times to seat brake pads against rotor. Pedal should become firm. Check brake fluid level again and add if necessary. Start engine and verify brake warning light is not illuminated. Press brake pedal firmly with engine running - pedal should feel firm with normal travel.
    ⚠️If brake pedal feels soft, spongy, or sinks slowly, DO NOT DRIVE vehicle. Air remains in system or leak exists. Re-bleed system or seek professional service.

Reassembly

1. After initial test drive, re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification after 50 miles
2. Check brake fluid level after first drive and top off if needed
3. Bedding process: Make 10-15 light stops from 30 mph to transfer pad material to rotor, then allow brakes to cool completely before aggressive use

Verification

• Brake pedal feels firm and responsive with normal travel (not excessive or spongy)
• No brake fluid leaks visible at caliper banjo bolt, bleeder screw, or master cylinder
• Brake warning light remains off with engine running
• Test vehicle in safe area at low speed: brakes engage smoothly without pulling to one side
• No unusual noises (grinding, squealing beyond normal pad break-in) during brake application
• Perform final test: From 25 mph on dry pavement, apply firm steady brake pressure. Vehicle should stop straight without pulling. If pulling occurs, verify opposite side caliper is functioning or check for suspension issues

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