brakes
Brake Caliper Rebuild - Front
for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
16
Steps
14
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the complete disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and rebuild of the front brake calipers on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 engine using new seals and hardware.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL REPAIR: Brake system failure can result in loss of braking ability, causing severe injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never reuse old brake fluid. Contaminated or old fluid can cause brake failure. Only use Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid as specified by Ford.
⚠️Brake fluid is extremely corrosive to paint and toxic. Avoid skin contact and immediately flush any spills with water. Do not allow brake fluid to contact vehicle paint.
⚠Compressed air can cause piston to eject violently from caliper bore. Always control piston ejection with wood blocks and use low air pressure.
⚠Ensure vehicle is properly supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
ℹ️This procedure requires bleeding the brake system. You will need either a brake bleeding kit or an assistant to pump the brake pedal.
ℹ️Work on one caliper at a time to maintain a reference for reassembly and to keep one side of the brake system closed.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
3/8" drive ratchet and socket set (metric)Essential
C-clamp or brake caliper piston toolEssential
Brake line wrench set (flare nut wrenches)Essential
Brake caliper rebuild kit compatible with Ford F-150 front calipersEssential
Compressed air source with air nozzleEssential
Clean lint-free ragsEssential
Brake parts cleanerEssential
Brake fluid catch containerEssential
Plastic or brass pick set (for seal removal)Essential
Rubber gloves (chemical resistant)
Wire brush (brass preferred)
Brake bleeding kit or helperEssential
Threadlocker (medium strength)Essential
Silicone brake caliper greaseEssential
Parts
- Front brake caliper rebuild kit (seals, dust boots, O-rings) × 2 — Use OEM specification - Ford Motorcraft or equivalent
- Brake fluid × 1 — Motorcraft DOT 4 LV
- Caliper slide pin boots and hardware kit × 2 — Often included in rebuild kit
- Copper crush washers for brake line banjo bolts × 2 — Use OEM specification
Fluids
- Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands positioned at factory lift points on frame
- Remove front wheels completely
- Verify adequate workspace and lighting for detailed rebuild work
- Open brake fluid reservoir and check fluid level - mark current level for reference
- Place absorbent material and drain pan under work area to catch brake fluid spills
- Have all rebuild kit components unpacked and inspected before beginning disassembly
Procedure
- 1Remove caliper from vehicleUsing a brake line wrench, loosen the brake line banjo bolt at the caliper inlet while holding a catch container beneath to capture brake fluid. Remove the banjo bolt completely and immediately plug the brake line with a rubber cap or clean rag to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using appropriate socket. Lift caliper assembly away from rotor and brake pads. Note the position of brake pads and hardware for reference.Torque specLine Fittings26 Nm (19 lb-ft)
- 2Remove caliper bracket (if rebuilding includes bracket service)Remove the two caliper bracket mounting bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are large bolts requiring significant torque to remove. Use penetrating oil if needed. Remove bracket and set aside for cleaning. If bracket slide pins show wear or corrosion, they should be cleaned and re-greased or replaced.Torque specBracket Bolts127 Nm (94 lb-ft)
- 3Remove piston from caliper bodyPlace several clean rags or a wood block inside the caliper to catch the piston. Apply low-pressure compressed air (20-30 PSI maximum) to the brake fluid inlet port on the caliper. The piston will slowly eject - keep fingers clear and control ejection with the wood block. If piston is seized, tap caliper body gently with plastic mallet while applying air pressure. Once piston begins moving, remove air and extract piston by hand if possible. Never place fingers in front of piston during air ejection.⚠️Keep hands and fingers away from piston path. Use wood block to control piston ejection. Excessive air pressure can cause violent piston ejection resulting in serious injury.
- 4Remove piston seal and dust bootRemove the outer dust boot from the caliper bore groove using a plastic or brass pick - avoid scratching the bore. Carefully pry out the square-cut piston seal from its groove inside the caliper bore using a plastic pick. Never use metal tools that could scratch or gouge the precision bore surface. Inspect the bore carefully for any scoring, pitting, or corrosion. Minor staining is acceptable, but any scratches or pits deeper than 0.001 inch require caliper replacement.⚠Do not use metal tools on caliper bore. Any scratches or gouges in the bore will cause seal failure and brake fluid leaks.
- 5Clean and inspect caliper componentsThoroughly clean the caliper bore, piston, and all caliper passages using brake parts cleaner and lint-free rags. Clean the brake fluid inlet port and bleeder screw threads. Remove the bleeder screw and clean thoroughly - replace if damaged or corroded. Inspect piston for chrome plating damage, corrosion, scoring, or pitting. Any piston damage requires replacement. Inspect caliper bore for corrosion or scoring - bore must be smooth and free of defects. Clean caliper bracket and slide pins thoroughly with wire brush and brake cleaner.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 6Lubricate and install new piston sealCoat the new square-cut piston seal from the rebuild kit with clean DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Carefully install the seal into its groove in the caliper bore, ensuring it seats completely around the entire circumference without twisting. The seal must sit flat in the groove with no raised sections. Coat the caliper bore with clean brake fluid.ℹ️Use only clean brake fluid from a sealed container for lubrication. Never reuse old brake fluid or use petroleum-based lubricants on brake seals.
- 7Install piston and dust bootCoat the new piston (or cleaned original if in perfect condition) completely with clean DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Carefully insert the piston into the caliper bore, ensuring it enters straight without cocking to one side. Push piston in by hand until it contacts the seal. Install the new dust boot into the groove on the piston first, then carefully seat the outer edge of the boot into the caliper body groove. Ensure boot is properly seated all the way around. Push piston fully into bore - it should move smoothly with moderate hand pressure.⚠Piston must enter bore perfectly straight. Cocking the piston can damage the seal or bore. If resistance is felt, remove piston and restart.
- 8Service caliper slide pins and bracketRemove slide pins from caliper bracket. Clean pins thoroughly with brake cleaner and inspect for wear, corrosion, or damage. Inspect slide pin boots for tears or deterioration - replace if damaged. Clean slide pin bores in bracket. Apply thin coat of silicone brake caliper grease to slide pins (not petroleum grease). Install new slide pin boots if included in kit. Insert pins into bracket and verify smooth movement. Apply silicone brake grease to bracket contact points where pads slide.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 9Reinstall caliper bracket to knucklePosition caliper bracket onto steering knuckle. Install both bracket mounting bolts and hand-tighten. Apply threadlocker to bracket bolt threads as recommended. Using torque wrench, tighten bracket bolts to specification in a cross pattern. Verify bracket is secure and properly seated against knuckle mounting surface.Torque specBracket Bolts127 Nm (94 lb-ft)
- 10Install brake pads and caliper assemblyInstall brake pad anti-rattle clips and hardware onto bracket if removed. Install inner and outer brake pads into bracket, ensuring they are properly positioned in the hardware. Position rebuilt caliper over brake pads and align slide pin holes. Install slide pin bolts with silicone brake grease on bolt threads and torque to specification. Caliper should move smoothly on slide pins.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 11Reconnect brake lineRemove plug from brake line. Install new copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolt fitting (never reuse old washers). Position brake line banjo fitting onto caliper inlet port. Install banjo bolt with new washers and hand-tighten. Using brake line wrench and torque wrench, tighten banjo bolt to specification. Do not overtighten as this can damage the fitting.⚠Always use new copper crush washers. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks and system failure.Torque specLine Fittings26 Nm (19 lb-ft)
- 12Bleed brake caliperFill brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Attach clear hose to bleeder screw and place other end in container with small amount of brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 5-10 times and hold pressure. Open bleeder screw 1/4 turn while pedal is held down - fluid and air will discharge. Close bleeder before pedal reaches floor. Repeat process until no air bubbles appear in discharge fluid and pedal feels firm. Tighten bleeder screw to specification on final closure. Top off reservoir to MAX line.⚠️Never allow brake fluid reservoir to run dry during bleeding. Air entering the system can require complete system bleeding and may reach ABS module.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 13Repeat procedure for opposite sidePerform steps 1-12 for the opposite front caliper. Working on one caliper at a time ensures you maintain brake system integrity and have a reference for proper assembly. After both calipers are rebuilt, check brake fluid level and top off to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 LV fluid.ℹ️Complete one full caliper rebuild before starting the second side to maintain system reference and minimize brake system open time.
- 14Reinstall wheels and perform final checksReinstall front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in star pattern. Lower vehicle to ground. Torque wheel lug nuts to specification in star pattern using torque wrench. Pump brake pedal slowly until firm resistance is felt - pedal should not sink to floor. Check all brake line connections and caliper areas for any signs of brake fluid leakage. Inspect brake fluid reservoir level and top off if needed.⚠️Do not drive vehicle until brake pedal is firm and all brake fluid leaks are corrected. A soft pedal indicates air in system or brake failure.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all caliper bolts are torqued to proper specification with appropriate threadlocker or grease as specified
- Verify brake fluid level is at MAX line in reservoir using only fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid
- Check that all brake line connections are tight and show no signs of leakage
- Confirm brake pedal feels firm and does not sink when constant pressure is applied
- Verify wheel lug nuts are torqued in proper star pattern to specification
Verification
- With engine off, pump brake pedal multiple times - pedal should become firm and maintain height without sinking
- Start engine and verify brake pedal height remains consistent with increased pedal assist
- Inspect all caliper mounting points, slide pins, and brake line connections for any signs of fluid leakage
- Check brake fluid reservoir level - should be at MAX line with no signs of aeration or bubbles in fluid
- Perform low-speed test drive in safe area - brakes should apply smoothly and evenly without pulling to either side
- After test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks and verify brake pedal remains firm
- Check wheel lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving
- Monitor brake performance over next several days - any soft pedal, pulling, or unusual noises require immediate inspection