engine
Exhaust Manifold
for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.9 h
Tools
11
Steps
14
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers removal and replacement of exhaust manifolds on the 5.0L Coyote V8 engine, including removal of heat shields, oxygen sensors, and associated hardware.
Warnings
⚠️Allow engine and exhaust system to cool completely before starting work. Exhaust components can cause severe burns for hours after engine shutdown.
⚠️Exhaust studs are extremely prone to breaking on this engine. Apply penetrating oil 24 hours before work and work carefully. Broken studs require cylinder head removal or specialized extraction.
⚠Work in a well-ventilated area. Old exhaust gaskets may contain asbestos-like fibers.
ℹ️This procedure assumes replacement of one or both manifolds. Left side (driver) is more accessible than right side (passenger).
Tools required
Torque wrench (10-70 Nm range)Essential
Oxygen sensor socketEssential
Socket set (metric, 8mm-19mm)Essential
Penetrating oilEssential
Anti-seize compoundEssential
Jack and jack standsEssential
Gasket scraper (plastic or brass)Essential
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Parts
- Exhaust manifold gasket set (left and/or right) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust manifold studs (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust flange gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Heat shield gaskets (if equipped) × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Ensure engine is completely cold (wait at least 4 hours after last operation)
- Apply penetrating oil to all exhaust manifold nuts, exhaust flange bolts, and oxygen sensor threads. Allow to soak for several hours or overnight if possible
- Disconnect negative battery terminal
- Raise and support vehicle on jack stands at appropriate lift points
- Remove engine cover by pulling upward on cover (press-fit clips)
- Take photos of oxygen sensor wiring routing and heat shield positions for reference during reassembly
Procedure
- 1Remove oxygen sensorsDisconnect oxygen sensor electrical connectors on the manifold(s) being serviced. Using an oxygen sensor socket, carefully remove the upstream oxygen sensor(s) from the exhaust manifold. If sensors are seized, apply additional penetrating oil and allow to soak, then use moderate heat from a heat gun (not torch) to aid removal. Inspect sensor threads and replace if damaged.⚠Do not force oxygen sensors. These are expensive components that break easily. If severely corroded, budget for replacement sensors.Torque specO2 Sensor59 Nm (44 lb-ft)
- 2Remove heat shieldsRemove heat shield bolts securing the exhaust manifold heat shields. There are typically multiple shields per manifold with varying bolt locations. On the right side, some bolts may require removal from underneath the vehicle. Keep track of shield positions and hardware as they are not always identical.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 3Disconnect exhaust pipes from manifoldsFrom underneath the vehicle, spray exhaust flange bolts with additional penetrating oil. Remove the exhaust flange bolts connecting the exhaust pipes to the manifold outlets. Support the exhaust pipe with a jack or wire to prevent strain on hangers. Remove and discard old flange gaskets.⚠These bolts are often severely corroded. Use a six-point socket and steady pressure. Have replacement bolts available in case of breakage.Torque specExhaust Flange Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- 4Remove accessory components (right side only)If servicing the right (passenger side) manifold, additional clearance is required. Remove the engine oil dipstick tube mounting bolt and reposition the tube. Disconnect any wiring harness brackets attached to the manifold area. On some configurations, the starter motor heat shield may need to be loosened or removed for access.Torque specMounting Bolts60 Nm (44 lb-ft)
- 5Remove exhaust manifold nutsWorking from the top of the engine, carefully remove the exhaust manifold nuts in reverse sequence (cold-to-hot pattern, starting from the outer ends toward the center). There are typically 8 nuts per manifold on the 5.0L Coyote. Apply gentle rocking pressure while removing to avoid breaking studs. If a nut is frozen, apply penetrating oil and heat, then retry.⚠️This is the most critical step. Broken studs will significantly increase repair time and cost. Work slowly and methodically. If a stud breaks, stop and assess extraction options before proceeding.Torque specExhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 6Remove exhaust manifoldCarefully lift the exhaust manifold away from the cylinder head. It may require gentle rocking to break the gasket seal. On the right side, maneuvering clearance is tight—angle the manifold toward the fender well to clear the oil dipstick tube and starter. Inspect all studs remaining in the cylinder head for damage.
- 7Clean gasket surfacesUsing a plastic or brass gasket scraper, carefully remove all old gasket material from the cylinder head mating surface and exhaust manifold face. Do not gouge the aluminum cylinder head surface. Use a wire brush on the manifold studs to clean threads. Clean surfaces with brake cleaner and inspect for cracks or damage. Check manifold face for warpage using a straightedge—replace if warped beyond specification.⚠Do not use aggressive metal scrapers on the aluminum cylinder head. Damage to the sealing surface will cause exhaust leaks.Torque specGasket Surface Bolts26 Nm (19 lb-ft)
- 8Install new manifold gasketsPosition new exhaust manifold gaskets onto the cylinder head studs. Ensure gaskets are oriented correctly with any alignment tabs or markings facing upward. Gaskets should sit flat against the head surface without gaps or folds.
- 9Install exhaust manifoldApply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the exposed threads of the manifold studs (avoid getting anti-seize on the gasket sealing surface). Carefully position the exhaust manifold onto the studs and gasket. Start all manifold nuts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement and prevent cross-threading.
- 10Torque exhaust manifold nutsUsing a torque wrench, tighten the exhaust manifold nuts in the proper sequence (hot-to-cold pattern, typically starting from center runners and working outward). Consult the Ford service manual for the exact tightening sequence diagram for this engine. Torque all nuts to specification in two stages: first to 15 Nm (11 lb-ft), then to final specification of 30 Nm (22 lb-ft).⚠Proper torque sequence is critical to prevent manifold warpage and exhaust leaks. Verify sequence with Ford service manual before proceeding.Torque specExhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall heat shieldsPosition heat shields in their original locations (reference photos taken during disassembly). Install heat shield bolts and torque to specification. Ensure shields do not contact or rub against any wiring harnesses or hoses.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 12Reconnect exhaust pipesInstall new exhaust flange gaskets at the manifold-to-pipe connection. Position exhaust pipes to manifold outlets and start flange bolts by hand. Apply anti-seize compound to bolt threads. Torque exhaust flange bolts to specification following any sequence requirements in the service manual.Torque specExhaust Flange Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- 13Install oxygen sensorsApply anti-seize compound to oxygen sensor threads (some sensors come pre-treated—check manufacturer instructions). Thread oxygen sensors into manifold ports by hand to avoid cross-threading. Torque to specification using oxygen sensor socket. Reconnect oxygen sensor electrical connectors ensuring positive retention and proper routing away from hot exhaust components.Torque specO2 Sensor59 Nm (44 lb-ft)
- 14Reinstall accessory componentsIf right side manifold was serviced, reinstall oil dipstick tube mounting bolt, starter heat shield, and any wiring harness brackets that were removed. Ensure all components are secure and properly positioned. Reinstall engine cover by aligning clips and pressing firmly until seated.Torque specMounting Bolts60 Nm (44 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Double-check all fasteners are torqued to specification and no tools or parts were left in the engine bay
- Reconnect negative battery terminal
- Lower vehicle from jack stands
Verification
- Start engine and allow to idle. Listen for any exhaust leaks at manifold-to-head and manifold-to-pipe joints
- Visually inspect all connections for smoke or exhaust gas escape
- Allow engine to reach operating temperature and verify no leaks develop under thermal expansion
- Check for proper oxygen sensor operation—verify no check engine lights or sensor codes are present using scan tool
- After initial heat cycle, re-torque exhaust manifold nuts when engine is cold (within 24 hours). This is not always required but recommended given the critical nature of the connection
- Perform a test drive and verify normal exhaust sound with no ticking or hissing noises
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0013Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1P0014Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Bank 1P0023Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 2P0024Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Bank 2P0105Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO CircuitP0400Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) FlowP1518Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck ClosedP1537Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 1)P2004Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1P2005Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 2P2014Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Bank 1P2015Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Range/Performance Bank 1
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