Brake Caliper - Rear

Replace the rear brake caliper on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8, including brake fluid bleeding and system verification.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper (left or right as needed) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Brake pads (if not included with caliper) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Caliper slide pin boots (inspect and replace if damaged) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground, place transmission in Park, and engage parking brake firmly.
2. Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks on both sides.
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground.
4. Lift rear of vehicle using floor jack at proper jacking points and support with jack stands rated for vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
5. Remove rear wheel completely.
6. Using a turkey baster or fluid pump, remove approximately half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons.
7. Have a drain pan ready to catch brake fluid during caliper removal.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support and disconnect brake caliper
   Before loosening brake line, use a bungee cord or safety wire to support the caliper weight once removed. Clean the area around the brake line banjo bolt connection at the caliper with brake cleaner to prevent contamination. Place a drain pan beneath the caliper to catch brake fluid.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake line from caliper
   Using a line wrench (flare nut wrench), carefully loosen and remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake line to the caliper. Brake fluid will drain out. Remove and discard the copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting - these must be replaced with new washers. Immediately plug the brake line end with a rubber cap or clean lint-free cloth to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper (typically 18mm). Remove both caliper bolts completely. If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak, then use a breaker bar for additional leverage. Do not force to avoid stripping threads in the bracket.
4. 4

   Remove old caliper
   Carefully slide the old caliper off the rotor and brake pads. If caliper is stuck, gently tap with a rubber mallet. Inspect the brake pads for uneven wear patterns which may indicate other issues. Remove brake pads from the caliper bracket and inspect hardware.
5. 5

   Inspect and clean caliper bracket
   Inspect the caliper bracket for cracks, excessive rust, or damage. Use a wire brush to clean the brake pad slide surfaces on the bracket. Clean any rust or debris from the caliper mounting bolt holes. Inspect the caliper slide pin boots for tears or damage - replace if compromised. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the pad slide areas (not on friction surfaces).
6. 6

   Prepare new caliper
   Unpack the new caliper and verify it matches the old unit (left vs right side specific). Check that the bleeder screw moves freely - crack it open slightly then retighten to verify. If installing a loaded caliper with pads, verify pads are properly seated. If pads are separate, install them into the bracket with any anti-rattle clips or hardware.
7. 7

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and pads, aligning the mounting bolt holes with the bracket. Apply medium-strength thread locker to the threads of both caliper mounting bolts as specified. Thread both bolts in by hand first to ensure proper alignment and prevent cross-threading.
8. 8

   Torque caliper mounting bolts
   Using a torque wrench, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 110 Nm (81 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern. Verify both bolts are fully torqued. Double-check that the caliper moves freely on the slide pins and is properly centered over the rotor.
9. 9

   Reconnect brake line
   Remove the plug from the brake line. Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting (one against the caliper body, one under the banjo bolt head). Position the brake line banjo fitting onto the caliper port, ensuring proper alignment. Thread the banjo bolt in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Torque brake line banjo bolt
    Using a line wrench and torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Do not overtighten as this can damage the copper washers and cause leaks. Verify the brake line is properly seated and not kinked or twisted.
    Torque spec

    Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Bleed rear brake caliper
    Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Attach clear tubing to the bleeder screw with the other end submerged in clean brake fluid in a catch bottle. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 turn - fluid and air will exit. Close bleeder before pedal reaches the floor. Repeat until fluid flows clear without air bubbles (typically 5-10 repetitions). Monitor master cylinder level constantly and refill as needed - never let it go below MIN.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final bleeder torque and inspection
    With bleeder screw closed, torque to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) - do not overtighque as bleeder screws are easily damaged. Wipe all brake fluid from the caliper and surrounding areas. Inspect the banjo bolt connection for any signs of leakage. Top off master cylinder reservoir to MAX line.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel
    Clean the wheel hub surface and wheel mounting surface. Reinstall the wheel, threading lug nuts by hand first. Using a torque wrench, tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to 169 Nm (125 lb-ft). Do not use an impact wrench for final torque.

Reassembly

1. Lower vehicle from jack stands carefully, ensuring stability.
2. With vehicle still elevated on jack but wheels on ground, re-torque wheel lug nuts to 169 Nm (125 lb-ft) in star pattern to ensure proper seating.
3. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack.
4. Before starting engine, pump brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until pedal feels firm. Pedal should not sink to the floor.
5. Check master cylinder fluid level and top off if needed with DOT 4 LV fluid.
6. Start engine and pump brakes again - pedal should remain firm with engine running.

Verification

• With engine running, apply firm brake pressure for 30 seconds - pedal should not slowly sink, indicating no internal leaks.
• Visually inspect the new caliper and banjo bolt connection for any brake fluid leaks. Check underneath vehicle and around the caliper.
• Check master cylinder reservoir level - it should be at MAX line.
• Test drive vehicle in a safe area at low speed (under 10 mph) to verify brakes engage properly and vehicle stops straight without pulling.
• After test drive, perform final visual inspection of caliper, brake line connections, and check for fluid leaks. Also verify no fluid on the ground under vehicle.
• Re-check and re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
• Monitor brake pedal feel for the first few days of driving. If pedal becomes soft or spongy, air may be in the system requiring re-bleeding.

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